[FAQ] Power Windows, locks, Mirrors into EG Civic
11-24-2004, 07:45 AM
#1
[HOW-TO] Power Windows, Locks, Mirrors into EG Civic
This is a breakdown of the power windows, power locks, power mirrors install into an EG 92-95 civic 2 door. Sorry, I did not have a camera to take pictures unless yall would like to lend me one to do a How-To 
You can refer to this Install for pictures: Click me click me
If possible, take the whole doors like I did. If not this is what you'll need:
EX/SI door panels with switches
Power lock control box
Power window regulators
Power lock actuators (door latch assembly)
Power mirror switch
Power mirrors
Power window relay
Wire harness between door and body with grommets(one on each side)
Full door wire harness from each door (so you can plug up the switches and what not)
Wire harness that plugs into back of fuse panel (powers the windows, locks, mirrors)
Wire harness that plugs into back of power mirror switch
YOU CAN OBTAIN THESE PARTS FROM THESE MODEL CIVICS - EX, LX, Si
*PLEASE NOTE* I'm not fully sure if the parts from the LX Doors are the same but I would assume so. I know the LX switches are slightly different because they can control the rear windows. If you know if it is or not, please do tell me to avoid further misinformation and problems. I know LX wire harnesses work with EX doors because I'm using them right now. You'll have a couple wires left over--to control the rear windows--that you won't need
booooooo no more we-todd-did-racing!!!
My pictures: http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/...z/honda/power/
Red circle
This is the under dash wire harness
What’s part of the under dash wire harness—Power mirror switch (orange circle), power plug that plugs behind the fuse panel (green circle), body-door plug (yellow circle)
White circle
Consists of the driver side door wire harness, switches for locks and windows, plugs for window, lock, mirror, and door lock controller.
Sky blue circle
Lock controller – relay that controls the locking mechanism on doors. Attaches to the driver side door.
Blue circle
Passenger side door harness. Consists of window switch and plugs for the window, locks, and mirrors.
Yellow circle
This is what goes between the body and the driver side door.
Purple circle and line
This is what plugs into each other.
The person doing this write up did not use the wire harness that goes between the body and door for the passenger side. I used it when I did my swap.
Other stuff you need:
3 - 20A fuses
18g wire
16g wire
solder
solder stick
heat shrink crimps
electrical tape
WD-40/PB Blaster
Lithium grease
Tools:
Flathead screw driver
Philips screw driver (#3 & #2)
10mm socket
extension for ratchet
ratchet
wire stripper
wire cutters
Needle nose pliers
multimeter
Optional tools:
Power Drill
Drill bits
For the newbie Pick and Pull folks:
Make sure you come equipped to properly remove the stuff. Some of the stuff are hard to come by and it would behoove you to do it right and not mess it up. Also take note of the screws, nuts, bolts, and misc **** you remove.
Removing Power Mirrors:
You can remove the interior trim for the mirrors with the door panels on. I did it after I removed the door panels to be on the safe side. The trim is held on by a metal clip. It’s located in the mid-top. Holding the top, pull out and down. The lower part of the trim is held in by plastic clips. Yanking the trim straight out might cause the plastic clips to break off. Unplug the wire. Remove the 3 8mm nuts holding the power mirror.
Removing the door panel (driver side):
Get your philips screw driver and remove the screw holding the door release trim. You have to pull on the door release handle to expose and access the screw. Once you remove the trim, slide the trim backwards. There are little tabs in the back of the trim that help hold the trim and door panel onto the door frame. I see people just yank it out causing the tabs to break off. Then you will be able to remove the trim while maneuvering out the door release handle.
Remove the other screw in the door handle (the thing you hold onto to close the door.) The power window switch is part of the door handle. Now slide it back, remove, and unplug the wire from the back of the switch.
Get your flathead and pry out the door panels working from one side to the other. Other option here is to grasp the door panel and yank away. Sometimes the part holding the clips on the door panel will break off
Whichever way works for you. Once there is nothing hold the door panels on, pull up and slide it out of the window track area. There are wires hooked up to the door panel still (lock switch and tweeter) so you will have to unplug those. Remove the speaker and brackets. This will help with removal of wire harness and other stuff.
