KRAZGRL

As some of you may have already seen, I had the unfortunate experience of having water sucked up into my motor via my cold air intake...

I'm trying to see what my car would be worth if I sold it with the blown motor. I definitely had water (could tell when I pulled the spark plugs) and after trying to crank it again, I have zero compression. So... it could be a rod and/or valves.

I'm toying with the idea of getting a different little commuter car (ughh... like a yaris hatch) since I'm not really in the car scene like I was when I got my si.

My 00 si is flamenco black pearl, with black leather interior (factory reupholstery), 115K when the motor blew, short shifter, and minor body damage (nicks here and there from commuting on the freeway).


What do you think I should list it as or could get for it?

Thanks for all the help!

B serious

iTrader: (1)

where are you located? This isn't supposed to be a for sale thread. Email me at rotchmike18@yahoo.com

fallen87

why not rebuild the engine or better yet ditch b16 run a B18A1

B serious

iTrader: (1)

lol @ B18A1. Why?

I should mention to KRZGRL that a B16 longblock will be cheaper than rebuilding your B16.

www.n1concepts.com www.hmotorsonline.com.

Buy an OBD2 B16A long block. They should be around $800-1k.

Find a reasonable shop to install it. Shops around here charge around $1k for the install.

Consider that by selling the car as a non-running vehicle, you will lose around $4k or more off the value.

By spending $2k, you can sell a running vehicle or just drive yours. Buying another car costs money.

If you want to spend the money, you can always buy a new car...but there's no sense in losing a lot of $$ on your EM1 just because the engine is blown.

You can also find out what's messed up on your car. If it's just a valve, either installing a new valve or buying a used but good B16 head will be cheaper.

You can always sell it to me for super cheap. I'm always looking for stuff to work on. I'll give you $2k.

KRAZGRL

Well... the problem with rebuilding/doing a swap is that there is no guarantee once the money is spent that it'll work without any problems. New motors only have a start-up guarantee and nothing else. So, if I'm going to invest $2K or so, I don't want to throw it away if the motor ends up having more problems down the line...

I'm in Orange County, CA. I've been looking for motors to swap into it, but for some reason the b16a2 has been near impossible to find. If anything, I want to do a stock replacement (if I decide to go that route)... but then there's the whole issue of whether that's a good investment or not.

I know I can get more that $2K for the shell. Private party retail for my car is about $6700 (with motor). Figure subtract $1500 to $2K for the blown motor (Maybe $4500 to $5000)? I need some input if that is a reasonable asking price...

cracker1252

bump rebuild

B serious

iTrader: (1)

ehhh...I've seen some way better deals. That's overpriced if you ask me.

I got mine with 101k miles (the body and interior are in awesome shape...the car also runs great, Clean carfax, for $63xx OTD...and this was about 1 year ago.

I've seen one recently with 45k miles for $6995.

There was a minty 99k mile one with WEDS sports, stock wheels, and Teins for $7xxx.

You can't just subtract $2k for a blown motor. There's no benefit in that. I could buy a car with that many miles or less miles that I KNOW runs well for the finished price. Why go through the hassle of putting a motor in it?


I figure around $1k for a shipped JDM longblock. I charge $700 for motorswaps out of my garage. I guess I could do a B16A swap into an EM1 in about 8 hours. So...if you only took $2k off !BLUEBOOK!, there's no benefit to buy.

That is to say, if I bought your car for $5k, I'd have to put $1k worth of money into getting the engine. For $6k, I could buy a running car and not have to do anything except for drive it, sit on the couch, and eat more nachos.

It's not exactly a seller's market right now either.

I'm not saying all that because I want to buy it...I live in Illinois. I'm not driving a broken car back from California without some good benefit later.

Put an OBD2 JDM swap in it. I'm sure you can get that BAR'd.

Usually if you buy from a good source, the engine is good. Honestly...if it doesn't smoke or make weird noises on start up, it's probably not going to go sour all of a sudden. Engines don't just have good rings one day and then have totally blown rings the next day under normal conditions.

It happens gradually. No smoke on start up = Probably no bad rings/valve seals for a long time to come.

No knock on start up = keep oil in it and it won't knock for a long time probably.

I'd pay around $2-3k for your car around here. People around here in your same situation would usually sell it for that much, too.

Again, I'm not saying that because I want to buy it. I've bought and flipped cars before. I have friends who do the same thing all the time. Deals come along more often that you think.

I guess the market could be different around you. But my friend did buy an super super super super clean minty EX with 80xxx miles for $6xxx OTD in West Hollywood before he moved back to Chicago. Yeah, it's an EX, but think about the trade offs.