piscorpio

Lets compare apples to apples guys. I have no doubts that there are ITR and GSR's boosting with success, but these are superior engines. That is not opinion, that is fact, I love the thought of making my d16 fast, but I know the B series has the better technology and design.

skhonda

How much do you plan on boosting with your setup that it would require new pistons? Also hen you say "making your d16 fast", just how fast do you have in mind, because your goals can be achieved... it just comes down to whether or not you have the determination or resources required though...

Broken Gearbox

how much boost can the stock block of a d15b1 handle?

piscorpio

As I mentioned earlier, I don't really plan to run anything over 15psi. I would like to run that daily, so durability is going to be an issue (not a track only 15 and 8 on the street kind of thing.) As far as how fast? Not really sure, I know I want 13's or the project is a failure. Based on what I have researched, 13's are attainable with a boosted d16 and 15psi should be more than enough to get it there.

Also, I am not sure if I require new pistons or not, thats what I have been trying to ascertain. I know the d16 rods are weak, and probably the weakest point of the engine, so it would probably be wise to strengthen this area at the very least. My question is just whether that is enough. I have had someone with experience boosting the d series tell me it probably should work, but tuning is very important of course.

For some reason, I am really stuck on the VX piston idea. Turbo application pistons are usually dished or flat top, and the VX pistons are dished, just seems to be ideal. I guess I am obsessed now.

Spade

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sure about that? Especially considering that SI/GSRs are over 10:1 CR stock and people seem to be doing mild boost setups without any probs. I would think that 10:1 - 10.5:1 CR with around 6psi and proper fuel would be fine and not too terribly difficult.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I saw a stock ITR running a Greddy Turbo at 7psi. I have heard that 10.5:1 isn't that hard to boost on, but I don't have any actual experience with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry guys.....Cali 91 Octane here so I think you can see where I am coming from.

kommon_sense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piscorpio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lets compare apples to apples guys. I have no doubts that there are ITR and GSR's boosting with success, but these are superior engines. That is not opinion, that is fact, I love the thought of making my d16 fast, but I know the B series has the better technology and design.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No argument there. However I would think that 6-7psi @10.5:1CR should still be well within the safe range on a d16. Remember if you calculate the effective compression then 6psi@10.5:1 is about the same as 8psi@9.6:1. So it should still be within the safe daily driver range with decent tuning.

piscorpio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No argument there. However I would think that 6-7psi @10.5:1CR should still be well within the safe range on a d16. Remember if you calculate the effective compression then 6psi@10.5:1 is about the same as 8psi@9.6:1. So it should still be within the safe daily driver range with decent tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is just like Spade said earlier, there is less room for error with high comp. & boost. It is an interesting idea and I don't doubt it could be done, but I don't know if it would be the wise choice for a "budget" setup. Plus, if your calculations of the effective compression are correct, why not just run 8-10psi on a well tuned stock CR (how much of a power gain would 10.5:1 + 6psi have over 10psi + 9.6:1)? I like the flow of ideas in this thread, good discussion!

nd8ch

if you have a low CR with high boost compared to high CR with low boost...would you spool faster and rely less on boost?

And do rods on a d16 go out before the stock head gasket?

on thread

I pick up my FPR tomorrow, yippidee skipidee. Im gonna tune the a/f ratio about ~12, i had a dream i did this and felt an increase in power...would it?

shorti

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd8ch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are two radiators that you can use for the Civic; there is the Del Sol, which is a dual core. Or it has two cooling cores, one in front of the other. And the other is the Integra. You have to make custom mounts but you will have your needed cooling for sure. Or, spend stupid amounts of money ($400) on an aftermarket radiator that is a very efficient aluminum kind.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

for us ED/EF/EE guys you can also use a first gen Neon radiator. Non A/C Standard.
it's half as wide but i don't know how much thicker it is

JaeOne3345

or you can use an automatic civic radiator. dual core like the del sole vtec. i run one.

piscorpio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd8ch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a low CR with high boost compared to high CR with low boost...would you spool faster and rely less on boost?

And do rods on a d16 go out before the stock head gasket?

on thread

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good questions. I wonder the same thing, and what would a good headgasket upgrade be? As far as spool up, I thought just the opposite, that high CR would net a faster spool up, I could be wrong?

kommon_sense

My understanding is that the increased compression would cause the turbo to spool a little faster and you would have more torque down low before the turbo spooled (again, due to the higher compression).

madhatch

stock d series usually nothing above 6 psi.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock d series usually nothing above 6 psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

??? more like 8-10psi

piscorpio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My understanding is that the increased compression would cause the turbo to spool a little faster and you would have more torque down low before the turbo spooled (again, due to the higher compression).</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I thought. Now that I think about it though, how much low end gain will you really see? I mean these engines aren't exactly low rpm torque beasts in the first place (and they still aren't, even when built up NA). I guess that really is the question then, is the low end gain from raising the CR worth the extra care in tuning and decreased boost levels?

