EK9ED

Ok so i have just purchased thee car i have been looking for, after a very long time, - 2000 Honda Civic Sedan EX 5 Speed Clean title, Original Owner 325,000 Miles and has been changed out to a d15b since the original engine went out. Now my issue is i purchased the car as is, it had check engine light on for a few codes and ill just narrow it down and tell you, P0300 multiple misfire, P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire, P0302, Cylinder 2 Misfire and P0325 Knock Sensor. Now before i go spending tons of money trying this and that i need to narrow it down to where my exact problem is. Now the girl i got it from had it diagnosed at a shop and these were the results - Car had a compression test - Cylinder 1 spark plug is stripped and will not come out, Cylinder 2 has 25psi, Cylinder 3 and 4 read at 125psi, and the shop stated we need to replace the knock sensor and also have the head removed to inspect for valve damage. Now i am a intermediate honda mechanic, i have done a few head gasket jobs in my time and a couple of swaps and im pretty familiar with working on honda's i am just trying to figure out which road to go, is this something i can fix with the head or do i have to rip apart the block and replace rings and pistons, do i Replace with a chinese take out d15b for $700 and be done with it , or do i rip apart the engine, check the head and block and try to fix that way and buy and build part after part? i really would like to drive this thing asap preferrably in less than 3 weeks for eibach, please help a brotha out and show me the way! thanks in advance

HondaPartsHero

Find a SOHC VTEC ZC OBD2 or the OBD2 VTEC D16A. Reuse your ECU, bypass the CKF and VTEC pressure switch (if its missing) and the rest should be plug and play.

EK9ED

Any other advice maybe a quick or quicker fix?

tony_2018

You can tell by what the mechanic said is wrong and verify that. If replacing the head is a cheaper route go for it. A leakdown test can probably tell you if your compression problem could be a valve issue.

EK9ED

so what would be the first thing i should do, rip off the head? keep in mind cylinder 1 spark plug is jammed and its going to have to get repaired either way

EK9ED

anybody?

EK9ED

BUMP

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

This is the only thing you need to do. Your engine is done. There is no quick fix for that. Either replace the engine, or replace the car.

Former User

Key question: Will OP bump until he gets answer he wants rather than the truth.

tony_2018

Well the problem is that he can't do a compression test on cylinder 1 because of a fucked up spark plug, its stripped. Either replace head or fix head. But before that a leakdown could help here as well to see if the valves are leaking in to the other cylinders. If so maybe thats why you have low compression numbers.

EK9ED

I Got the head off it doesnt look to bad as far as the valves and pistons but the problem may like far where the eye cant see, im going to take it to a shop tomorrow to check out the head see if its still good and if it is then the problem lays within the block, as for the spark plug in cyl 1 i managed to muscle it out, but its going to need to rethreaded and fixed. If the head comes back good then i have to rip out the block and have that checked out. The answer is im not bumping for the answer that i want, i just need guidance on to either rebuild or replace the whole thing since in the past it was just easier for me to just R&R. I never done a rebuild but if im going to spend less than a cost of a swap on a rebuild then thats saving money already plus i would know the history of it since i probably plan on keeping this for many many years...i may just have to get a trashed d16y8 block and rebuild it considering the one in the car is d15b and the head is a y8. what do yall think

HondaPartsHero

I'd just consider the cost of a rebuild vs "new" used engine and how fast you need the car back.

EK9ED

well my local shops here charge anywhere from $750-$800 for a replacement jdm motor with warranty and thats either a d15b or a d16a but which of most arent just plug and play direct replacement to the d16y8 due to the 3 stage vtec which has to be wired up in order to work properly so finding another d16y8 from a shop will run me $900 or buy a used one from some guy off craigslist for $450-$500 and take my chances of that one taking a dump on me because people like or just dont know the health of the motor. so in my best opinion i would imaging a rebuild would be the best option here especially if the head comes back good and then i just have to worry about the block.

EK9ED

you know im not sure i have heard that they DONT and there fore you have to chip the ECU to bypass it like in a earler post someone put, but im 80% sure this is a d15b look at the stamp i dont know of any other sohc engines that have just a B after the code and another thing i think the knock sensor plug is missing i found a cut wire around it and thats probably why it was throwing a code for it.

tony_2018

Start another thread, wtf.

Former User

Maybe I missed something. If you can't install a replacement engine on your own, I don't understand how you plan to rebuild an engine.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

First off, little bit of advice. In the English language, we use punctuation to break up separate thoughts, organize our words, and allow for our intent to be more easily conveyed to the reader. To some, a well-worded, collected paragraph can be as nice to read as a perfectly built, dead smooth engine is to drive. What you posted is missing on two cylinders, dumping fuel, and can't go faster than 5 MPH on the highway. The only thing that gets you is flipped off and passed by. Please, help us help you. Make yourself easier to understand, and you'll get more, and better answers.

That being said, what are you talking about? Not all D15B's use 3 stage VTEC, and as far as I know, none of the D16A's do. Whoever told you a D16A wouldn't be a straightforward swap lied to you. $900 for a D16A, swapped, with a warranty, is a good deal for someone incapable of doing the work for themselves. Can you actually do the complete engine overhaul yourself, or would you be paying someone to do it for you? If you'd be doing it yourself, would you have the hardware to do the critical work of checking clearances, honing the walls, and matching P2W for the replacement pistons, or would you be paying someone else to do that for you?

If you're willing to do the rebuild yourself, and have a reliable machine shop to do the machine work, and trust your work enough to not worry about the lack of a warranty (or have a second car), then go for the rebuild. If you said no to any of those three stipulations, forget about it. Just pay the shop the $900, get a D16A put in, and let that be the end of it.

tony_2018

The obd2 d15b 3 stage does have a knock sensor, his engine is probably an obd1 and doesn't have one. His best option is to ensure the engine he picks comes out of an 96-99, has a knock sensor and ckp sensor.

EK9ED

Thanks for Flaming me NotARacist....sorry i didnt use proper punctuation maybe im just frustrated and want to get this thing up an running before i get fed up and junk it...i have been looking at different options at what i need to do, one of the options would be to get a d16y7 swap which is easily and cheaply available everywhere and slap the y8 head on it and be done with it. Would that possibly work, since it has all the functionalitys of the stock motor, i am not the best when it comes to knowledge of hybrids but please help a brother out here. would it work if i did that would everything work, vtec, knock sensor, and pass smog and run right or do i have to absolutly get a y8 block?

EK9ED

so do you think the d16y7 swap and a y8 head will solve my problem.?

EK9ED

well the knock sensor is there in the old d15b but it was never plugged in and i think the wires cut but thats another problem in itself, but the sensor is there it was very loose when i unscrewed it, but i think it was just there to fill the hole...

tony_2018

unless this d15b is....oh **** it... I just did a 10 hr total road trip back and forth.

EK9ED

so the search begins for a decent d16y7 swap, hopefully i get lucky and not scammed like 90 % of these idiots that sell engines on craigslist and say they "ran good when taken out" and come to find out its knocking really bad after i just spent hours installing it FML, my budget isnt much for this replacment im looking to spend $250-$300 just for long block, ill keep yall posted on what happens , Nonetheless thank you all for your info and support this is why i continue coming back to HT due to awsome support group...