gtarrgh

Just a note specific to the VX, that the Bosch 02 sensor does not work. You need the NGK 5 wire sensor for $150+.

This one



Thanks for all of your informative posts, by the way.

lostforawhile

Gates makes OEM timing belts for Honda, no point in buying oem and paying more for the same thing, I wanted to update that info

psychobear

iTrader: (1)

Anybody have recommendations on clutch master cylinder for a 92 civic DX

Need to replace mine and I'm trying to stay away from autozone stuff

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

You're welcome! Never go Bosch for any Honda sensor or spark plug. Only Denso or NTK/NGK.

Yes, that is why I recommend Gates for the timing belt. Other belts are by Bando or Mitsuboshi.

Try to find a reman'd NISSIN one. You'll be fine.

94 accord typeR

nice thread u can find lots of Ishino aftermarket Honda parts on carparts.com

strykrmas

Great info here...
Here in Trinidad we use Sankei(555) and Bando. these hold out really well.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

hello - what's everyone doing for 92 civic fenders these days?

also, any good recommendations for distributors?

shotoutacc0rd

I like world power systems distributors. And you'l be hard pressed to find aftermarket fenders that have any sort of quality. You should try finding nice fenders on a junkyard car, they'l cost the same or less and they'l be the same color unless your car was repainted already

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Any recommended retailers for the distributors?

It's hard to find fenders in the junkyard that aren't already ruined. I've been looking for months.

shotoutacc0rd

I get mine from rockauto

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

MadVladCivic

If you are into re-building your CV half shafts, my boot clamp of
choice is the ear clamp:

Oetiker

Its easy to size and easy to close w/ a pair of end nippers. Aftermarket
boot kits come w/ various types of clamps. My last Moog kit came w/
a large ear type clamp and small band clamp that required a specialized
tool to hold tension on the band while smacking it w/ a punch. I finally
found a small Oetiker (made by Dorman) at Advance Auto.

I have finally found a reliable distributor of various sizes of Oetiker
ear clamps among other things:

Belmetric.com

Honda tranny crush washers (18 x 26 x 2) for about 39c. Got
my trial order in 2 business days.

taco_hut

I have a complete moog front suspension, the only things that aren't moog in my front end are spindles, shocks, subframe, and axles. When I get shocks the only thing that wont be life time guaranteed would be the spindles and subframe. Its nice piece of mind knowing I can be anywhere in the country, jump over a curb, drive to advance, and fix the car for free

after a few months the moog **** is still happy. I hope the bushings hold up for quite a while.

but moog makes axle stuff too? Are you talking about just the boots or also the joints? I'm gonna rebuild the axles that came out of that car when I put in shitty advanced auto axles (they're brand new and they click ((advanced autoparts axles are not good!)) and I want them to be as good as the axles Honda wants hundreds of dollars for

MadVladCivic

I'm talking about the boot kit for the CV shaft. The Moog kit
contained one ear-type clamp and one band type that required
a specialized tool.

To rebuild the outer CV joint completely would require new bearing
***** and complete cleaning of the old grease inside the bearing race.

I got my CV shaft from O'Reilly's delivered. Been in over a yr and
no issues. Rebuilt the old one so I have a spare. Will likely have
to re-boot the driver's side outer joint sometime next yr as the boot
has a small tear.

I bought addtl ear clamps to put on the steering bellows that I
will be replacing this weekend!

TomCat39

Hi deschlong, I noticed your concern over Brembo due to manufacturing moving to China.

Not sure if this helps, but they are using QS-9000 and ISO 9001 certified manufacturers. This certification requires pretty significant quality controls in place to maintain certification. From what I understand it's not easy to obtain this certification.

I think the question is whether Brembo is requiring the same specifications for their products that they did when they were producing in Italy.

If they still require the same specification, then the above noted certification means that it's the same quality even though it's not manufactured in Italy any more.

And thanks for the informative parts information. Looks like Sankei 555 is a decent alternative for lower ball joints.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

After watching this vid, I bought these Pro Grade Ball joints and worth every penny.