Pull back the plastic off to expose the inner door and parts. Remove the speaker and housing. This will help with remove of the main door harness from the door. Start disconnecting the plugs and wire harness from the door and remove. You are going to reuse the clips holding the wires to the doors so try not to damage them. Next, remove the lock controller. It his held in by two screws in the upper right of the driver side door. You can try and remove the plastic thing the screws screw into but it's going be a pain in the *** to remove unless you cut the metal around it.
Removing the window regulator:
Remove the speaker assembly and unplug the wire from the speaker. Do not cut the wires unless you want to splice up new wires for your speaker. If the window glass is still in one piece and you have no way to access the bolts holding the glass to the window regulator, you're going to have to remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the window leverage track. Remove the bolts one by one and keep a hand on the glass or else that ****'s going to fall unless the window came off track and is stuck. Slowly bring the window all the way down. Remove the two bolts holding the window glass to track. Pull window glass up and remove it and set it aside. Now remove the 4 bolts holding the window regulator to door. Remove the regulator out of the big hole on bottom left.
Removing the door lock actuator:
Disconnect the connecting rods from the lock actuator and move them aside. Remove the C-clip on the back of the key lock cylinder. Remove the plastic part from the key cylinder with the rod still attached. Now yank out the other rod that connects to the outer door release handle. It should pop out. If you cannot remove the rod, remove the outer door handle by taking out those 10mm bolts from inside the door. That will give you more room to work with. Take off the plastic piece where the rod attaches to the door handle assembly since you may want to use it later when you reinstall it on your door. Remove the lower bolt on the door holding the lower window track. Remove the lower track by pulling it away or moving it to aside. There are 3 screws holding the door lock actuator onto the door. You need a #2 philips to remove this and perhaps a power drill if it's in there good. If you don't have one, make sure you apply good force and remove it squarely or else you're going to end up stripping the head. One of the bolts for me was stuck in there so I had to drill it out
Removing the wire harness between the door and body:
What I did here was cut out the wires the best I could from inside the car and pull the harness out from inside. Remove the power window relay from the fuse panel as well as the power plug for the windows, mirrors, and locks. Do not cut any wires with plugs that are attached to the wire harness unless you feel like splicing them again. The passenger side is a bit of PITA to pull from the inside since the ECU, glove box, and blower are in the way. You can remove it from the outside if the fender is removed. I cut the wires from the inside long enough to give me some slack to work with and splice wires. You can remove the entire wiring harness and keep it intact, but I found it quite tedious to do since most of the interior of the LX was still intact.
Fender removal:
Open the hood and remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the fender on top. There is another 10mm bolt below the corner light. My bumper was off at the time so it made removal easier. Open the door and it will give you access to the top and bottom bolt. There is also a hidden bolt that's behind the side skirt. you will have to remove the fender liners and the front portion of the skirt to access it.
Now here comes the fun part....WIRING
Print out the wiring schematics found at the second page at the bottom of the top link provided: [url="http://repo.jackmoves.com/v/erik/albun31/albun42/]click me click me/url]
Here it's just a matter of matching up the color wires mostly.
You can go ahead and install the power mirror switch by removing the blank from the dash. Also plug up the wire harness to the switch if you like to right now.
Put the steering tilt all the way up and slide the front seats to the rear. Remove the lower dash panel via 3 screws. Under that, remove the knee bolster (metal plate) via 2 #3 philips screw. Now you have more room to work with.
Pull the harness between the door and body out into the inside of the car. In my DX it was only two wires for the speaker. Match up the wires on the new harness and splice them in. Same thing goes for the passenger side. If you're using new wire, which most of us do, make sure you label them! Use the same gauge wires so proper power is supplied to the parts. I cut my wires to about 8+ ft lengths. The length of the wire will vary depending on how much wire on the new harness is left and the route of wire. Solder what you spliced together and tape them up. You can crimp the wires or whatever way is best for you. Once you're done, run the wire harness through the body to the door. It's going to take some effort to do so. Make sure the grommet is in place or else water will leak in. Tape, zip tie, and secure the wires under the dash. Again, going through the fender will make it easier. a lot more work but easier.
The Passenger side wire harness uses different colors for the power mirrors than what’s on the power mirror switch. Match up the wires accordingly to what the wiring schematics say.
