[FAQ]Common problems for 92-95 Civics, and how to prevent/fix
07-15-2005, 05:05 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: sac916, dyess afb, tx, usa
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[FAQ]Common problems for 92-95 Civics, and how to prevent/fix
please list common problems for 92-95 civics and please list what to prevent or how to fix
clutch master cylinder leakage
-2 of my buddies with EGs have had this problem, the seal behind the clutch pedal tends to leak if u STOMP on the clutch too hard....to fix, just buy a new one, they dont sell rebuild kits
input shaft bearing
-by abusing 1st gear and grinding gears, yoll wear out some of the bearings in the tranny and it will make a whirring/grinding noise. trust me, yoll know it when u hear it in acceleration and decelleration
Distributor sensors
-theres 3 sensors inside the distributor that are very sensitive. when i replaced my rotor, it was stuck on there for 4 years. it was a fight to get it off. i was too rough on it, and i guess i damaged the CYP sensor. this is a costly fix, cuz u have to get a brand new dizzy.
Rear Lower control arms
-when changing ur suspension, be careful around the lower control arm. if ur car is a suspension virgin, tkaing it out for the first time will be a pain. the bolt on it snaps easily, so when u change it use a small jack to lift the control arm that holds the brakes for support.
anyone got anythin else post up
clutch master cylinder leakage
-2 of my buddies with EGs have had this problem, the seal behind the clutch pedal tends to leak if u STOMP on the clutch too hard....to fix, just buy a new one, they dont sell rebuild kits
input shaft bearing
-by abusing 1st gear and grinding gears, yoll wear out some of the bearings in the tranny and it will make a whirring/grinding noise. trust me, yoll know it when u hear it in acceleration and decelleration
Distributor sensors
-theres 3 sensors inside the distributor that are very sensitive. when i replaced my rotor, it was stuck on there for 4 years. it was a fight to get it off. i was too rough on it, and i guess i damaged the CYP sensor. this is a costly fix, cuz u have to get a brand new dizzy.
Rear Lower control arms
-when changing ur suspension, be careful around the lower control arm. if ur car is a suspension virgin, tkaing it out for the first time will be a pain. the bolt on it snaps easily, so when u change it use a small jack to lift the control arm that holds the brakes for support.
anyone got anythin else post up
07-16-2005, 12:38 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: [FAQ]Common problems for 92-95 Civics, and how to prevent/fix (vg7z)
Good idea!
Flickering Gauge Cluster
-Seems to be a common problem here on H-T. I've found a couple different problems that cause this. One is the dimmer switch and the other is the headlight switch. Both can be remedied by simply replacing them. I ganked a few dimmer switches from the junkyard and my local dealer sells the headlight switch for about $70 which I don't think is too bad to fix a really annoying problem...
Car won't start when it's hot out
-9 times out of 10 this seems to be a bad main relay. If the car won't start when it's hot in the interior, listen for the fuel pump priming (it's the sound you hear when you turn the ignition to the on position but before you actually crank it over), if you can't hear it priming this is most likely the cause. You alot of times get by with just rolling down the windows or opening the doors to cool it off and you can get it to start. This is because the main relay (little gray/black box with a brown plug going into it and mounted with one bolt) is under the dash on the drivers side behind the hood release. These tend to start showing this symptom @ roughly 10-12 yrs. After years of the solder joints in the relay heating up and cooling down with the interior temp the joints tend to seperate and make sketchy connections. They can be soldered if you are up to it or handy with a soldering iron but $55 for a brand new one from the dealer isn't too bad for 10-12 years worth of piece of mind.
Keep 'em coming!
Modified by NineTwoSi at 1:54 PM 7/16/2005
Flickering Gauge Cluster
-Seems to be a common problem here on H-T. I've found a couple different problems that cause this. One is the dimmer switch and the other is the headlight switch. Both can be remedied by simply replacing them. I ganked a few dimmer switches from the junkyard and my local dealer sells the headlight switch for about $70 which I don't think is too bad to fix a really annoying problem...
Car won't start when it's hot out
-9 times out of 10 this seems to be a bad main relay. If the car won't start when it's hot in the interior, listen for the fuel pump priming (it's the sound you hear when you turn the ignition to the on position but before you actually crank it over), if you can't hear it priming this is most likely the cause. You alot of times get by with just rolling down the windows or opening the doors to cool it off and you can get it to start. This is because the main relay (little gray/black box with a brown plug going into it and mounted with one bolt) is under the dash on the drivers side behind the hood release. These tend to start showing this symptom @ roughly 10-12 yrs. After years of the solder joints in the relay heating up and cooling down with the interior temp the joints tend to seperate and make sketchy connections. They can be soldered if you are up to it or handy with a soldering iron but $55 for a brand new one from the dealer isn't too bad for 10-12 years worth of piece of mind.
