[FAQ] Official Parts List for an Auto to Manual Swap on an EG
07-25-2005, 01:57 PM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (idriveadelsol7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idriveadelsol7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anybody have pictures of the oem lower manual mount?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes sir, sure do.
*EDIT* We-Todd isn't responding. I'll have a picture up later.
If you look at your tranny from the front, you'll see 2-3 hole.. That's where the mount connects too.
Yes sir, sure do.
*EDIT* We-Todd isn't responding. I'll have a picture up later.
If you look at your tranny from the front, you'll see 2-3 hole.. That's where the mount connects too.
09-08-2005, 10:47 PM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (B16CRXT)
Hey JDM-EJ1 I am am reallying to by your parts just tell me how much and where the parts go to like a del sol or a civic yea
09-20-2005, 07:57 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (manaflare)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by manaflare »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i was wondering were you got the aftermarket mount if you could send me a link.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I couldn't find it on their website, however, I did call Newman and he had it in stock!
I couldn't find it on their website, however, I did call Newman and he had it in stock!
10-07-2005, 09:01 AM
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So, I have the possibility of buying everything from the transmission to the shifter off of a 98' EX for $275. Seems like a good deal and hard to pass up.
But can anyone tell me how much of a b!tch it's going to be to get it to fit in my '95? Is this possible?
But can anyone tell me how much of a b!tch it's going to be to get it to fit in my '95? Is this possible?
10-07-2005, 09:04 AM
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Re: (uncah91)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncah91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, I have the possibility of buying everything from the transmission to the shifter off of a 98' EX for $275. Seems like a good deal and hard to pass up.
But can anyone tell me how much of a b!tch it's going to be to get it to fit in my '95? Is this possible?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fit in the car to carry it home?
Or fit to make everything work on your car?
Everything will fit in your car, and everything will bolt up to work just fine.
But can anyone tell me how much of a b!tch it's going to be to get it to fit in my '95? Is this possible?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fit in the car to carry it home?
Or fit to make everything work on your car?
Everything will fit in your car, and everything will bolt up to work just fine.
10-07-2005, 09:05 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (gob4show)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gob4show »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious... about how much would you say this swap cost you all together??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since I had a shop do it (big mistake, I wish I would've done it). It cost me about $700 for all the parts, and $600 for the shop to put it in. Now, again this was over the course of 9 months, so I didn't feel it at all.
Since I had a shop do it (big mistake, I wish I would've done it). It cost me about $700 for all the parts, and $600 for the shop to put it in. Now, again this was over the course of 9 months, so I didn't feel it at all.
10-07-2005, 09:12 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (JDM-EJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Fit in the car to carry it home?
Or fit to make everything work on your car?
Everything will fit in your car, and everything will bolt up to work just fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet! On both accounts ... Many thanks.
Fit in the car to carry it home?
Or fit to make everything work on your car?
Everything will fit in your car, and everything will bolt up to work just fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet! On both accounts ...
Many thanks.
10-07-2005, 09:22 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (uncah91)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncah91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sweet! On both accounts ... Many thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I fit everything in my car, however I took out my passenger seat.
Sweet! On both accounts ...
Many thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>I fit everything in my car, however I took out my passenger seat.
10-07-2005, 01:28 PM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (JDM-EJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Since I had a shop do it (big mistake, I wish I would've done it). It cost me about $700 for all the parts, and $600 for the shop to put it in. Now, again this was over the course of 9 months, so I didn't feel it at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn only 600 for the shop to install. And yeah over 9 months not bad.. how long did the shop have it for?
Since I had a shop do it (big mistake, I wish I would've done it). It cost me about $700 for all the parts, and $600 for the shop to put it in. Now, again this was over the course of 9 months, so I didn't feel it at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn only 600 for the shop to install. And yeah over 9 months not bad.. how long did the shop have it for?
10-07-2005, 01:35 PM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (gob4show)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gob4show »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Damn only 600 for the shop to install. And yeah over 9 months not bad.. how long did the shop have it for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The shop had it for about 5 days. The reason why it wasn't that much is because I supplied all the parts.
Damn only 600 for the shop to install. And yeah over 9 months not bad.. how long did the shop have it for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The shop had it for about 5 days. The reason why it wasn't that much is because I supplied all the parts.
10-07-2005, 01:41 PM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (JDM-EJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The shop had it for about 5 days. The reason why it wasn't that much is because I supplied all the parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so what your saying... buy all the parts myself and beings as to how i don't have alot of time. The shop shouldn't charge more than a grand... if i supply all the parts?
The shop had it for about 5 days. The reason why it wasn't that much is because I supplied all the parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so what your saying... buy all the parts myself and beings as to how i don't have alot of time. The shop shouldn't charge more than a grand... if i supply all the parts?
10-07-2005, 01:52 PM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (gob4show)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gob4show »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so what your saying... buy all the parts myself and beings as to how i don't have alot of time. The shop shouldn't charge more than a grand... if i supply all the parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. I didn't do it for the same reason, lack of time. It's not hard to do, it's really straight foward. Get an estimate first, don't let them jerk you around. Anything more than $600 would be robbery, I'd say.
so what your saying... buy all the parts myself and beings as to how i don't have alot of time. The shop shouldn't charge more than a grand... if i supply all the parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. I didn't do it for the same reason, lack of time. It's not hard to do, it's really straight foward. Get an estimate first, don't let them jerk you around. Anything more than $600 would be robbery, I'd say.