**Description starts at 2:00

TomCat39

I was thinking about going that route but then I looked up their warranty (they say it's the best in the industry) and found it's a 2 year X amount of kilometer warranty.

Supposedly Moog is a lifetime warranty.

I'm thinking about contacting them and seeing if I can get their warranty in writing so I know exactly what it is.

Been looking at site after site trying to find out about Moog's "warranty" and finding all kinds of complaints and fails and even refusal to warranty the end consumer from 2010 on up. Many people say their quality has gone down significantly in the last few years.

On Raybestos warranty they cover labor or at least a percentage of it which is more than I can say of any of the other brands out there on the aftermarket sites.

Looks like that will be the way I will go as it's twice as long of a warranty as the Sankei 555's for about the same price.

tony_2018

I have to ask, what is that nipple for in on the top of the ball joint? Is it to relube it?

TomCat39

Yeah it's a grease fitting. The ones they make for the 5th gen civic don't have it and so are considered sealed ball joints.

Usually they put grease fittings on joints for trucks and vans as they usually take a harder beating than a passenger car.

Back in the day a typical truck had at least 13 points of lubrication, 4 of which were the upper and lower ball joints.

Now a days though, they are sealed until you replace them and then they have a grease fitting allowing for periodic lubrication.

94EG8

Moog ball joints are the biggest piece of junk I've ever used for balljoints, on anything I've used them on. I seriously don't understand why they seem to get so much love. They have a terrible boot design for most of the ones I've seen, they don't last any better than the cheap aftermarket (sometimes they're worse) and as far as being greasable goes, 99% of people with either never grease them or pump way to much grease in them. The OEM Honda sealed balljoints on the other hand last great.

TomCat39

After a bit of research, I have come to believe Contitech Timing Belts are of high quality and are cheaper than OEM.

They make OEM belts for many European manufacturers like Audi BMW and others.

Mine is German made and I suspect that they are still spending money on research to improve materials used and longevity of the belts.

They might even be an upgrade to the OEM belt as Honda is not likely continuing to do research into the belts of a 20 year old car, the specs are set and that is it.

I did a lot of research and could not find a negative for them at all. So if you don't want to spend an arm and a leg on OEM or a Gates belt, then you might want to consider the Contitech as a quality alternative.

kokopelli

When changing the timing belt on the 97 Crv, I bought a Gates belt, of course. I struggled for hours trying to get it to line up with the teeth on the gears. After a full day of labor, taking it off for the second time after buttoning everything up, I gave up. The next day I bought an aftermarket belt from autozone, put it in with no trouble whatsoever. I measured both- the Gates 'oem' belt was 1/4" or more too short!

Brandon Jones

Awesome!

TomCat39

When I was researching ball joints, there was quality feedback for TRW ball joints. They seemed to be one of the few aftermarkets that tended to last unlike most the other brands.

So... I ordered TRW ball joints for my civic and there are some details I think I should share. They do not use a circlip to hold them in like most other after market ball joints do. They are more like OEM and do the straight pressed in fitment.

The one major difference is they don't use a castle nut. There is no provisions for a castle nut. Instead they utilize a self locking nut and loctite is recommended in conjunction with that. I personally plan on using loctite blue so a micro torch can free up the loctite in the future. The red is high heat resistant so makes things that much more challenging to remove.

There is a alan key (hex key) inlay on the end of the shaft to allow you to prevent it from spinning when you go to remove the nut later on down the road as can be seen in the pic below.

As far as I can tell and by all the user reviews, TRW ball joints appear to be high quality and explains the increase in cost over others, yet still less expensive to OEM at the dealer.

Hope someone finds this helpful.

tmcisaac

Thanks for this post and the effort you put into it. I have a 97 civic that I plan to keep running for several more years. Bought it new and it's still running good. Plan to use only OEM parts whenever possible. Would have used a dealer if I had to, but will now checkout this rockauto site that you recommended Again Thanks