NOTE: I found out a few people had some problems wiring so I put together a small schematics:
passenger side power window:
Door to interior harness:
blue/red to blue/yellow
blue/white to blue/green
blue/black is the power wire that goes to passenger window regulator
driver side power window:
door to interior harness:
red/yellow to red/yellow
red/blue to red/blue
white/yellow is power wire for the driver window regulator
Black is ground. You can run separate grounds are just splice into one ground.
Running the passenger side harness through the body and out is going to take a lot of work. What I did was remove the glove box and ECU and stuffed the wire in. Other option would be is to not splice the passenger side harness to the driver side harness until after your removed the passenger side fender, run the wire out the body, splice the wires, and installed the passenger side harness to body.
Pre-installation:
Roll the windows all the way up. Push against the door panel and remove the retaining clip behind the window crank and remove it. Remove the door panels. Remove the plastic liner (if any). Clean up any caulk/silicone from the door that might be covering the holes for the new power regulator bolts. Remove the speaker and mounting brackets. Then attach the door harness using the old clips. Connect the door harness to the body harness. Grease up all moving parts on the new parts being swapped in to avoid any problems down the road.
Door latch install:
Remove the old latch assembly. The window must be up to remove it. Other option is to remove the manual regulator and window glass prior to latch assembly removal. Remember that you must remove the lower bolt and move the lower window track out of the way. Install new power latch. If you're having trouble putting in the arm/lever for the outer door handle, remove the outer door handle. Then remove the plastic piece on that arm and attach it to the outer door handle part. Reinstall the outer door handle. Now you should be able to pop the lever in place. Make sure the levers are where they should be and not snagging up on anything. Reinstall lower window track. Hook up levers and plug in connection.
Power regulator install:
Lower the window down and loosen the 2 10mm bolts holding the glass to window regulator. Push the window glass all the way up and have someone hold it will you remove the entire window regulator assembly. Install the new window regulator. Attach the 4 bolts that hold the window regulator in place. Then attach the leverage track of the window regulator via 2 10mm bolts making sure that the glass is set in with the regulator. Tighten the retaining bolts holding the glass to regulator. Hook up the plug from regulator to main door harness.
Power mirror install:
Remove the old mirror and install the mirror. Plug in wire and put trim back on.
Reinstall your speaker.
Repeat for opposite side door.
Testing to see if it works:
Plug up the power harness to the back of the fuse panel. Install the power window relay to fuse panel. Install the 3 20A fuses in the specified slots on the fuse panel. Hook up the wires to the switches and door panels. Turn the ignition to on and test for functionality. Everything should work if you know the parts are good and did everything right. If something is not working. Start troubleshooting by working backwards. Usually it’s a loose plug or connection unless you ****ed up in the beginning with matching wires…then you’re screwed. Bust out your multimeter and check. Turn on the stereo and make sure the speakers and tweeters (if equipped) are working.
If everything is working properly, install your door panels, knee bolster, lower dash panel, glove box, ECU and any other stuff you removed for this installation.
No more reaching over to roll down the window, adjusting the mirror, and locking and unlocking the damn door! Also you get a little storage pocket too
I had a longer write up but my little brother closed my document and didn’t save it. I know I’m missing a few details and I’ll post up when it comes to mind. If you see something I’m missing, doesn't make any sense, or have a question, leave a comment and I’ll fix it asap. ENJOY
You can refer to this Install for pictures: Click me click meIf possible, take the whole doors like I did. If not this is what you'll need:
EX/SI door panels with switches
Power lock control box
Power window regulators
Power lock actuators (door latch assembly)
Power mirror switch
Power mirrors
Power window relay
Wire harness between door and body with grommets(one on each side)
Full door wire harness from each door (so you can plug up the switches and what not)
Wire harness that plugs into back of fuse panel (powers the windows, locks, mirrors)
Wire harness that plugs into back of power mirror switch
YOU CAN OBTAIN THESE PARTS FROM THESE MODEL CIVICS - EX, LX, Si
*PLEASE NOTE* I'm not fully sure if the parts from the LX Doors are the same but I would assume so. I know the LX switches are slightly different because they can control the rear windows. If you know if it is or not, please do tell me to avoid further misinformation and problems. I know LX wire harnesses work with EX doors because I'm using them right now. You'll have a couple wires left over--to control the rear windows--that you won't need
booooooo no more we-todd-did-racing!!!My pictures: http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/...z/honda/power/
Red circle
This is the under dash wire harness
What’s part of the under dash wire harness—Power mirror switch (orange circle), power plug that plugs behind the fuse panel (green circle), body-door plug (yellow circle)
White circle
Consists of the driver side door wire harness, switches for locks and windows, plugs for window, lock, mirror, and door lock controller.
