steveop

I'm having a prob with my turbocharged 1992 Civic VX hatch. I had a CEL code 1 because i didnt have an o2 sensor at all. So i took one out of my 2001 Civic EX. had to change connectors to male female accordingly. When I started the car i got another check engine light. I checked it and turned out to be a code 41. Primary o2 heater sensor i believe. So i thought i might have crossed the two black wires for the positive and ground going to the heater. I crossed them and got a code 0. Or what i believe is 0. (CEL stays on does not flash or blink?) So i put wires back into original place and back to code 41 i went. Now i know this o2 works in my 01. So does that mean it just wont work in my 92? If i read the ohm load from the o2 sensor and its good, when i go to get the car tuned, i could just get the tuner to disable the heater sensor all together and should be good right? the motor is a swapped in D16Y7. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

steveop

OK. So now this thing seems to be toying with me ...lol I'm so confused. I cleared the memory and checked it again. It came up with code 41 like usual and now a code 9 ( never came up before). checked the CYP sensor...only to find that terminal H on the connector is gone. there is no wire there. which i guess would throw the cel for that..but why did it not come up before.. now i go to check the cel and it comes up with code 0 again.... this has me stumped.

thehatchninja

what ecu are you using? Is it the VX ecu? If so you'll need a 5-wire O2 sensor.

steveop

The ecu is a P05 92-95 CX. Its a 4-wire plug that runs from the ecu so i dont know. the 4-wire o2 plugged right up. the code 0 is gone. so thats cool...but the code 9 is still comingup...but the car runs good. I just read that the p05 will only set a CEL41 if it has been chipped incorrectly. and that it only looks for 1 wire on the o2 sensor.

blk92_d16

So yeah, I'm running a D15Z1 in my Ex coupe right now. It has a P07 (vx hatch ecu) with an Ex wiring harness, Ex IM & accessories, and VX trans.

I have the same CEL 41 because (from what I've read) I would need a 5-wire to correct it. But check this, throw in a P28 (like mine did when I bought the car w/ 240s in it) and no CEL 41.

So maybe we need to find someone that recently did a swap over from a Z1 like mine and over to a Z6 or something and just trade O2s. 5-wire O2 should fix it I think. BTW, I believe the factory 5-wire had a wideband to it.

steveop

yea sounds like you would need a 5-wire cause your running VX ecu. I'm just stumped on my part because im not sure how a 4-wire plug would plug into a 5 - wire o2 sensor.
And the fact that the p05 only uses a 1 wire o2 sensor. but yet i have 4 wires to the plug. Is this normal?



Modified by steveop at 11:01 AM 2/12/2008

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steveop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea sounds like you would need a 5-wire cause your running VX ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
P07 = 5-wire O2 or CEL.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm just stumped on my part because im not sure how a 4-wire plug would plug into a 5 - wire o2 sensor.
And the fact that the p05 only uses a 1 wire o2 sensor. but yet i have 4 wires to the plug. Is this normal?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're getting an O2 heater code becuase the P05 doesn't have the hardware to detect or use the heater. (it can be added fairly easily)
If you have the transistor added or it is presenst after being chipped...
which harness did you use on the engine? the VX harness? If so then the O2 heater needs to be switched form 12V active to ground active. (the nonECU side of the O2 heater is run to ground on the VX, the P05 needs it run to 12V)
If the transistor is not present (Q30 under the center bar) then disable the heater or you'll always get that CEL.

also are you sure that the 01 O2 is four wires and not five? some newer hondas use five wire O2s.

steveop

ok sorry gave some wrong info. It's a p06 chipped on crome. I just bought the car off a friend. So im trying ti get the info off him. But yea im sure the 01 sensor is 4 wire.

Relic1

the P06 has the O2 heater control transistor. So which harness did he use for the swap?

a volt meter will tell you how it's wired.
pick on of the black wires on the O2, measure the voltage on it when you switch on the ignition. It should either remain at 0V for a while then slowly pull up to 12V, or remain at 12V at all times.
If it remains at 0V all the time you have a wiring issue to fix.

OR you could find out which harness he used for the swap. And if he changed anything for the O2 heater.

steveop

ok...so i took the readings on the o2...one of the wires had no reading. two of them read .29V the other one read 12.31V.

Relic1

those readings may be ok... it depends on when you took the reading and if the car is warm or cold.

here is what you should see on each leg of the O2.

white - 0-1 volt oscilating from .3 ot .7 when the car is warmed up, when first started it could be anywhere between 0 and 1 volt. the black wire listed below is a good indication of when this wire should be oscilating. (both black wires at 12V, white will be oscilating)

green - constant ground

black - constant 12V

black - when the ignition is first switched on it will have 0V, after a little while it will rise up to around 6 volts, then eventualy rise to 12V.


by 0V I mean something close to it, by 12V I mean something close to battery voltage.
placing the ground probe on the thermostat ground will lower the chance of getting slightly offset readings.

steveop

Alright, really appreciate your help....just went out and tried again with car warm and got the 12V ground at almost 14V. two wires at 0.65V and 0.85V then the last remaining wire at 0.25-0.3V...Now here is my question...i cant go by colors because the guy wired the o2 up himself with diff color wiring. so i guess going by voltages i could tell which wires go where on the o2 plug. but how do i figure out what wires are what on the sensor itself?

Relic1

the wire colors I was referencing are on the O2 itself.
you're taking these readings with the O2 disconnected?

steveop

yea im clueless on this stuff..lol so do i have to skin part of the wire to get a reading with it hooked?

Relic1

yes, but keep the hole as small as possible, and be sure to tape it up really good when you're done.

steveop

alright i did all that and am getting good readings. so what does this mean as far as my cel? which i cleared mem and checked and it is just staying on like code 0.

Relic1

it means that there is something else wrong not the O2.
most likely the chip in the ECU is either loose or there are solder problems.

steveop

alright, i checked the chip in the ecu and it seemed fine. ill check it out..thanks alot for all your help .

suspendedHatch

If you have a D15Z1 and you want it to run correctly, you need the OEM wideband O2 specific to that engine and you need the P07 ECU. You can get it driveable with a different OBD1 ECU and corresponding O2, but you'll have driveability problems with bucking/hesitation/poor idle/lack of power, not be able to rev past 4k or so (not because of a revlimiter but because of misfire), and you'll be lucky to get 20mpg. At least ground the VTEC solenoid to lock it into 16 valve mode and then try a DX ECU and O2.

I had to go through all of that. Now I have the 3 Stage VTEC motor and an AEM EMS (40+ mpg and 120whp) and I'm not looking back.

steveop

nah. Im running a D16Y7 with a P06 chipped on chrome.