Loyalhondahaver

Here we go again.

Car is a manual 2000 Civic Ex with a d16y7, using an 1999 automatic d16y7 engine wire harness.

With the paper clip trick to check CEL, I am seeing code 63. With an obd2 scanner, I am getting p0138, p0136 and p0158.

This is my first thread dealing with code 65 when I first got the motor in.
VVVVVV
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/00-civic-ex-code-65-secondary-o2-heater-circuit-3271976/

After test driving for about 20 miles, code 63 pops up. Slight surge the moment the light comes and and power comes back. Code has come back again and again.

Back to the drawing board I tested the heater circuit. At the secondary o2 connector, harness side- I have power from black/yellow wire to body ground.

I do not have power from the black/yellow wire to the black/white wire on the same connector.

Looking back at the last thread, seems I have a short in the black/white wire. I tested for continuity like this-

Depinned black/white wire which was pinned into slot A8, I taped my test lead to the pin, then touched the other test lead to the black/white wire at the secondary o2 connector. I got a beep, I have continuity there. I thought must be ECU? So I threw in the automatic 99 LX ECU that was original to the motor. Still no power when testing between black/white and black/yellow at secondary o2 connector. Just to be sure, I threw in an ECU that was original to the car- 00 civic ex. Still no power.

I also tested the black/white wire with continuity to body ground, at the ECU pin side and the secondary o2 connector side. I did this to see if it was shorting to ground. No continuity.


I am very confused, if I have continuity all the way through the black/white wire, and no continuity from the wire to ground.. If all three ecus are good... Can't wait to solve this!

Help.

Loyalhondahaver

Another bit of info, with black/white secondary o2 wire depinned from ECU connector slot a8, when I start the car I get a CEL in the first 10 seconds, just as I did in the very beginning of the first thread. So, it seems I am getting a connection from the female wire harness pin to the male ECU pin.

Former User

What ECU? P0138 suggests you are using a 96-98 Civic P2E ECU with a 99 Civic auto engine wire harness.

Loyalhondahaver

The



Believed to be a 99-00 d16y7 manual ECU.

Former User

My mistake.

Loyalhondahaver

Ok, off to the parts store to borrow their scanner. Will report back soon.

Loyalhondahaver

Well screw me! Doing the first part of this test, I was paying attention to the rmps and not the temp gauge so much. Steam coming from under hood, checked temp gauge- over heating. ****. Seems rad cap is leaking. Coolant is leaking from it. Didn't hear the fan kick on, it's not on now with the car still overly warm and the key in the second position. Looks like I found another problem or two.

Loyalhondahaver

when the coolant temp was at 284 according to the scanner, I got this--

Loyalhondahaver

I think I figured out the problem. There is no wire pinned into a23, should be the red/white secondary o2 wire. Hopefully that's the fix and hopefully it didn't take me a head gasket and mill to figure that out! Lol

Former User

284F. Not good.

I hope you didn't destroy the engine gaskets and bearings.

Loyalhondahaver

Yep, pin 2, white/red of the green connector. needs to go to a23.

Loyalhondahaver

I sure hope I didn't too! No white smoke yet, drove it 50 miles with no over heating and no CEL. We'll see this morning when I start it up if I have a cloud of white smoke. By the way, a blown rad fan fuse was what caused my fan not to come on.

Wish me luck with the HG and bearings deal!

Any input on why I don't have battery voltage when I put my multimeters leads on both heater wires of the secondary o2 connector (harness side) with the key in the on position?

Former User

Do you also have a heater element code?

Did you unplug the O2 sensor and then test for voltage using either the (-) battery post or the other black wire terminal as ground?

Loyalhondahaver

I do not have a heater element code.

I unplugged the o2 and put one test lead on the female pin for the black/yellow wire(I believe it was the black/yellow and not the other black/colored wire, I'd have to double check), then the other one at the negative battery terminal and had battery voltage. Then when I put both test leads to each female black wire pin of the connector I did not have battery voltage as I once did.

Former User

If no code is thrown, then you are likely making a testing error.

With key in ON(II), you should measure battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire when you use either the (-) battery post or the Blk/Wht wire as ground.