great.dividers1

Here's the story:

The car is a 2000 SiR, turbocharged on the stock motor.

My car is parked for the winter. I go outside to fire it up last week, its -5 celsius out, it fires up fine so i head inside and let it idle for a bit. I come back out 7ish minutes later and the car sounds HORRIBLE. I shut it down immediately. The car will turn over, but it wont hold an idle now.

I honestly dont have a clue where to start looking. I can put up a mod list if it helps. I was running 10w30 with an oil additive thats thick.

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Former User

Any CEL codes?

Have you checked the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor?

94EG8

would you care to define "sounds horrible"? What's it doing, knocking? Missing?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

What is this tuned on?

great.dividers1

Tuned on chrome. There wasn't a CEL on either.

I just drained the oil, no metal or anything in it. It was going to hold an idle but there was a horrible tick so I shut it down right away.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

CROME? So is it tuned or on a basemap? Who tuned it? You might wanna give them a call.

great.dividers1

The car was done before i purchased it. My understanding is that it was tuned, not a basemap. No idea who the tuner would be though

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

If you're not throwing CELs I'm apt to think it's your basemap/tune.
What is your response to post #2?

great.dividers1

Everything seemed to be in order, I didnt pull the plugs to check anything.

The thing is the car was running great for a year or so. I parked it for about 2 months, and then I ran into problems when I tried to start it again. Could it still be the tune?

It sounds like it isn't getting any oil, but my knowledge is limited :/

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Seems? Are you not running any gauges? I suggest you get some ASAP. At minimum Oil pressure, Vac/Boost and a wideband with sensor. Since you don't have an EMS that you can datalog or monitor anything with this is a non-option. This is why you don't buy anyone else's project.

NotAJDMFanBoy

When did you get the car? Do you have a wide band o2 sensor? If it's been running well in warm weather, it could be the tune. I'm not familiar with CROME but I had a friend with a car tuned on it and it needed tweaked for different weather. I have Hondata and running closed loop, I have to tweak it some but it has some compensation built in. If you have an wide band o2 with a display to see the AFR, it could give some indication. Overly rich or lean and it will not run correctly. Idle you want to be at 14.7:1 and maybe up to 15 point something and down to 10:1 mine will idle. Injectors affect things a lot as to how low you can idle smoothly.

You also said you parked it for 2 months. Without a fuel stabilizer (the most popular is Stabil) fuel starts breaking down after a month. There is a possibility it could be bad gas, have condensation (water) in it, or there could be blockages from the gas going bad.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

And is it ticking or knocking? From where?

great.dividers1

The car ran great for well over a year, not really a project? Either way, it's in my driveway not running. Only gauge is boost. \

It's ticking bad. I didnt run it for more then 5 seconds for fear of damaging something further.

My guess is either my timing belt went or oil pump. But I don't have a ton of experience with cars yet. I'm going to check the belt tomorrow and go from there.

great.dividers1

I drove it last winter in the cold (canada), and it ran fine. So i don't think it's the tune.

I never even thought about the fuel

NotAJDMFanBoy

I think it should be mentioned that the OEM oil pressure warning light only goes on when pressure drops to something like 1psi, which is dangerously low. The other two are obvious why you need them.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Get an oil pressure gauge and a wideband. Running without one is playing Russian Roullete with your engine. It may be too late as it is.
I call it a project because it obviously (to me) is not in a finished state.

Please list off the parts of the turbo setup.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

For a turbo car that going off is pretty much too late to be of any use.

NotAJDMFanBoy

How much gas is in the tank? You can try draining the gas and changing your fuel filter and putting some injector cleaner in. There should be someplace that can take bad fuel. The volatiles can evaporate over time and the octane rating supposedly goes down. How much of all this is true, I'm not certain, but I know I've had fuel issues with lawnmowers and such before and fresh gas was able to make them run.

You said it sat 2 months though, so that's not super long, but a possibility.

great.dividers1

B16A2 w/ 200000 KM's
T3/T4 T04E 50trim @ 6psi
450cc DSM injectors
Custom ramhorn manifold
FMIC
2.5" downpipe into stock exhaust
Turbosmart 38mm wastegate
Crome tune

Some suspension and other things, but that's all for engine mods. The motor and head are both all stock.

No oil pressure light was on either.

(I appreciate the help BTW, wouldn't get this fixed without HT)

NewtoCivics

I'm not a Honda expert but even my limited knowledge tells me that turbo on a stock B16a2 is not a good idea....

NotAJDMFanBoy

Turbocharging a stock engine is fine. People do this on b16 engines and Integra GSR engines all the time, and both are 10:1 compression with cast pistons. The maximum safe power you can throw at them is just lower than a built engine with forged pistons and stronger rods. 6lbs on that turbo should be fine. The injectors make me worry a bit. I looked it up and they only support 228hp at probably 45psi, and our Hondas run at 43 I think. This is likely running a maximum of 80% duty cycle, which you can push a little higher, but they get unreliable. You can increase the fuel pressure, but this also can make them unreliable. You need to get some way to data log and monitor your AFRs, pressures, and injector duty cycle. Nobody likes spending $600-1000 on engine management, plus another couple hundred on a wide band (I like my PLX DM-5), plus more on gauges, but you have to monitor stuff to make sure it's working right.

jbpnoman

Then your limited knowledge is incorrect. Stock B16s can easily handle 6PSI without any problems, as long as they're relatively healthy. Also, 450cc injectors should be able to push 6PSI just fine. I'm running 480s on 10PSI in a D16 without any problems.

People run aftermarket turbos without widebands? That's just asking to grenade a motor. Get a wideband and see where your AFR is.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I'm more concerned with the loud ticking noise at this point.

sde780

It's a great idea. Makes great power and still gets good gas mileage.

I made 300whp on DSM 450cc and my tuner said he's pushed them further without much issues, but that area is the maximum. I doubt he is making 300whp anyways, his injectors are fine.

OP make a video to show us what's wrong and what it sounds like. It could be water in your distributor, or your timing belt slipped, or a number of different things. Hard to diagnose when you just say it's a horrible tick.

NotAJDMFanBoy

I was going off a calculator I found online. It may just be erring way, way on the safe side, but then again, I know a person pushing some injectors from a Chevy Cobalt or something up to the higher 90 something percent duty cycle range. It's good they can do that fine though, one less thing he has to worry about.