TurboTeG4

Ok for reasons unknown a b18c1 turbo dream is floating in my head.
This is what im running
D16Z6 $600
Gude Turbo Head w/Cam, intake $1100
Greddy Turbo w/sm Intercooler $2600 w/shipping
Gude Throttle Body $135
Nology Wires w/ MSD Ignition /coil $260
PWR Radiator w/ Oil Cooler $280
RC 440 cc Injectors w/fuel reg/Vafc $790
Cam Gear /Underdrive pulleys $200
Blitz Blowoff /elec.boost contrl $480
ACT Clutch $300
etc. about roughly 6,745 some shipping costs not in there
I make a measly 181 whp at 9psi and 188 whp at 10psi
Well do I ditch this thing for a b18c1 and turbo that or do a bottom end build up with pistons and rods and waste more money on this thing. Also im sure the greddy maxes out and spikes at 15psi boost so I would prob have to change the turbo out for even more money. I realize some use standalone management and get like 220 whp by using hondata, well they dont hondata program here on maui. So aem would be my only option for another 1200 bucks, Ive spent so much cash on this motor and not getting what i truly desire. If i were to start from the beggining all over i would clearly have gone boosted b18c1. But now in my situation what do u think i should do. 6745 bucks is a lot for a measly 188 whp, this was a learning exp as i have the motor turbo'd since 1997

RyanEJ8

You spent too much money on the Gude head, you should have got the AEM with that.

piscorpio

Damn, with all that stuff, you should have much better numbers. You need to get it tuned or something. There have been people claiming numbers higher than that with less.

Broken Gearbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbocivic4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok for reasons unknown a b18c1 turbo dream is floating in my head.
This is what im running
D16Z6 $600
Gude Turbo Head w/Cam, intake $1100
Greddy Turbo w/sm Intercooler $2600 w/shipping
Gude Throttle Body $135
Nology Wires w/ MSD Ignition /coil $260
PWR Radiator w/ Oil Cooler $280
RC 440 cc Injectors w/fuel reg/Vafc $790
Cam Gear /Underdrive pulleys $200
Blitz Blowoff /elec.boost contrl $480
ACT Clutch $300
etc. about roughly 6,745 some shipping costs not in there
I make a measly 181 whp at 9psi and 188 whp at 10psi
Well do I ditch this thing for a b18c1 and turbo that or do a bottom end build up with pistons and rods and waste more money on this thing. Also im sure the greddy maxes out and spikes at 15psi boost so I would prob have to change the turbo out for even more money. I realize some use standalone management and get like 220 whp by using hondata, well they dont hondata program here on maui. So aem would be my only option for another 1200 bucks, Ive spent so much cash on this motor and not getting what i truly desire. If i were to start from the beggining all over i would clearly have gone boosted b18c1. But now in my situation what do u think i should do. 6745 bucks is a lot for a measly 188 whp, this was a learning exp as i have the motor turbo'd since 1997
</TD></TR></TABLE>

These prices seem way to high...and the ignition stuff...pulleies...and all that GUDE stuff was a waste of money ...if you $6745 dollars in a D16Z6 and got only ~190HP

piscorpio

Hindsight is 20/20, but it still seems like he has a good setup on paper, it might just be a matter of tuning and getting every component working together properly. And honestly, with all the parts and upgrades on it, it seems silly not to have some kind of standalone engine management.

Just curious, why did you decide to work the head instead of the block first?

TurboTeG4

Oh i did it because my headgasket blew unexpectedly and i figure i throw on a head same time. Didnt have funds to do it all but i guess the bottom end would have gone cheaper now that u ask me but then again that was done years ago.
I knoow i couldnt get half the money back for my engine if i go b18 way or just go further with the d16.

Spade

Seen Stock D16Y8's (engine not fuel or management) at 200 whp.

racerboyb18c1

Some companies that make regrinds are Hondasaver and Gude. I personally don’t like regrinds. They were stock cams that had material added then “reground” off.
<U></U>
this is not tru regrinding cams is just moving the centerline and takin material off the back of the lob and then when u adjust them again u gain lift and duration

rabbid

I have a 90 civic with a 1.5 d-series 16 valve. The question is this is it a d15A1? I am new to the honda scene and can't seem to keep all the engine #'s and letters straight. Would someone let me know.

clm

I was reading through this thread about the A1 piston and Y8 engine combinations and was hoping to find an older post about in which B18C5-EH2 and Mista Bone were replying to, but couldn't. It had some other useful information I was hoping to find.