Keep 'em coming!
Modified by NineTwoSi at 1:54 PM 7/16/2005
07-16-2005, 01:14 PM
#3
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Califonia, PA, usa
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: [FAQ]Common problems for 92-95 Civics, and how to prevent/fix (vg7z)
Belts started to make a whining sound
-asked friend what to do bout that....he asked if i had AC...(and i do)...he then asked if i use my AC...i said ya my windows get rolled down...he told me to turn it on every now and then........so i've been turning it on...haven't had any whining sound since.
other then that i've only ever had the flickering cluster, wich i will fix now thanks!!
-asked friend what to do bout that....he asked if i had AC...(and i do)...he then asked if i use my AC...i said ya my windows get rolled down...he told me to turn it on every now and then........so i've been turning it on...haven't had any whining sound since.
other then that i've only ever had the flickering cluster, wich i will fix now thanks!!
07-16-2005, 02:10 PM
#5
Re: [FAQ]Common problems for 92-95 Civics, and how to prevent/fix (NineTwoSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NineTwoSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Car won't start when it's hot out
-9 times out of 10 this seems to be a bad main relay. If the car won't start when it's hot in the interior, listen for the fuel pump priming (it's the sound you hear when you turn the ignition to the on position but before you actually crank it over), if you can't hear it priming this is most likely the cause. You alot of times get by with just rolling down the windows or opening the doors to cool it off and you can get it to start. This is because the main relay (little gray/black box with a brown plug going into it and mounted with one bolt) is under the dash on the drivers side behind the hood release. These tend to start showing this symptom @ roughly 10-12 yrs. After years of the solder joints in the relay heating up and cooling down with the interior temp the joints tend to seperate and make sketchy connections. They can be soldered if you are up to it or handy with a soldering iron but $55 for a brand new one from the dealer isn't too bad for 10-12 years worth of piece of mind.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
For a temporary fix, reach under your dash and tap the side of the main relay a couple of times with your fingers when the key is on. Works for me every time.
Car won't start when it's hot out
-9 times out of 10 this seems to be a bad main relay. If the car won't start when it's hot in the interior, listen for the fuel pump priming (it's the sound you hear when you turn the ignition to the on position but before you actually crank it over), if you can't hear it priming this is most likely the cause. You alot of times get by with just rolling down the windows or opening the doors to cool it off and you can get it to start. This is because the main relay (little gray/black box with a brown plug going into it and mounted with one bolt) is under the dash on the drivers side behind the hood release. These tend to start showing this symptom @ roughly 10-12 yrs. After years of the solder joints in the relay heating up and cooling down with the interior temp the joints tend to seperate and make sketchy connections. They can be soldered if you are up to it or handy with a soldering iron but $55 for a brand new one from the dealer isn't too bad for 10-12 years worth of piece of mind.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
For a temporary fix, reach under your dash and tap the side of the main relay a couple of times with your fingers when the key is on. Works for me every time.
07-16-2005, 02:44 PM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: pottstown, pa, usa
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Jimmy)
NOTHING HONDA IS PERFECT!
that usual rust spot above the rear wheels... i guess hit the inside with rustoleum or somthing, i don't really know how to prevent this.
that usual rust spot above the rear wheels... i guess hit the inside with rustoleum or somthing, i don't really know how to prevent this.
Trending Topics
07-16-2005, 03:01 PM
#8
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Califonia, PA, usa
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (alleyezonme)
you know that stupid rubber strip that is on the eadge up under the rear wheel well, pull that **** off.
water gets in it when you wash it or when it rains and sitts in there. thats why you see all hondas rust there first. my friend pulled his off when it was new its a 98, no rust there yet. i just got a 95, there was a little spot started when i pulled mine off and it hasn't got worse.
07-16-2005, 05:30 PM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Project_DX)
poorly retractable seat belts... this isnt just a problem with eg's, its all older hondas... just visit your local honda dealer for free lifetime replacement
07-16-2005, 05:41 PM
#10
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sitting In My EHTwo, CA
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: (neutron91)
door panel, where you open the door, that one screw that holds the cover in place.... screw wont screw in all the way.... what's wrong? wrong screw maybe? using screws that came with the car, screw has a washer at the top near the head of the screw.. is this the right screw? because it's not passing 2 rotations... 
