[FAQ] Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms
02-25-2003, 10:04 PM
#1
Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms
I've had this rear disc swap in my garage forever now and finally had a chance to do it today since my work was closed due to snow and ice. This is a "How To" while retaining your factory trailing arms. The Integra trailing arms were bent and had ripped bushings so this is how I did it. Hopefully I help some of you out that have these rear swaps with bad trailing arms. Keep in mind this was all done using air tools.
Tools needed:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
17 mm socket
24 mm socket
Torx 50
10 mm open end wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
1. Put car in gear and put blocks behind wheels. Jack up rear of car and support on jack-stands. Then remove rear wheels.
2. Take philips head screw driver, pop cover off below e-brake handle and remove those two screws. Pull the console out of vehicle so you can now see e-brake cables. Make sure the e-brake is down and pull one cable at a time to the side and slip around and then pup up the **** looking thing that holds it in place. Unbolt the 2 12mm bolts that hold the e-brake cables in place and remove bracket.
3. Now with the top part of e-brake cables disconnected, take the ratchet with the 12 mm socket and start unbolting the rest of the e-brake cables. There are 2 bolts per cable on the body behind the fuel tank and 1 each on the trailing arms. Go ahead and pull the e-brake cables from the underbody so they are lying on the floor while still connected to the drums.
4. Now take your 10 mm open end wrench and undo the brake line that attaches to the body of the vehicle (inner fenderwell). Once the fitting is unscrewed, there is a tab that holds the brake line to the L-bracket. Use a ccrew driver to pry it out. The line should pull right out the bottom of the bracket.
5. Now take your 14 mm and take out the bolt that bolts the very end of the trailing arm (closest part towards door, not brake) to the body.
6. Take 17 mm and remove those 2 bolts that hold the trailing arm to the underside of body (with the bushing).
7. Support the trailing arm with your knee's while sitting indian style and remove the 14 mm bolt that connects to LCA and upper part of trailing arm. (there is no reason to remove sway bar or suspension. I did this all with sway bar, coilover, and JDM lca's still in place)
8. Trailing arm should come right off with drums and e-brake cables.
9. Now use flat head screw driver to seperate all the clips on the e-brake cable and remove them. You will need to remove the e-brake cables with the drums as one, hence the clips will not fit through the hole.
10. Flip whole assembly so drum is face down on the ground. You will notice the 24 mm nut in the middle and 4 holes around it. Down in those 4 holes are the Torx bolts. Take your Torx 50 and remove these. Be very careful not to strip, because you will be fucked if so. Once these 4 are removed, use the 24 mm and remove the center nut.
11. Now before moving anything, use 10 mm open end and remove brake line from back of drum and discard.
12. Now lift trailing arm off of drum and pull e-brake cable through hole.
13. You should be left with just the trailing arm so push the drum and e-brake cable aside because you will no longer need them.
14. Do the same removal precedure to the Rear disc brakes as you did with the drums. I removed the ABS sensor since I wouldn't be using it by unbolting the 4 10 mm bolts. Just take off cover and unbolt sensor and pull out.
15. As for install, it is the exact opposite of the removal. Just line up trailing arm correctly to back of disc assembly, put in Torx screws, 24 mm nut, run e-brake cable through hole, put clips on, and install.
Make sure to bleed the lines completely so there are no air bubbles, and the Teg m/c and prop valve is highly recommended. Oh and just so you all know all my stuff came off a 95 GSR and was put on a 92 CX hatch.
Hopefully I helped some of you guys out and hopefully my mind wasn't working faster than my hands. If you guys have any questions, please feel free to IM me or reply.
Tools needed:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
17 mm socket
24 mm socket
Torx 50
10 mm open end wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
1. Put car in gear and put blocks behind wheels. Jack up rear of car and support on jack-stands. Then remove rear wheels.
2. Take philips head screw driver, pop cover off below e-brake handle and remove those two screws. Pull the console out of vehicle so you can now see e-brake cables. Make sure the e-brake is down and pull one cable at a time to the side and slip around and then pup up the **** looking thing that holds it in place. Unbolt the 2 12mm bolts that hold the e-brake cables in place and remove bracket.
