[Ideas and Suggestions] Sealing the inside of the rear fender.
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Re: [Ideas and Suggestions] Sealing the inside of the rear fender. (wspcivic)
I hear you! Listen, just get rid of the rubber "protector" off the fenders and keep it clean. every time i wash the car that inner lip gets special attention-wash and wax.
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Re: [Ideas and Suggestions] Sealing the inside of the rear fender. (bhed-w)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bhed-w »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear you! Listen, just get rid of the rubber "protector" off the fenders and keep it clean. every time i wash the car that inner lip gets special attention-wash and wax. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That protector that goes around the wheel well area of the quarter panel is designed to keep rock chips from forming by flying debris and preventing rust.
I think the best solution would be to undercoat that section in the wheel well thoroughly after you weld in new quarters. This is what I plan to do. If there is a better way to do this I'd like to know.
That protector that goes around the wheel well area of the quarter panel is designed to keep rock chips from forming by flying debris and preventing rust.
I think the best solution would be to undercoat that section in the wheel well thoroughly after you weld in new quarters. This is what I plan to do. If there is a better way to do this I'd like to know.
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well unfortunatly unless your absolutly sure you cut out every last but of pitted rusty metal, the rust will be back.
what im seeing in your first pic looks like you just need to get some quarter wheel well patch panels. you can get these on e-bay for about $100 for both sides.
really the best thing you could do is buy the patch panels and bring it to a body shop.
im not dissing you or anything but unless your a professional body man i wouldn't even attempt to weld them on. if you get the panel too hot it will warp on you and then you just made 3x the amount of work for yourself.
now if you dont care how long it lasts thats another story....
you can tap in the rusted areas so they are lows. fill will fiberglass reinforced filler, then bondo it up, primer and paint it. i used to have to fix used cars for a used car dealership and they always wanted the rust repair jobs half assed so that they look good now but in a month or two it's definatly going to start bubbling the bondo up.
rust is a bitch
what im seeing in your first pic looks like you just need to get some quarter wheel well patch panels. you can get these on e-bay for about $100 for both sides.
really the best thing you could do is buy the patch panels and bring it to a body shop.
im not dissing you or anything but unless your a professional body man i wouldn't even attempt to weld them on. if you get the panel too hot it will warp on you and then you just made 3x the amount of work for yourself.
now if you dont care how long it lasts thats another story....
you can tap in the rusted areas so they are lows. fill will fiberglass reinforced filler, then bondo it up, primer and paint it. i used to have to fix used cars for a used car dealership and they always wanted the rust repair jobs half assed so that they look good now but in a month or two it's definatly going to start bubbling the bondo up.
rust is a bitch
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and to answer your question i would use some wurth "body protection" spray. it's an anti corrosion layer that helps prevent further rusting but wont complete stop it of course.
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Oh my god that guy's car looks like ****.
Okay, my friend works at a bodyshop so he hooked me up rustless quaters. How?
It was when I hit a deer, smashed up my hood. He cut out the piece over the wheel in a C shape around it and cut a piece out of my bashed up hood. Then he welded the double painted (and thicker) piece into the hole and smoothed it out/primed/painted it. If you get down on a knee and look up you can see on my car that the rear quaters are thicker, though cosmetically it looks stock.
For all intents and purposes it'll help rust. Though it's oxidation, not condensation, condensation is what happens to a cold glass of water.
In any event, it oxidizes from the inside and works its way out. That's why doing it the way my friend did is probably the best, that or patch it up, smooth it out, and paint it. The whole problem wtih the deal is it needs to be painted on the side facing the spring, but isn't.
Okay, my friend works at a bodyshop so he hooked me up rustless quaters. How?
It was when I hit a deer, smashed up my hood. He cut out the piece over the wheel in a C shape around it and cut a piece out of my bashed up hood. Then he welded the double painted (and thicker) piece into the hole and smoothed it out/primed/painted it. If you get down on a knee and look up you can see on my car that the rear quaters are thicker, though cosmetically it looks stock.
For all intents and purposes it'll help rust. Though it's oxidation, not condensation, condensation is what happens to a cold glass of water.
In any event, it oxidizes from the inside and works its way out. That's why doing it the way my friend did is probably the best, that or patch it up, smooth it out, and paint it. The whole problem wtih the deal is it needs to be painted on the side facing the spring, but isn't.
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