Faayde

Hello all and thanks for the help ahead of time. I've searched many threads here and found no resolutions helpful due to unfinished dead threads and not my exact problem.

I have a 2000 Civic SI with a B16A block and head. I just rebuilt the motor (new pistons, bearings, complete valve-train upgrade, all new gaskets and seals) and threw it back in not to long ago. I fired it up for the first time last weekend and it idles like a boss. So this weekend I was going to do a break-in drive but failed to due to the car won't go past 3.5 RPM in any gear (or in neutral). I don't have on CEL codes right now, I had one in the past, the knock sensor, but resolved that swapping the correct plug to it.

I can smell the exhaust fumes, and it smells kinda rich (I think). from what I read the car may be in a "limp mode" state but with no CEL codes... I'm stumped. Things I've Tried:

Unplugging the O2 sensor (read in another thread that doing this might get rid of the issue but it did not).

I've adjusted the TPS sensor at idle to get to .70 volts, I can't get it to .50 to save my life. I have it turned all the way couter-clockwise to the max and that's as low as I can get it.

I did make sure that there's enough oil (Royal Purple Break-in) so it can pressurize properly.

The only thing I haven't tried yet was timing, which I will do tomorrow. I need to buy the tool to do it, but not sure if that is the problem.

As for sensors, all are original besides the Crank Positioning sensor and the Knock sensor.

I haven't bought new spark plugs or fuel injectors, but everything was running just fine before I rebuilt the motor, not that I'm ruling these out because **** happens.

If anyone has knowledge of this or can pin point this because I did something stupid, please point me to the right direction! Thank you again for your time and let me know if any other info is needed because I'm sure I missed some crucial info (it's 1am right now )

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

Does your CEL work? Does it turn on when you turn ignition to the second position and turn off after a couple seconds?

Have you tried jumping the service connector to pull codes?

tony_2018

adjust tps for WOT, meaning open the butterfly to the max and adjust. Now check the tps again and see where its at.

guide: https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...e-tps-2947986/

Faayde

Rollinmyda - Yes my CEL works, I confirmed that before hand and after you posted your reply.

tony 2018 - at WOT the lowest I can get the voltage is 6.62 on my stock TB, it was even higher on the Skunk2 Alpha TB. So seems my issue is too much voltage to the TPS. I tested the wire straight to ECU and I'm getting like 7+ volts... bad ECU maybe?

Thank you guys for the replies, but seems the issue is still present

tony_2018

Did you mount the tps correctly? Did you verify the wire that is supplying voltage?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Have you checked your timing yet? &nbsp;You really should. &nbsp;Have you tried adjusting the throttle plate stop screw to see if you can get the TPS voltage lower without locking the TB?</p>

Faayde

Update: Found out why the voltage was too high. The multimeter from O'rielly Auto Parts was f'd up. Got a different one and got it to it's correct voltage.

That aside, my problem still exists with TPS at .5 at idle and 4.50 WOT.

Also replaced the MAP sensor as well because I was getting funky map readings from live data. that also did not fix the issue.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Have</p><p>You</p><p>Checked</p><p>Your</p><p>Timing</p><p>Yet?</p>

Faayde

My timing is dead perfect. I'm starting to wonder if this may be fuel related, it smells like to much fuel is going to the engine, but maybe it's because I'm full throttling it for a while while it boggs out. When at idle, fuel is not a problem. Anyone else?

wunfstgsr

Have you checked to see if the cam gears are at TDC and diddnt skip a tooth or two?

Faayde

ath_wndr

This just happened to me on my '97 Civic EX. It turns out it was a bad Knock Sensor.

Faayde

I had this replaced about 3 months ago and haven't had an issue until the rebuild. It is possible I guess that it could have gone bad during my rebuild, but it would also throw a code like it did before I rebuilt the engine. Anyone else have an idea of what my car may be going through?

ath_wndr

Mine went bad because i accidentally broke the connector of the knock sensor and the first replacement had come appart during installation. The second replacement was the charm. Like you mentioned though, my car had thrown a code too. It probably wouldn't hurt to check the connection.

Faayde

So I disconnected the knock sensor and my check engine light turned on. Turns out this was not the case, but thanks for your input! Greatly appreciated. Anyone else have any clues on why my car won't rev past 3.5k RPM?

JRCivic1

Can you provide a list of ALL parts (with the manufacturer) you used in your rebuild please. This will help us to direct you. Leave NOTHING out... no matter how small or insignificant you believe it might be.

My first thought, as stated by another member already, is your mechanical timing. Having one (or both) cams a single tooth off from their correct positions at TDC will create the symptom that you have described without throwing a CEL.

flamingdragon

Have you checked your IACV?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>We don't need quite that much detail yet.</p><p>Exactly what head are you using? &nbsp;Exactly what block are you using? &nbsp;Exactly what ECU are you using?</p>

Faayde

B16A Block, B16A Head, P2T 99-00 Civic SI ECU

Yes, I confirmed this is working normally

B16A Head Mods:
Mild Port & Polish
Skunk2 Stage 1 Camshafts
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Skunk2 Valve Set
Skunk2 Ti. springs and retainers
Skunk2 Lost Motion Assembly

B16 Block Mods:
Piston Hone
Crankshaft polish

Misc Mods:
Skunk2 Intake Monifold
Skunk2 Alpha Throttle Body
AEM Short Ram Intake
Skunk2 Alpha Radiator
Mishimoto Fan Shroud
Mishimoto Thermostat (not currently installed, free flowing)
Unorthodox Crank Pully
Gates Belt
Tien Street Flex Coilovers
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs (not installed)
DriveShaft Axles

Rebuild Mods:
Pistons + Rings
All new bearings
New Distributor
All new gaskets and seals
New Oil Pump
New Water Pump
New Knock Sensor
New MAP Sensor
Mugen Motor Mounts (3 main, 2 torque)

Transmission Mods:
Bone Stock

Faayde

Bump

wunfstgsr

Confirm your mech timing is right!!!!

tamboo

seems to be a lot of this going around lately.
mine jumped a tooth on the intake cam when the coil took a dump.
took me months to figure that one out.
stumped the local expert too then the light bulb above my head popped on.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Integra-B18c1-B18c5-B16A-Cam-Gear-Lock-Timing-Belt-Installation-Tool-/121765284297?fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item1c59c6c9c9&vxp=mtr

tony_2018

Where's the crank position sensor?

Faayde

It is located by the crankshaft, right under the crank pulley.

Faayde

Might have had a break through...

Today I said **** it and started with cheapest replacements all the way to expensive stuff.

Today I went out and bought new spark plugs and spark plug wires. Just because I haven't replaced those anyways. When I pulled out the old ones, they had Oil all over them...

So as a test I through the new ones on and the new wires and ran the car for like 10 minutes or so. Pulled the new plugs back off and hella oil on those too.

I wonder because the oil is reducing spark, it's putting into this Limp Mode like state. I will be replacing the valve cover gasket and the 4 spark plug gaskets. I'm also wondering if I will need to clean the Pistons up because I'm sure there's oil on those as well, or will it burn off after seal is fixed after some idle time...