3. Now with the top part of e-brake cables disconnected, take the ratchet with the 12 mm socket and start unbolting the rest of the e-brake cables. There are 2 bolts per cable on the body behind the fuel tank and 1 each on the trailing arms. Go ahead and pull the e-brake cables from the underbody so they are lying on the floor while still connected to the drums.
4. Now take your 10 mm open end wrench and undo the brake line that attaches to the body of the vehicle (inner fenderwell). Once the fitting is unscrewed, there is a tab that holds the brake line to the L-bracket. Use a ccrew driver to pry it out. The line should pull right out the bottom of the bracket.
5. Now take your 14 mm and take out the bolt that bolts the very end of the trailing arm (closest part towards door, not brake) to the body.
6. Take 17 mm and remove those 2 bolts that hold the trailing arm to the underside of body (with the bushing).
7. Support the trailing arm with your knee's while sitting indian style and remove the 14 mm bolt that connects to LCA and upper part of trailing arm. (there is no reason to remove sway bar or suspension. I did this all with sway bar, coilover, and JDM lca's still in place)
8. Trailing arm should come right off with drums and e-brake cables.
9. Now use flat head screw driver to seperate all the clips on the e-brake cable and remove them. You will need to remove the e-brake cables with the drums as one, hence the clips will not fit through the hole.
10. Flip whole assembly so drum is face down on the ground. You will notice the 24 mm nut in the middle and 4 holes around it. Down in those 4 holes are the Torx bolts. Take your Torx 50 and remove these. Be very careful not to strip, because you will be fucked if so. Once these 4 are removed, use the 24 mm and remove the center nut.
11. Now before moving anything, use 10 mm open end and remove brake line from back of drum and discard.
12. Now lift trailing arm off of drum and pull e-brake cable through hole.
13. You should be left with just the trailing arm so push the drum and e-brake cable aside because you will no longer need them.
14. Do the same removal precedure to the Rear disc brakes as you did with the drums. I removed the ABS sensor since I wouldn't be using it by unbolting the 4 10 mm bolts. Just take off cover and unbolt sensor and pull out.
15. As for install, it is the exact opposite of the removal. Just line up trailing arm correctly to back of disc assembly, put in Torx screws, 24 mm nut, run e-brake cable through hole, put clips on, and install.
Make sure to bleed the lines completely so there are no air bubbles, and the Teg m/c and prop valve is highly recommended. Oh and just so you all know all my stuff came off a 95 GSR and was put on a 92 CX hatch.
Hopefully I helped some of you guys out and hopefully my mind wasn't working faster than my hands. If you guys have any questions, please feel free to IM me or reply.
02-26-2003, 06:47 AM
#3
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Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (CXHatchback)
Okay so basicaly you installed this using your stock hubs, with the integra disc brake assembly's?
02-26-2003, 11:36 AM
#4
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (lshatchturbo)
I'll try to post some pics up. I don't have a camera so I have to borrow one. And no, you don't use the factory hubs. You only retain the factory trailing arm. When you use the Torx 50 and the 24 mm to remove the assembly off the back of the trailing arm, everything comes off as one (hub assembly, wheel bearing, caliper, rotor, etc).
02-26-2003, 12:27 PM
#6
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (White Lightnin)
I believe so, but I'll have to check. My buddy has a 5-lug conversion so I'll have to see if the back of the arms are the same. I am pretty sure they are, but don't quote me on that.
02-26-2003, 12:36 PM
#7
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (JDMH22HATCH)
Very nice tech write up. I was planning on doing a GSR front and rear complete brake swap. I emailed Larry at IAS and he said the complete front and rear conversion would be $450 + $85 shipping. That seems a little steep to me but I know that everything from IAS is usually top notch so I might end up doing it.
