travbrack

Hi. I assure you I've searched endlessly for solutions to my problem. I have a 95 dx civic with a d15b7. Everyone says "Get the Honda crank pulley bolt remover" but it does NOT fit in my pulley.

The tool fits into a pulley with a hex-shaped hole but mine is circular. I had a friend slam on the brakes with the car in 5th gear and hit it with an electric impact for a few seconds several times with no luck. I know this is the 15 millionth crank pulley bolt thread. Sorry. But please help.

famous323

iTrader: (9)

Use a strap wrench with a pipe wedged to the end of the straP wrench put a block under the strap wrench, and lower the car so the strap wrench and block gets nice and snug and get a breaker bar knock off the crank pulley bolt.

S1LENT94D00R

I had a very similar problem. I used a chain vise grip (unsure on actual name) and turned the motor over until it hit the lca. then I removed my front bumper and windshield washer fluid reservoir and broke it look with a break over bar by stepping on it. Hope it helps you out.

Boosted_01 R

Heat is your best friend.........a propane torch will work.... heat for a good 5 to 10 min and use the impact on it for about 30 seconds and reheat for 1-2 min till it comes loose.... works every time....... you will still need it to be in gear, and on the brakes still.... GL

axis11

Is your crank pulley like this.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/po...dWxsZXk=&text=

You can fabricate an F-shape tool so that the two pins insert on two of the holes. Let it touch the ground same as you would do on the hex tool. The breaker bar will do the rest.

fragmare

When I did mine I didn't have any luck with a 1/2" drive breaker bar, cheater bar, or even a 1/2" drive air impact wrench. The breaker bar twisted off the extension and the 1/2" drive impact just sat there and hammered for like 15 minutes straight. I had to resort to the blue wrench and a bigger 3/4" drive impact wrench, then it came right off. I can't remember what I wedged in there to keep it from moving, but do I specifically remember not having to use any special tool to hold it in place, though.

I'm about to have round 2 with it in just about 5000 miles... that's when the belt is due for a change. I'm considering not even screwing around with it, as I don't even own any air tools now. I'll probably just drive it 400 yards to the auto shop on the corner, have them break the bolt loose and retorque to 134lb-ft then take it home and get it off with with a breaker bar. I can handle 134lb-ft with ease, but I don't feel like breaking more tools with whatever ungodly torque that bolt gets itself to after 90,000 miles of driving...

I would recommend hitting the thing with some Liquid Wrench or Aero Kroil or even some Acetone + ATF (mixed 50/50) and letting it sit overnight. It'll likely make it significantly easier to get off.

repairman655

Take a spark plug out, rotate the piston of that hole to the bottom of its stroke and feed rope down in the cylinder as much as you can with still enough to retrieve it later. Then turn the engine until it locks against the rope. Easy as cake, came from a Chrysler service manual from back in the day.

repairman655

^Turn the engine by hand..of course...

d15bvtechatch

iTrader: (2)

Holy sh*t ive never hear of anything like that... That's craYYY

fragmare

I've heard that before somewhere, but damn, I'd be kind of nervous about smashing the valves up into the seat or face surface too hard and damaging them or something.

EJ8_Man

And put an excess 200-300+ ft/lb torque on the piston/rod/crank? I think this will either lead to success or utter disaster. I would not do it

strategy400

I have a 1995 D15B7.

I used a piece of angle iron bolted to the crank pulley and sitting on the ground. The angle iron wedges up against a small diameter deep socket I found that fits perfectly in one of the pulley holes. I recommend the socket or you'll screw up your belt. Angle iron has to be square snugged up against the pulley though or it will just distort and bend. I sprayed with WD-40 and let sit, put the jack/wood under the breaker bar for square leverage/torque. One good grunt/shove on the breaker and "ping!" it broke loose.

CFiannotti

^ Sticky THAT image series!