daklown

Lately my water pump has been leaking, and i can deal with that, being broke...just refill occasionally...but yesterday as i was leaving work, i went to start the car and...nothing. I replaced the battery, and it runs, but im sure my alternator is bad. Im not looking for advice on how to tell if the alt is bad, it just is, but what i really need to know is:

should i pull the motor to do the water pump and alt ? OR should i just try to suffer through it with the motor in. I dont have a hoist anymore, ive done several swaps in the past year and pulling is fine by me, i just dont have the hoist.

I HATE working under cramped spaces, but ive always heard the water pump requires engine to be pulled, is this true ?

Really, i just want to know what my smartest plan of attack is here, and how hard it is to change alt and waterpump with motor in. Also, i can live with the waterpump for now, the alternator is kindof an emergency fix though. So if its not too hard to do the alt and just leave the pump, ill do so, i just need to know how difficult it is, considering the tight space, and how to actually, get in there to work.

*edited by Ricey*

Please refrain from using profanity in your thread titles.

dantastic

you don't need to pull the motor to do the altenator or water pump. the altenator can be tested for free at most autoparts stores. if you change your water pump, do your timing belt at the same time since you'll be removing it anyway.

e jay one

the hardest part of the waterpump/timing belt job for me was the damn crank bolt. you wont need to pull the motor its not that tight in there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dantastic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the altenator can be tested for free at most autoparts stores.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Archidictus

If you need more room, drop the entire suspension out of the driver's front fender. It's not too complicated, and much less so than pulling the entire engine.

daklown

well, last time i did my TB (on the B series) it was a bitch with the motor out of the car. I guess its easier on a D though. I guess ill give it a go with the motor in. I just hate working under the IM.

yeah autozone tested it, btw

pdiggitydogg

Crank pulley bolts are a bitch with the engine out man...even on a stand.
I used a 6ft metal fence post and it was still a huge pain in the ***.
I say do it IN the car man...at least to break the bolt loose.

daklown

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you need more room, drop the entire suspension out of the driver's front fender. It's not too complicated, and much less so than pulling the entire engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah the suspension stuff is pretty easy. Good idea, I never thought of that.

xiLLtegRax

how hard is it to do a water pump on a 97 dx? one of my co-worker needs to change water pump and he tried to go to dealer(which will cost him 600$ labor) i know you need to remove the engine mount to the block and all but how long you think this takes? i work at the shop but i prob have to do this at home or at my friends hosue. post it up.

wonder how much i should charge him. lol

daklown

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crank pulley bolts are a bitch with the engine out man...even on a stand.
I used a 6ft metal fence post and it was still a huge pain in the ***.
I say do it IN the car man...at least to break the bolt loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I spent about 3 hours taking that piece of **** off.

xiLLtegRax

all you have to do is zap that **** with a 1/2 inch. but thats only if you are at a shop or have air at home