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02-26-2003, 12:40 PM
#8
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (VTECVillain)
That sounds good. I know IAS has some pretty great quality parts and I heard their shipping is of amazing quality. I got mine for free so I didn't mind the bent trailing arms and torn bushings. But that's not bad for the fronts and rears. Is that including control arms, spindles, etc.?
02-26-2003, 02:01 PM
#9
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (JDMH22HATCH)
I don't think the control arms are included. It's the complete front spindle/hub assembly with calipers and all that. The rear includes the trailing arms, discs, calipers etc.
04-16-2003, 10:45 AM
#10
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (VTECVillain)
Sorry that this took so long, but I had to get a camera, and then the archives went down. So here are some basic pics to help with the install.
Here is a pic of the back of the trailing arm with the 4 holes where you need the torx screws and the center is where the shaft from the hub comes through.
And here's a pic of the torx bolt, as well as the back of the hub to show you the placement of how they relate to the trailing arm.
And of course the finished product.
I wish I had more pics of the install throughout the process, but if you guys need any help understanding, just let me know. Thanks
Here is a pic of the back of the trailing arm with the 4 holes where you need the torx screws and the center is where the shaft from the hub comes through.
And here's a pic of the torx bolt, as well as the back of the hub to show you the placement of how they relate to the trailing arm.
And of course the finished product.
I wish I had more pics of the install throughout the process, but if you guys need any help understanding, just let me know. Thanks
10-20-2003, 10:15 AM
#12
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (madtownhonda)
I just thought I would bring this back since I had received a few IM's about this recently.
** Also, this will work with any Del Sol, Civic, Integra 94 up, and DA tegs as long as you use your trailing arms with either SI or 94 up Teg e-brake cables.
** Also, this will work with any Del Sol, Civic, Integra 94 up, and DA tegs as long as you use your trailing arms with either SI or 94 up Teg e-brake cables.
10-20-2003, 11:21 AM
#13
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Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (JDMH22HATCH)
the hardest part of the swap is removing the e-brake cables and mounting the new ones up.
10-21-2003, 05:03 AM
#14
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Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (Evil_gambit33)
I was trying to find the axle swap post like this one.... I think their should be a "how to" section made on Honda-tech.com. That way people can go there for a quick reference or something... just a thought
10-21-2003, 05:11 AM
#15
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Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (CNY Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CNY Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was trying to find the axle swap post like this one.... I think their should be a "how to" section made on Honda-tech.com. That way people can go there for a quick reference or something... just a thought </TD></TR></TABLE>
Just post if you can't find it. I save all the how-to's in my bookmarks.
And thanks for getting some pics up. I think i'll be doing this instead of using my integra ones, since the part where the UCA bolts to on one of the trailing arms is bent.
Did you need to remove the trailing arm from the car to get to all those bolts?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Just post if you can't find it. I save all the how-to's in my bookmarks.
And thanks for getting some pics up. I think i'll be doing this instead of using my integra ones, since the part where the UCA bolts to on one of the trailing arms is bent.
Did you need to remove the trailing arm from the car to get to all those bolts?
10-21-2003, 10:17 AM
#16
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (CXHatchback)
I removed the trailing arm from the vehicle simply to be more careful with everything. If you strip out the Torx screws, then you're simply screwed. So I would recommend taking off the trailing arm to do all of the work.
Up to the top once again
10-30-2003, 10:12 AM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (JDMH22HATCH)
Cool, so the disk brake equipment does bolt up to the drum brake suspension! I thought that might be the case, I was looking thru the HELMS manual and they have the drum and SI disk setup bolting to the same suspension.
11-01-2003, 03:24 PM
#24
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Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (Yellow Dragon)
will trailing arms off of a 98-00 si coupe, non abs, go on a 92 cx hatch no problem? i did this conversion to my 2000 ex and was thinking about turning the car back to stock and transfering all the goodies to the hatch
11-26-2004, 11:48 AM
#25
Re: Rear Disc Conversion-How To-using factory trailing arms (suprfast)
I have tons of write ups. I just never really have time to post them and I forget to take half the pics during the process. Maybe I'll do another write up tonight. Thanks for the compliments