Sky blue circle
Lock controller – relay that controls the locking mechanism on doors. Attaches to the driver side door.
Blue circle
Passenger side door harness. Consists of window switch and plugs for the window, locks, and mirrors.
Yellow circle
This is what goes between the body and the driver side door.
Purple circle and line
This is what plugs into each other.
The person doing this write up did not use the wire harness that goes between the body and door for the passenger side. I used it when I did my swap.
Other stuff you need:
3 - 20A fuses
18g wire
16g wire
solder
solder stick
heat shrink crimps
electrical tape
WD-40/PB Blaster
Lithium grease
Tools:
Flathead screw driver
Philips screw driver (#3 & #2)
10mm socket
extension for ratchet
ratchet
wire stripper
wire cutters
Needle nose pliers
multimeter
Optional tools:
Power Drill
Drill bits
For the newbie Pick and Pull folks:
Make sure you come equipped to properly remove the stuff. Some of the stuff are hard to come by and it would behoove you to do it right and not mess it up. Also take note of the screws, nuts, bolts, and misc **** you remove.
Removing Power Mirrors:
You can remove the interior trim for the mirrors with the door panels on. I did it after I removed the door panels to be on the safe side. The trim is held on by a metal clip. It’s located in the mid-top. Holding the top, pull out and down. The lower part of the trim is held in by plastic clips. Yanking the trim straight out might cause the plastic clips to break off. Unplug the wire. Remove the 3 8mm nuts holding the power mirror.
Removing the door panel (driver side):
Get your philips screw driver and remove the screw holding the door release trim. You have to pull on the door release handle to expose and access the screw. Once you remove the trim, slide the trim backwards. There are little tabs in the back of the trim that help hold the trim and door panel onto the door frame. I see people just yank it out causing the tabs to break off. Then you will be able to remove the trim while maneuvering out the door release handle.
Remove the other screw in the door handle (the thing you hold onto to close the door.) The power window switch is part of the door handle. Now slide it back, remove, and unplug the wire from the back of the switch.
Get your flathead and pry out the door panels working from one side to the other. Other option here is to grasp the door panel and yank away. Sometimes the part holding the clips on the door panel will break off
Whichever way works for you. Once there is nothing hold the door panels on, pull up and slide it out of the window track area. There are wires hooked up to the door panel still (lock switch and tweeter) so you will have to unplug those. Remove the speaker and brackets. This will help with removal of wire harness and other stuff.Pull back the plastic off to expose the inner door and parts. Remove the speaker and housing. This will help with remove of the main door harness from the door. Start disconnecting the plugs and wire harness from the door and remove. You are going to reuse the clips holding the wires to the doors so try not to damage them. Next, remove the lock controller. It his held in by two screws in the upper right of the driver side door. You can try and remove the plastic thing the screws screw into but it's going be a pain in the *** to remove unless you cut the metal around it.
Removing the window regulator:
Remove the speaker assembly and unplug the wire from the speaker. Do not cut the wires unless you want to splice up new wires for your speaker. If the window glass is still in one piece and you have no way to access the bolts holding the glass to the window regulator, you're going to have to remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the window leverage track. Remove the bolts one by one and keep a hand on the glass or else that ****'s going to fall unless the window came off track and is stuck.