07-16-2005, 05:52 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: WI, US
Posts: 2,963
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (fms1day)
Manual Door Tracks:
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
FIX: A pain in the ***. Usually have to purchase a new track or you can atempt to fix it yourself, which is a whole thread in its own.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
FIX: Not sure how you fix this, since quite a few eg's do this.
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
FIX: A pain in the ***. Usually have to purchase a new track or you can atempt to fix it yourself, which is a whole thread in its own.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
FIX: Not sure how you fix this, since quite a few eg's do this.
07-16-2005, 05:53 PM
#13
Re: (LSEGHATCH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSEGHATCH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Manual Door Tracks:
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not going to post the HOW TO fix part of it?
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not going to post the HOW TO fix part of it?
07-16-2005, 05:56 PM
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SoCal, USA
Posts: 2,462
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (LSEGHATCH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSEGHATCH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Manual Door Tracks:
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahah so true!!!
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahah so true!!!
07-17-2005, 02:58 AM
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 3,169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (LSEGHATCH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSEGHATCH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Manual Door Tracks:
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
FIX: A pain in the ***. Usually have to purchase a new track or you can atempt to fix it yourself, which is a whole thread in its own.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
FIX: Not sure how you fix this, since quite a few eg's do this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seems like the stock eg clusters seem to fluxuate more than integra clusters. Maybe swapping out the cluster for an integra one may help?
Can become bent and cause window to fall out of the track.
FIX: A pain in the ***. Usually have to purchase a new track or you can atempt to fix it yourself, which is a whole thread in its own.
Gas Gauge:
Inaccurate; fluxuates greatly when turning, accelerating, or merging on the highway. Also can read wrong giving you less/more than what the gauge shows.
FIX: Not sure how you fix this, since quite a few eg's do this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seems like the stock eg clusters seem to fluxuate more than integra clusters. Maybe swapping out the cluster for an integra one may help?
07-17-2005, 03:00 AM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 3,169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (xtremeazian)
The interior door locking tabs on egs seem to be very fragile. The part was expensive at the dealer so I ended up getting door lock actuators and never needed to flip the tabs again.
07-17-2005, 09:33 AM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: sac916, dyess afb, tx, usa
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
our gas tanks use some floater thingy and when u turn it gets splashed around thats why it fluctuates....every guy i know with a civic does this
07-17-2005, 10:43 AM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah right hand turn it goes down left it goes up.. also i think the bobber is in the center of the tank cause accelerating fast and braking fast both cause the guage to go down..
so the bobble must be in the center of the tank on the right hand side
maybe a fix could be to put a reading delay on the guage so it only reads every minute or so... this way it wont be moved when turning
Power Moonroof: anyone else with an EG with a power moonroof have problems? i think mines dying lol sometimes i have to give it a nudge to make it wanna open
Loose Shifter: space between 1st and 5th gear is massive.. from driver leg to passenger leg
so the bobble must be in the center of the tank on the right hand side
maybe a fix could be to put a reading delay on the guage so it only reads every minute or so... this way it wont be moved when turning
Power Moonroof: anyone else with an EG with a power moonroof have problems? i think mines dying lol sometimes i have to give it a nudge to make it wanna open
Loose Shifter: space between 1st and 5th gear is massive.. from driver leg to passenger leg
07-17-2005, 01:51 PM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Posts: 872
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (hatchi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my gas gauge just told me i used a half tank when i drove 36 miles </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yo junk broke son!
Yo junk broke son!
07-17-2005, 07:10 PM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: WI, US
Posts: 2,963
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (hatchi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how bout tranny grinds when shifting in high rpms. Usually happens when you start speed shifting at high rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably because Honda tranny's weren't made for speed shifting.......
.......just a thought
Probably because Honda tranny's weren't made for speed shifting.......
.......just a thought
07-17-2005, 07:24 PM
#24
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (neutron91)
Is this true? It is a totally free fix? i hate how mine do not always retract. hell my fiance slammed the door onto the buckle today, with the door poping right back open. god that was a bad noise.
07-17-2005, 08:34 PM
#25
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Yulan, N.Y
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: [FAQ]Common problems for 92-95 Civics, and how to prevent/fix (vg7z)
Reverse gear grinding in idle, I usually rev to 1200 before shifting into reverse. Happens in both my 94 and 95 ex.
