importeclipsegst

ok i have a 2000 civic turbo that keeps blowing the 15amp ecu fuse underneathe the hood(fuse44). so i unhooked tthe s-afc and put a fuse in it and it blew, i unplugged the profec b, and it blew again, then i unplugged the turbo timer and with the same resluts, and when i mean unplug i mean unwire everything. after that i disconnected the entire engine harness from all the motor and it didnt blow, so i start to put the harness back on a sensor at a time and the all went to and didnt blow until i plugged in the drivers side of the main harness that is right by the master brake cylinder, so i went to the fuel pump and unlpugged it and when went back underneath the hood to plug in the drivers side harness it popped again so i dont think its the fuel pump. so i proceeded to check the main realy on the passager side behind the glove box, so i took it out and then plugged in the drivers side harness and it did not blow so i thought it was the main realy but i purchased another one from honda thinking it was the problem but it wasnt, now im lost....can anyone help me or has had this problem before?

perseverance

ur on the right track. i'd get a dmm(digital multimeter) and check all the wires for continuity. I'm sure that one of ur supposedly 12v constant(hot wires) has a short..(aka ground) in it. So just check continuity with ground to one of those hot wires and i'm sure you'll find the problem. If u dunno how to use a dmm... ask someone in radioshack. it's a great tool.. i use it everyday at work.

importeclipsegst

yea ill try that next, just need to find a wiring diagram to see which ones are the hot wires and where they go on the ecu so if anyone knows where i can get one let me know

importeclipsegst

how would you check for continuity if the ecu fuse keeps blowing and stoping the 12v signal thru the wires?

viahiptop

its a white/black wire. runs to your main relay from fuse 44 which is behind your under-hood fuse box

Blk00EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importeclipsegst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how would you check for continuity if the ecu fuse keeps blowing and stoping the 12v signal thru the wires?</TD></TR></TABLE>

check continuity with resistance, not voltage. if there is continuity, there should be ~0 ohms of resistance. no continuity = infinite ohms. you can do this without a power source of any kind.

importeclipsegst

ok, ill check on that after i get off from work. thanks so far for all the help

EE_Chris

Now you need a meter. Good luck - it looks like you've done a decent job so far.

perseverance

or get a dmm that beeps when there's continuity. i use it everyday at work... literally. sometimes i have to check 20 fuses in an individual car to find the problem and the beep helps a shitload.

importeclipsegst

ok so i bought a Actron digital multimeter and Engine Analizer from discount autoparts for a mere 53 bucks.... and by the image that EE_Chris posted the fuse 44 is the one that is always blowing.... im thinking i dont have to worry about the injector relay cause the diagram says for D16b5 motors and i have a B16a2 motor.. and it says the only thing its connected to is the main relay(white/blk wire) i checked continuity by placing the black probe into the relay harness and the red one into the fuse holder.....when i inserted the red probe into one side of the fuse holder it beeps, and when inserted to the other side, it does not beep. i even went to the extreme of pulling out the fuse box underneath the hood itself and unplugged the harness and noticed that there is 2 of the identical wires(white/blk) in the fuse box itself, and once again i checked it again and one wire beeped....the other did not. if it beeps does that mean thats the wire that is shorted? or does no beep mean that is the one is bad? im almost to the point if putting a paper clip into the fuse and seeing what burns up....lol

importeclipsegst

also can anyone link the diagram that the main relay controls since im already on my 3rd new relay...so im pretty much saying that that isnt the problem...although it might be something the realy controls that might be shorted as well.


and once again, i appreciate all the help thus far

importeclipsegst

id also like to know where the diagram was downloaded from if possible, that would help alot

EE_Chris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importeclipsegst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also can anyone link the diagram that the main relay controls</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is what's shown.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importeclipsegst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id also like to know where the diagram was downloaded from if possible, that would help alot</TD></TR></TABLE>

I scanned those pics from the Helms ETM sitting in my office.

importeclipsegst

ok so i tested the car by removing the main relay and taking a wire straight from the battery to power the accessorys tthat the main relay usually powers up to see if i can pin point where the short was at, i first started with the white/blue wire which is connected to the starter and the motor turned over without any problems. i then put the wire directly to yellow/green wire and the fuel pump kicked on without any problems, then i noticed there is 2 yellow/green wires, the one that turned on the fuel pump, the other did nothing. then there is a green/yellow wire that i put power to and it turned on the radio and all the interior accessories, and nothing bad happened. there was 3 wires left.....the white/black wire which is directly connected to the fuse underneathe the hood(according to EF_Chris schematic) and black wire(which according to schematic is a ground wire) and a yellow/black wire, which when touched by the power wire it does a pretty little spark(which according to the schematics is to the injector, tell me if im wrong)so i dont know if that is a ground wire or my problem wire.....but i called my friend who is an avid honda fanatic and he told me to place the red probe on the postive side of the battery and the black probe on the wire in question and if it shows the battery voltage, that means its possibly a ground wire, well i tried it and it did show me 12.5 volts, so out of curiosty i also tried the green/yellow, yellow/green, and white/blue wire and they all showed me the same 12.5 volts, like there where all grounds???? is that possible?? even after i check them individually and they all worked without creating a spark.

EK FLY

I had that same problem
melted 3 of my main relay wires
turn out to be one of the wires of the o2 sensor melted in the pipe and it was making ground
so check for a + wire touching your chassis

importeclipsegst

i inspeced the ecu harness that goes thru the firewall and converts into the engine harness and i saw no breaks in any of the wires, so i then proceeded to remove the flume around the main relay wires and so cuts/breaks in the wires there also, i also checked my secondary o2 sensore wiring and i did see a break on the white wire of the 4 wire o2 sensor, so i went into the car and unplugged the o2 sensor from the harness where the plug is(on the floor underneathe the carpet, behind the shifter. as far as i could peel back the wire flume those wires seem to be intact. so i tried it again and it lew the fuse, so i unplugged the primary o2 sensor as well and it blew the fuse as well. i was thinking of actually cutting the wires one by one of the main realy one at a time and putting fuses in to see at which wire it wouldnt blow the fuse to help pin point my problem...should i do it? or will it harm anything else.

importeclipsegst

also Superhatch, where did ur o2 sensor burn up at and where in the wiring harness was the main realy wires melted together so i can check on my car.