Slowly bring the window all the way down. Remove the two bolts holding the window glass to track. Pull window glass up and remove it and set it aside. Now remove the 4 bolts holding the window regulator to door. Remove the regulator out of the big hole on bottom left. Removing the door lock actuator:
Disconnect the connecting rods from the lock actuator and move them aside. Remove the C-clip on the back of the key lock cylinder. Remove the plastic part from the key cylinder with the rod still attached. Now yank out the other rod that connects to the outer door release handle. It should pop out. If you cannot remove the rod, remove the outer door handle by taking out those 10mm bolts from inside the door. That will give you more room to work with. Take off the plastic piece where the rod attaches to the door handle assembly since you may want to use it later when you reinstall it on your door. Remove the lower bolt on the door holding the lower window track. Remove the lower track by pulling it away or moving it to aside. There are 3 screws holding the door lock actuator onto the door. You need a #2 philips to remove this and perhaps a power drill if it's in there good. If you don't have one, make sure you apply good force and remove it squarely or else you're going to end up stripping the head. One of the bolts for me was stuck in there so I had to drill it out
Removing the wire harness between the door and body:
What I did here was cut out the wires the best I could from inside the car and pull the harness out from inside. Remove the power window relay from the fuse panel as well as the power plug for the windows, mirrors, and locks. Do not cut any wires with plugs that are attached to the wire harness unless you feel like splicing them again. The passenger side is a bit of PITA to pull from the inside since the ECU, glove box, and blower are in the way. You can remove it from the outside if the fender is removed. I cut the wires from the inside long enough to give me some slack to work with and splice wires. You can remove the entire wiring harness and keep it intact, but I found it quite tedious to do since most of the interior of the LX was still intact.
Fender removal:
Open the hood and remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the fender on top. There is another 10mm bolt below the corner light. My bumper was off at the time so it made removal easier. Open the door and it will give you access to the top and bottom bolt. There is also a hidden bolt that's behind the side skirt. you will have to remove the fender liners and the front portion of the skirt to access it.
Now here comes the fun part....WIRING
Print out the wiring schematics found at the second page at the bottom of the top link provided: [url="http://repo.jackmoves.com/v/erik/albun31/albun42/]click me click me/url]
Here it's just a matter of matching up the color wires mostly.
You can go ahead and install the power mirror switch by removing the blank from the dash. Also plug up the wire harness to the switch if you like to right now.
Put the steering tilt all the way up and slide the front seats to the rear. Remove the lower dash panel via 3 screws. Under that, remove the knee bolster (metal plate) via 2 #3 philips screw. Now you have more room to work with.
Pull the harness between the door and body out into the inside of the car. In my DX it was only two wires for the speaker. Match up the wires on the new harness and splice them in. Same thing goes for the passenger side. If you're using new wire, which most of us do, make sure you label them! Use the same gauge wires so proper power is supplied to the parts. I cut my wires to about 8+ ft lengths. The length of the wire will vary depending on how much wire on the new harness is left and the route of wire. Solder what you spliced together and tape them up. You can crimp the wires or whatever way is best for you. Once you're done, run the wire harness through the body to the door. It's going to take some effort to do so. Make sure the grommet is in place or else water will leak in. Tape, zip tie, and secure the wires under the dash. Again, going through the fender will make it easier. a lot more work but easier.
The Passenger side wire harness uses different colors for the power mirrors than what’s on the power mirror switch. Match up the wires accordingly to what the wiring schematics say.
NOTE: I found out a few people had some problems wiring so I put together a small schematics:
passenger side power window:
Door to interior harness:
blue/red to blue/yellow
blue/white to blue/green
blue/black is the power wire that goes to passenger window regulator
driver side power window:
door to interior harness:
red/yellow to red/yellow
red/blue to red/blue
white/yellow is power wire for the driver window regulator
Black is ground. You can run separate grounds are just splice into one ground.
Running the passenger side harness through the body and out is going to take a lot of work. What I did was remove the glove box and ECU and stuffed the wire in. Other option would be is to not splice the passenger side harness to the driver side harness until after your removed the passenger side fender, run the wire out the body, splice the wires, and installed the passenger side harness to body.
Pre-installation:
Roll the windows all the way up. Push against the door panel and remove the retaining clip behind the window crank and remove it. Remove the door panels. Remove the plastic liner (if any). Clean up any caulk/silicone from the door that might be covering the holes for the new power regulator bolts. Remove the speaker and mounting brackets. Then attach the door harness using the old clips. Connect the door harness to the body harness. Grease up all moving parts on the new parts being swapped in to avoid any problems down the road.
