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iTrader: (2)

I have a 00 Civic Si that is mostly stock, although I've always had it with an aftermarket Blaster 2 coil, wired to the ICM, with a MSD cap.

It has been running horribly for a while, loosing mass amounts of power after it gets to engine temp, most of the time in second gear, it would go, then slug down to nothing, and I would have to let off the throttle a bit to get it to stop.

Anyways, a friend and I replaced the dizzy cap, it was in horrible shape, and the rotor. I have two wires coming out of the igniter to the Blaster 2 on terminals. The car ran great after the replacment during a test drive, after about 10 minutes it started to get worse, which culminated in the car dying and dropping to like 400 rpm, wouldn't go higher than that with throttle. Then it just died, and wouldn't start after that.
I got a new igniter, which didn't fix it either. Both igniters test good at AutoZone. Coil tests good, even tried a brand new one.

I think we may have pinched the wires in the cap when it was being installed. When they finally shorted out, maybe thats when the car died...who knows.

Anyone have any idea? I get no spark, cranks fine, I have fuel pressure, and can hear the pump prime no problem. At first when it was cranking, it almost seemed like it wanted to start, but now nothing.

I ordered a new dizzy that will be here this week, I have no idea what to attack as it didn't even throw a code light, I'm just throwing parts at it at this point.

Any idea's?

Former User

Here's your chance to return your ignition system to stock, which is superior to anything else.

Also check whether dash fuse 9 is blown.

Post clear pictures of the pinched wires.

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iTrader: (2)

Ron,
yes, that's what i was going for, if the stock distributor fixes it, great...IDC about the MSD crap. I've already replaced the pinched wires with new wire, so I can't take pics.

It was blowing the underdash ignition fuse for a while there, I think while a wire was pinched. Once we got it cleanly through the grommet so nothing was pinched, it stopped blowing that fuse, but still no spark. Sorry I forgot to mention that.

Former User

Yeah, install the OEM distributor and then go from there.

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iTrader: (2)

Ok, new distributor is on, still no start, no spark at all. Doesn't blow no. 9 underdash fuse, under hood ignition fuse is good.

No codes thrown...

My friend thinks it may have possibly bombed the ECU...although I would hope there would be a code...but there's nothing.

Former User

Crank the engine for 30 seconds to see if a code is set.

Do the ICM input tests (see diagram in FAQs sticky).

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iTrader: (2)

Crank test didn't throw a code.

didn't get a chance to do the ICM test, although I have the service manual open on my iPad. It is a brand new distributor, I'm assuming the test is to test all the wires coming to the ICM?

When i check for continutity between the ECU and the ICM, do I test from the plug of the ECU to the wire that plugs into the ICM? I only have a small multimeter, can I just attach a wire from one lead to the ICM wire sense they are far apart?

Former User

Ground one end of the wire and test for continuity to body ground at the other.

The short test is done the same way except without grounding one end.

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iTrader: (2)

Allrighty, completed all tests from the service manual for testing the igniter...everything seems to be working as intended

Ron you've been insanely helpful too, I thank you. I'm really bumming now...any other ideas? I've read your sticky post as well for testing for spark btw.

jap305

yeah this happened to me exactly took me a week to diagnosis this problem ended up just replacing the entire dizzy. Long story short, no clear instructions that the coil needed to be mounted vertically and that it needed a 9 ohm resister between the coil and the ignitor, ran for about 2 hours then fried everything on the Florida Turnpike. I re bought every piece of that distributor before just ending up have to replace the entire dizzy because you cant by the inner coil by itself you have to replace the entire dizzy. I pretty damn certain thats what it is because i had the exact same problem with the exact same coil.

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iTrader: (2)

I did just replace the dizzy, with a brand new one...still nothing. The MSD stuff was on the car when I bought it, its done me well for 5 years...but I'll never put it back on after this

Former User

Did you open and short test the Yel/Grn wire?

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iTrader: (2)

It has battery voltage with the ignition switch set to on. Short test = continuity? If so, it does.

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iTrader: (2)

Well, trailering the car to the shop on Wednesday I will post back in this thread what the problem was, for the sake of Google's spiders an anyone that develops the same problem in the future. Thanks for all the help Ron!

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Look up Accell # 11076

coil works great for me

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iTrader: (2)

If anyone was curious, my car has been at the shop for a week now. Old school honda guy too. He stumped. To the point he thinks its the distributor, even though I just put a new one on a few days before I took it down there. FUN STUFF

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iTrader: (2)

Just if anyone was wondering, and for google's sake, it was the ECU. Replaced and car started instantly. Probably something to do with the pulse wire.
Cheers

Ryank327

I wish i wouldve seen this thread earlier, had pretty much the same string of events happen to me 8 years ago.