0-4 gauge wire crimpers
07-21-2005, 06:13 PM
#2
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For a wire of that size, you'd need a hydraulic or battery-powered crimper. I'm an Electrician, I use them all the time.
What you can do, is use mechanical crimpers. Meaning, lugs. Slip the wire through the tap, and you tighten down with an allen socket, or some are flathead held.
The types I'm talking about are these:
or something similar. Home Depot carries them in the electrical connections aisle.
What you can do, is use mechanical crimpers. Meaning, lugs. Slip the wire through the tap, and you tighten down with an allen socket, or some are flathead held.
The types I'm talking about are these:
or something similar. Home Depot carries them in the electrical connections aisle.
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07-21-2005, 09:40 PM
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Re: (BROKE.eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BROKE.eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont crimp those size conectors, i solder them. just heat up the connector with a small hand heldtorch then solder away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I did, works great.
Thats what I did, works great.
07-21-2005, 10:11 PM
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Re: (BROKE.eg)
you soldered 4 gauge wire? **** man, how many pounds of solder is that? haha.
I got a 4-gauge ground for my transmission (wire was free man). I got a hooker audio connection. I used a set of vice grips and a small nail where the metal on the head splits where youd normally have a crimper for. This worked as well as crimpers. Someone got a pic of how this is done?
I got a 4-gauge ground for my transmission (wire was free man). I got a hooker audio connection. I used a set of vice grips and a small nail where the metal on the head splits where youd normally have a crimper for. This worked as well as crimpers. Someone got a pic of how this is done?
07-21-2005, 11:54 PM
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Re: (Redline96LX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Spugen_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A vice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
07-22-2005, 01:00 AM
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Re: (Kizmasterflex)
Snap-On makes a crimper for 8ga up to 1/4 in, it looks like a bolt cutters but expexct to pay big$$$, mine was 275, or a hammer and a center punch works ok too
07-22-2005, 01:37 AM
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Re: (Deemeetree)
I use to be an electrican and I have seen several types of mechincal crimpers that will work. I did commerical work 
Fluke has a nice one. I think I still have mine in the garage. I haven't seen it in a while though. It might have walked off.
Fluke has a nice one. I think I still have mine in the garage. I haven't seen it in a while though. It might have walked off.
07-22-2005, 10:23 AM
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Well I went and got a center punch, soulder and a torch. So do I crimp first then soulder or do I soulder then crimp?
I have never souldered anything before any tips?
I have never souldered anything before any tips?
07-22-2005, 01:04 PM
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Re: (4door_demon)
have to heat up the bare wire enough for the solder to become kinda liquid, and it will like soak into the wire... like between all the smaller wires inside. if you try to solder and the solder rolls off, the wire isnt hot enough yet. its pretty easy, just takes a little practice, but not much. good luck.
07-22-2005, 01:07 PM
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Re: (94hatchling)
you guys serious about soldering 4 gauge wire? man, use pliers and a nail.
Or use that **** from home depot, but if you solder that big, and not secured enough, theres a good chance it could brake off.
Or use that **** from home depot, but if you solder that big, and not secured enough, theres a good chance it could brake off.
07-22-2005, 01:20 PM
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Re: (_Spugen_)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Spugen_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A vice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Vic, you are soo ghetto.
Vic, you are soo ghetto.
07-22-2005, 01:26 PM
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Re: (Deemeetree)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deemeetree »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Vic, you are soo ghetto.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL I bet it works better than any other fancy *** crimper **** out there...
Vic, you are soo ghetto.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL I bet it works better than any other fancy *** crimper **** out there...
07-22-2005, 01:30 PM
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Re: (Redline96LX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline96LX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys serious about soldering 4 gauge wire? man, use pliers and a nail.
Or use that **** from home depot, but if you solder that big, and not secured enough, theres a good chance it could brake off.</TD></TR></TABLE> Very true. Basically by soldering those connectors on your are basically filling the area with enough material so it won't pull out. But if that material gives even a little bit your done for. I used 4ga for my wiring and had these rutheless 24k plated connectors. I just hammered the **** and it crimped it just fine. We put a fish scale on the connector to see at what lbs of force the wire would pull out. Well the scale maxed out at 75lbs and still no give. The vise idea would work well also. Though this may be a ghetto process it will look 100% professional when done. But gooping a huge ball of solder on there just looks ghetto.
Or use that **** from home depot, but if you solder that big, and not secured enough, theres a good chance it could brake off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true. Basically by soldering those connectors on your are basically filling the area with enough material so it won't pull out. But if that material gives even a little bit your done for. I used 4ga for my wiring and had these rutheless 24k plated connectors. I just hammered the **** and it crimped it just fine. We put a fish scale on the connector to see at what lbs of force the wire would pull out. Well the scale maxed out at 75lbs and still no give. The vise idea would work well also. Though this may be a ghetto process it will look 100% professional when done. But gooping a huge ball of solder on there just looks ghetto.
07-22-2005, 01:35 PM
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Re: (HondaFanatic708)
Just go to your local stero shop they will have connections that will fit that size of wire and you can use a pair of Vise-grips. I used that when I installed my battery relocation kit You don't need any special tools or solder just a little muscle.
You don't need any special tools or solder just a little muscle.
07-23-2005, 06:26 AM
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Re: 0-4 gauge wire crimpers (4door_demon)
http://www.wiringproducts.com/...en-us
Here...this is what I used to use back when I was still doing car audio professionally.
If you want a great mechanical and electrical connection, Crimp the connection with the "hammer style crimper". Then you should drill a 1/8th inch hole in the center of the connector and fill with solder. Of course insulate the connector with heatshrink if possible. This method will, ensure minimal effective resistance and also give piece of mind to vibration resistance. Plus, by using using solder, the connection will stay corrosion free for a longer period of time. Hope that helps!!!!!
Here...this is what I used to use back when I was still doing car audio professionally.
If you want a great mechanical and electrical connection, Crimp the connection with the "hammer style crimper". Then you should drill a 1/8th inch hole in the center of the connector and fill with solder. Of course insulate the connector with heatshrink if possible. This method will, ensure minimal effective resistance and also give piece of mind to vibration resistance. Plus, by using using solder, the connection will stay corrosion free for a longer period of time. Hope that helps!!!!!
07-23-2005, 06:40 AM
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Re: (_Spugen_)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Spugen_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL I bet it works better than any other fancy *** crimper **** out there...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Crimper:
Mixed with these:
Mainly using a hylug long-barrel.
12,000 LBS. PER crimp. When we crimp 300+ MCM cable, there is at least 2-4 crimps per sleeve, all 90* from each other.
Silly man, using 150 LBS. of body weight on a vise doesn't start to compare to this.
Crimper:
Mixed with these:
Mainly using a hylug long-barrel.
12,000 LBS. PER crimp. When we crimp 300+ MCM cable, there is at least 2-4 crimps per sleeve, all 90* from each other.
Silly man, using 150 LBS. of body weight on a vise doesn't start to compare to this.
07-23-2005, 06:44 AM
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Re: 0-4 gauge wire crimpers (ahrpr)
You talking about Klien Lineman Pliers???? Because if so, those will work for 4ga. but anythine bigger and you will mess them up. With 4ga. you can drill the hole in the connector first, then put the little tooth on the pliers in the hole and squeese like hell but you rick the chance of opening up/splaying the connector. As far as the hammer and screwdriver go, there is a reason that scredrivers has a little warning on them saying "Do not use to pry or chisel." The metal in a screwdriver tends to be a bit on the brittle side. So if you like to see tools explode, the by all mean give it a shot. If not you are better off using a 5mm punch and a hammer.