Door latch install:
Remove the old latch assembly. The window must be up to remove it. Other option is to remove the manual regulator and window glass prior to latch assembly removal. Remember that you must remove the lower bolt and move the lower window track out of the way. Install new power latch. If you're having trouble putting in the arm/lever for the outer door handle, remove the outer door handle. Then remove the plastic piece on that arm and attach it to the outer door handle part. Reinstall the outer door handle. Now you should be able to pop the lever in place. Make sure the levers are where they should be and not snagging up on anything. Reinstall lower window track. Hook up levers and plug in connection.
Power regulator install:
Lower the window down and loosen the 2 10mm bolts holding the glass to window regulator. Push the window glass all the way up and have someone hold it will you remove the entire window regulator assembly. Install the new window regulator. Attach the 4 bolts that hold the window regulator in place. Then attach the leverage track of the window regulator via 2 10mm bolts making sure that the glass is set in with the regulator. Tighten the retaining bolts holding the glass to regulator. Hook up the plug from regulator to main door harness.
Power mirror install:
Remove the old mirror and install the mirror. Plug in wire and put trim back on.
Reinstall your speaker.
Repeat for opposite side door.
Testing to see if it works:
Plug up the power harness to the back of the fuse panel. Install the power window relay to fuse panel. Install the 3 20A fuses in the specified slots on the fuse panel. Hook up the wires to the switches and door panels. Turn the ignition to on and test for functionality. Everything should work if you know the parts are good and did everything right. If something is not working. Start troubleshooting by working backwards. Usually it’s a loose plug or connection unless you ****ed up in the beginning with matching wires…then you’re screwed. Bust out your multimeter and check. Turn on the stereo and make sure the speakers and tweeters (if equipped) are working.
If everything is working properly, install your door panels, knee bolster, lower dash panel, glove box, ECU and any other stuff you removed for this installation.
No more reaching over to roll down the window, adjusting the mirror, and locking and unlocking the damn door! Also you get a little storage pocket too
I had a longer write up but my little brother closed my document and didn’t save it. I know I’m missing a few details and I’ll post up when it comes to mind. If you see something I’m missing, doesn't make any sense, or have a question, leave a comment and I’ll fix it asap. ENJOY
Last edited by Cuong-nutz; 06-18-2009 at 10:02 PM.
11-24-2004, 08:30 AM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
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Re: [FAQ] Power Windows, locks, Mirrors into EG Civic (Cuong-nutz)
Nice write up. I was going to do this in my other eg but i sold it.
free bump, someone get this guy a camera
free bump, someone get this guy a camera
11-24-2004, 08:34 AM
#3
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Re: [FAQ] Power Windows, locks, Mirrors into EG Civic (green00EX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green00EX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice write up. I was going to do this in my other eg but i sold it.
free bump, someone get this guy a camera </TD></TR></TABLE>
free bump, someone get this guy a camera
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Trending Topics
11-29-2004, 09:15 AM
#8
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Canada
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Re: (TurboBumblBee)
I have seen this: "http://repo.jackmoves.com/albun42?page=2" link before a little while back. My car came with an alarm and only a driver side power door lock off the alarms remote, from the person i bought it from. I want to add the passenger side power lock to the remote. so i am pretty sure i need another relay for that and everything that applys above. I will probably gather some parts over the winter and do this in the spring 
Your write up helped explain better, but like you mentioned...PICS!!! lol. we have been spoiled by honda-techs past write ups..i feel they are to blame
Good Job!
Your write up helped explain better, but like you mentioned...PICS!!! lol. we have been spoiled by honda-techs past write ups..i feel they are to blame
Good Job!
11-29-2004, 10:40 AM
#9
Join Date: May 2004
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Re: (gunnis)
Quick question i am wondering what car i should get the inside door handle\acuator from. I have a canadian 93 SI coupe that has no power door locks. Will handles from a 4dr work?
Me and "Cuong-nutz" talked a little and were still sunsure. Thanx for the help.
Me and "Cuong-nutz" talked a little and were still sunsure. Thanx for the help.
