EGtyper94

have a B18C Type R and just yesterday after getting off the freeway, I noticed below 3500 RPMS the engine starts shaking and bogging. AS soon as I came to a stop, it idle terribly below 1000 rpms like it wanted to just die and shut off. I pulled the sparkplug wire from cylinder 1 and 2 and it did nothing to the idle, it continued the same way. I just replaced the spark plugs and wires this past Saturday. But when I removed the spark plug from the first cylinder, it was completely black....what could cause this? Please help!

jordantom11

don't know if this is all the problems but i had my b16 engine stumble on idle...i put in a new distributor and everything ran fine again...cylinder one is running rich since it's not burning all of the fuel from lack of spark...borrow someones distributor and see if that makes a difference

King V

Its black from rich cylinder mix. Either the car is getting too much fuel(injector stuck open, etc), or its not burning it completely from a weak ignition.

EGtyper94

How do I check to see if it's an issue with one of the injectors?

Former User

Start simple. Pull off the distributor cap. Check the cap and rotor for corrosion or wear. Replace if necessary.

King V

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RonJ@HT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Start simple. Pull off the distributor cap. Check the cap and rotor for corrosion or wear. Replace if necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And have fun with the screw holding the rotor in place. PITA. I changed it from a Phillips to an 8mm hex bolt.

Luserkid

Sounds like a bad cap and rotor

EGtyper94

How do I know if the cap and rotor are no good? I check the spark from all 4 spark plugs, and it does have a spark.

Former User

Inspect the electrical terminals where the cap and rotor make contact. Try cleaning the contacts if you see corrosion. Replace if you see excessive wear or damage.

96plusf20bb

Hello everyone, am new here just though i help,

1st make sure all your ignition parts are tight like spark plugs (torqued)
each wire firm on its place, distributor screws, rotor gap, plugs gap
check for moisture on the miss firing plugs etc

2nd to find out if your parts are in good shape due a quick resistance check on the following parts. if you have a DMM (digital Multi Meter) do the following select the resistance setting on your meter (Ohms) and direct one lead from your meter to one of the pin on ur injector, and the other lead to the other pin. the reading should be the same or pretty close in my f20b all injectors are about 12.3 ohms
if you have one thats a little to difrent than take note that might the one that bad,
on your wires what you can is place one lead to one end the other to the other end of the plugwire there should be at least 12.5k ohms per foot of wire, go to auto parts store and buy an noid light kit, this is a set of tools that techs use to check the injector drivers from the ECU the pcm control the ground each injector if the driver on any cyl dont work the injector wont spray disconnect the injector and use the noid light that fits in the inj socket on the suspect injectors if the ecu is controlling this injectors then they should blink if they dont and all ur fuse for injectors are good try a buddies PCM (powertrain control module) to see if it fixes the problem by the way the tool on cost like $20 so its good to have.

3rd thing i would do is a compression test, this could lead you a misfire Example:
a compression reading out of spec on the low side would indicate worn pistons rings ect, carbon buildup on a intake exhaust valve seat ect that could defenetly cause a mis fire, also check you fuse for injectors that arent firing (or were the plugs came out blk from) also check for vacuum leaks which could lead a rich running condition. since the air leaking in could make the ecu think ur on the throttle when your really not cause of an increase manifold pressure (aka unmetered air) also check ur fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator they work in this principle at idle we get high vacuum and low map reading which in term opens the regulator so more fuel goes back to the tank or PWM the pump voltage
on the throttle is the oposite so try pinching the vacuum line goin to the regulator at idle it should run rough. sorry for making so long but hope this help

96plusf20bb

sorry about that!


Modified by 96plusf20bb at 7:02 AM 4/10/2008

EGtyper94

Ok I did the compression test. Cylinders 2-4 tested between 240-250. Cylinder one was at 150. Where do I go from here?

geebs

squirt a lil oil in cyl 1 and redo the compression test.. mabye you have a bad headgasket.. or rings are bad... damaged valve...

bubblebrain

squirting oil into the cylinder (wet compression test) would only indicate bad rings.

EGtyper94

What am I looking for when I do the wet compression test?

Former User

Increases in cylinder pressure during a wet versus dry compression test would indicate bad piston rings in those cylinders.

EGtyper94

If the cylinder pressure remains the same, what is my next possible scenario?

Former User

Damaged valves, excess carbon build up on valves, bad head gasket, or cracked/warped head.

EGtyper94

In otherwords, I have to take off the head to find out, right?

How do I do a leak down test?


Modified by EGtyper94 at 2:59 PM 4/8/2008

Former User

Well, a leak down test might distinguish a valve versus head/gasket problem.

EGtyper94

How do I go about doing a leak down test?

AnotherSI

to properly do a leak down test you need a leak down gauge set to meter how much psi is going into the cylinderand how much psi is escaping. you'll need to put the cylinder you are testing to TDC compression and hook up the gauge set. sometimes you'll have to hold the crank pully with a breaker bar cuz the air pressure going in may turn the engine over and put you out of TDC compression. turn on the air and check where its leaking out....radiator neck=head gasket... tailpipe=exhaust valve... throttle body+intake valve... and oil fill/valve cover=piston rings. Have fun!

96plusf20bb

AnotherSI , anyways do just as another si said and see what happens
by the way you could get a Cylinder Leak Down gauge at http://www.harborfreight.com for like $29.99 + shipping total of like $35 if you cant get a hold of one. i have been using my a lot and is pretty accurate its lead me to a lot of diag help.

snap-on is $239 better quality but for the amount of use we give it, 239 inst worth it for IMO hope this helps.

96plusf20bb

have you fixed the problem yet?

EGtyper94

I didn't have the time to work on it, so I took it to a local honda shop. The mechanic said both the 1 and 2 cylinder are not operating. He said it could either be a bad head gasket or something is wrong with the head. He hasn't removed the head yet....what should I do? He said this could turn into an $800 job!