LiL_Shaun

Hey im going to start building up my sohc and im going to be using this cam...i know it can run fine with the stock valvetrain but i might just upgrade the springs/retainers while im at it...but anyways once i put this cam in...will i need additional tuning? or will it basically just plug and play just fine

on a side note: if i do decide to upgrade my springs/retainers will i need to do anything else to the head? or can i take the cam/springs/retainers to a engine shop and be like "put this in my car"

Archidictus

1.) yes, you will need to tune the cam to get good power out of it and

2.) no, you don't need to do anything special to the head beyond telling them to "put this part in".

LiL_Shaun

what do you suggest tuning it with? im obd2 and i live in cali so would an afc be the only option?

LiL_Shaun

bizzump

Chim Chim

What year is your car?

turbociviccoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chim Chim &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What year is your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said obd2 so 96+up

to op...convert to obd1 and tune on crome...you wont be disappointed

Chim Chim

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbociviccoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he said obd2 so 96+up

to op...convert to obd1 and tune on crome...you wont be disappointed </TD></TR></TABLE>

We have smog here in cali and if you read OP's second post, they are probably concerned about:

1) either trying to stay obd2
and/or
2) concerned about smog...

96-98 = obd2a
99-00 = obd2b

So again, what year?

There are a couple companies in socal that can burn roms for obd2a...

If neither option fits the bill, I don't see anything wrong with SAFC tuning, even though HT-ers seem to SAFC tuning for whatever the reason...


Modified by Chim Chim at 3:19 AM 2/22/2007

GarageAlchemist

what kind of intake/exhaust do you have? if your doing a cam, you really want to make sure that cam is being used. I'd atleast make sure your valve seats where in good condition, maybe a port job.. larger intake and tb so that cam has the air

LiL_Shaun

its a 99 civic...d16y8 obd2b i believe

aem intake, dc 4-1 header, apexi ws2 exhaust

ide like to stay obd 2...but my car isnt registered in cali so i dont have to do emissions, i guess i can just switch to obd1...would hondata be my best option? s300? how much is it to tune usually?

edit: im also planning to go with the edelbrock kit in the future so im not really thinkin about a new tb just yet since imma be switching out the entire im

Chim Chim

S300 is a good chunk of change... I believe they start at $600... Since you have out of state tags, obd1 conversion with chrome or uberdata would be a lot cheaper if staying obd2 is not a concern...

As far as edelbrok is concerned, are you looking at doing just a mani swap or their full turbo kit?

LiL_Shaun

full turbo kit...so the s300 isnt worth it? i dont know much about crome/uberdate but ill read up on it a little bit. Does the cam/springs/retainers have to be professionally installed? i have a friend whos a mechanic and i was gonna ask if he can put them in for me. Also, once they ARE on...i know i need to tune it...would it still be able to run even w/o the tuning? will i be able to drive it to the shop to get it tuned? or have to tow it...

GarageAlchemist

yes, you have to convert to obd1, get a p28, chiped/socketed with a datalogger cable, base p28 bin, installing cams/valvetrain is actualy really simple. If you really like this as a hobby take the time to do some reading, invest in knowledge.

DO IT YOURSELF.

then make sure your car is in top shape, no bullshit before you get it tuned like lose battery cables, engine codes, etc.. then tow it over and get it tuned.


also, make sure you really look into whos tunning your car. I can honestly say 50% or more "tuners" are dumb as cake and icecream

Chim Chim

If you're looking to get the full turbo kit, they have a smog compliant version that comes with it's own black box to drive the secondary injectors. That's another option if you plan on sticking to the preset boost level.

The full race (open track) version comes without the secondary injector bosses tapped and without a tuning solution.

Figure out which version you're going with, research it, and go from there before you end up spending more than you have to...

LiL_Shaun

oh yea i knew about the two kits...the whole turbo process is still way in the future though, ide like to build up my single a good amount that way when i slap the turbo on it would hold like a rock. Im also probly going to be moving to arizona where the emissions are alot less strict than they are here in cali...so if i go hondata/crome i might just piece together my own kit since i already have some good engine management

but like i said the turbo probly wont come until the block is semi-fully built....im not looking to make alot of power...not at all...its just that this is my daily driver and i need it to get to school so i dont wanna skip any steps and end up blowing my engine or something

ide be more than happy with 220whp...i just want the piece of mind knowing that its able to hold 300whp no problem

redvtec00

yo LiL_Shuan i dont want to steal your thread, but you guys said that it would be ok to run the 105300 on a stock valve train..? or is the upgraded valve springs and retainers highly recommended?

LiL_Shaun

i dont have any personal experience with it, but from what i understand you should be able to run it with the stock valvetrain as long as you dont do anything crazy with it ( i.e changing your rev limiter to 9k just cuz of the cam)

i personally would just change out everything at once so you dont have to do it again in the future...you **PROBABLY** wont see much of a gain if the rest of your valvetrain is stock, you wont be using the cam to its full potential. Only way youd see a good gain is if you were boosted...

but like i said, i dont have any personal experience with it so dont quote me =P