11-29-2004, 03:28 PM
#12
Re: (gunnis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have seen this: "http://repo.jackmoves.com/albun42?page=2" link before a little while back. My car came with an alarm and only a driver side power door lock off the alarms remote, from the person i bought it from. I want to add the passenger side power lock to the remote. so i am pretty sure i need another relay for that and everything that applys above. I will probably gather some parts over the winter and do this in the spring
Your write up helped explain better, but like you mentioned...PICS!!! lol. we have been spoiled by honda-techs past write ups..i feel they are to blame
Good Job!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can almost guarantee that since you have an aftermarket alarm on the car and only the drivers side locks and unlocks you have an aftermarket door lock actuator in that door and nothing in the passengers side or its not hooked, broken, or not there at all.. adding it isnt tough really, i installed car alarms for a couple years ago and you can take it to a shop and they will probably do it for 40-70 bux including parts if you cant handle it..
Your write up helped explain better, but like you mentioned...PICS!!! lol. we have been spoiled by honda-techs past write ups..i feel they are to blame
Good Job!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can almost guarantee that since you have an aftermarket alarm on the car and only the drivers side locks and unlocks you have an aftermarket door lock actuator in that door and nothing in the passengers side or its not hooked, broken, or not there at all.. adding it isnt tough really, i installed car alarms for a couple years ago and you can take it to a shop and they will probably do it for 40-70 bux including parts if you cant handle it..
12-05-2004, 06:05 PM
#14
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window regulators for EX coupe
Read this great topic.
Still have a question (not yet covered here):
I have '93 EX coupe. Would power window regulators/motors from 4DR model work on my 2Dr model? Or I have to get them from 2Dr models only?
Thanks in advance.
Still have a question (not yet covered here):
I have '93 EX coupe. Would power window regulators/motors from 4DR model work on my 2Dr model? Or I have to get them from 2Dr models only?
Thanks in advance.
12-05-2004, 06:15 PM
#15
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Re: window regulators for EX coupe (genpix)
Too tough to say, motors are more then likely universal between the two models, but with the different sized windows, I would assume the regulators are different. Best to find out by checking at a junkyard or calling up Honda, see what part numbers they have for the two models. The question has been asked long before, but has yet to be answered.
12-05-2004, 06:26 PM
#16
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Re: window regulators for EX coupe (INVALID)
probably have to ask Honda parts/service.
I don't trust those junk yard "specialists" where I usually go. They sold me wrong parts in the past.
I don't trust those junk yard "specialists" where I usually go. They sold me wrong parts in the past.
12-05-2004, 06:31 PM
#17
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Re: window regulators for EX coupe (genpix)
Go to a pick your part type of place, it won't matter if you find a manual or powered four door, then just measure the regulators and compare to yours.
02-27-2005, 10:29 AM
#20
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Re: [HOW-TO] Power Windows, Locks, Mirrors into EG Civic (Cuong-nutz)
what parts would i need, if I already have a 95 civic si? Planning on doing this project before painting my car.
02-27-2005, 02:11 PM
#21
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Re: [HOW-TO] Power Windows, Locks, Mirrors into EG Civic (methos713)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by methos713 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what parts would i need, if I already have a 95 civic si? Planning on doing this project before painting my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its much easier to get new doors, and take the harness's from an ex to use, pass side is a pita if you dont have a parts car at your disposal
its much easier to get new doors, and take the harness's from an ex to use, pass side is a pita if you dont have a parts car at your disposal
02-27-2005, 08:05 PM
#22
Re: [HOW-TO] Power Windows, Locks, Mirrors into EG Civic (methos713)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by methos713 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what parts would i need, if I already have a 95 civic si? Planning on doing this project before painting my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I listed all the parts you need at the top of the page
I listed all the parts you need at the top of the page
02-27-2005, 10:03 PM
#24
Re: (J-Star)
It's the thing that the door handle attaches to as well as the locks. It is what attaches to the latch and keeps the door shut when you close it. I'd have to pull my panel off in order to take a picture, but here's a picture. The assembly is located inside the door but you get the idea
03-12-2005, 07:35 PM
#25
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Cuong-nutz)
went to the junkyard today...noticed that all the power window wires/assembly was gone from the 5th gen civics w/ power windows. So now, I want to know if I could use the wires or the powerwindow motors from the integras.
Modified by methos713 at 7:21 AM 3/13/2005
Modified by methos713 at 7:21 AM 3/13/2005