10-08-2005, 06:52 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (JDM-EJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Exactly. I didn't do it for the same reason, lack of time. It's not hard to do, it's really straight foward. Get an estimate first, don't let them jerk you around. Anything more than $600 would be robbery, I'd say.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Awesome. thanks for all your help. :D
Exactly. I didn't do it for the same reason, lack of time. It's not hard to do, it's really straight foward. Get an estimate first, don't let them jerk you around. Anything more than $600 would be robbery, I'd say.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Awesome. thanks for all your help. :D
10-08-2005, 07:59 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (RACEPAK)
Thanks. Luserkid also did one for the EK, everything is pretty much the same except for the intake manifold.
12-20-2005, 06:32 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (JDM-EJ1)
A few things I would change on this parts list(someone may have covered these already...
1. You never mentioned the length of wire necessary for the reverse light wiring (which is necessary).
2. Its Much Cheaper to chip and convert the manual ECU than to purchase another.
3. A different throttle cable IS NOT necessary. If you actually do the job, you will see that when people tell you to replace just the brake pedal without removing the whole set, it is easier said than done (that crap is hard!). If you drop the column (easy as changing underwear), you can remove the pedal set. once you do this, you can replace the brake pedal and re-install the brake/gas pedal set, then when you are ready, install the clutch pedal. I could see no difference between the gas pedal connections, so I don't know where that info came from.. who knows, I threw the manual gas pedal away. Whether you remove just the brake pedal, or the whole pedal set, replacing the gas pedal is a total waste of time, and therefore, the throttle cable shouldn't even be an issue.
4. The auto console portion WILL work. While I was searching for my manual console peice(lost in the shed), I installed a shift boot on my auto console section. The reason I replace it was because it was the last remaining broken/painted part from my full interior de-rice when I bought the car. When you lift the plastic console portion up, you will see that it has the two plastic slots for the metal clips on the boot to slide in to. It also has the two screw holes for the other part of the metal boot piece.
Cliffs Notes: Keep auto throttle cable, Keep Auto Console Piece (buy a shift boot), Chip your ecu instead of buying a new one, and buy wire to wire the reverse lights!
1. You never mentioned the length of wire necessary for the reverse light wiring (which is necessary).
2. Its Much Cheaper to chip and convert the manual ECU than to purchase another.
3. A different throttle cable IS NOT necessary. If you actually do the job, you will see that when people tell you to replace just the brake pedal without removing the whole set, it is easier said than done (that crap is hard!). If you drop the column (easy as changing underwear), you can remove the pedal set. once you do this, you can replace the brake pedal and re-install the brake/gas pedal set, then when you are ready, install the clutch pedal. I could see no difference between the gas pedal connections, so I don't know where that info came from.. who knows, I threw the manual gas pedal away. Whether you remove just the brake pedal, or the whole pedal set, replacing the gas pedal is a total waste of time, and therefore, the throttle cable shouldn't even be an issue.
4. The auto console portion WILL work. While I was searching for my manual console peice(lost in the shed), I installed a shift boot on my auto console section. The reason I replace it was because it was the last remaining broken/painted part from my full interior de-rice when I bought the car. When you lift the plastic console portion up, you will see that it has the two plastic slots for the metal clips on the boot to slide in to. It also has the two screw holes for the other part of the metal boot piece.
Cliffs Notes: Keep auto throttle cable, Keep Auto Console Piece (buy a shift boot), Chip your ecu instead of buying a new one, and buy wire to wire the reverse lights!
12-20-2005, 07:50 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (90civichb)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A few things I would change on this parts list(someone may have covered these already...
1. You never mentioned the length of wire necessary for the reverse light wiring (which is necessary).
2. Its Much Cheaper to chip and convert the manual ECU than to purchase another.
3. A different throttle cable IS NOT necessary. If you actually do the job, you will see that when people tell you to replace just the brake pedal without removing the whole set, it is easier said than done (that crap is hard!). If you drop the column (easy as changing underwear), you can remove the pedal set. once you do this, you can replace the brake pedal and re-install the brake/gas pedal set, then when you are ready, install the clutch pedal. I could see no difference between the gas pedal connections, so I don't know where that info came from.. who knows, I threw the manual gas pedal away. Whether you remove just the brake pedal, or the whole pedal set, replacing the gas pedal is a total waste of time, and therefore, the throttle cable shouldn't even be an issue.
4. The auto console portion WILL work. While I was searching for my manual console peice(lost in the shed), I installed a shift boot on my auto console section. The reason I replace it was because it was the last remaining broken/painted part from my full interior de-rice when I bought the car. When you lift the plastic console portion up, you will see that it has the two plastic slots for the metal clips on the boot to slide in to. It also has the two screw holes for the other part of the metal boot piece.
Cliffs Notes: Keep auto throttle cable, Keep Auto Console Piece (buy a shift boot), Chip your ecu instead of buying a new one, and buy wire to wire the reverse lights! </TD></TR></TABLE>
do you have pics of the auto console piece with the shfit boot on? i'm interested in seein that
1. You never mentioned the length of wire necessary for the reverse light wiring (which is necessary).
2. Its Much Cheaper to chip and convert the manual ECU than to purchase another.
3. A different throttle cable IS NOT necessary. If you actually do the job, you will see that when people tell you to replace just the brake pedal without removing the whole set, it is easier said than done (that crap is hard!). If you drop the column (easy as changing underwear), you can remove the pedal set. once you do this, you can replace the brake pedal and re-install the brake/gas pedal set, then when you are ready, install the clutch pedal. I could see no difference between the gas pedal connections, so I don't know where that info came from.. who knows, I threw the manual gas pedal away. Whether you remove just the brake pedal, or the whole pedal set, replacing the gas pedal is a total waste of time, and therefore, the throttle cable shouldn't even be an issue.
4. The auto console portion WILL work. While I was searching for my manual console peice(lost in the shed), I installed a shift boot on my auto console section. The reason I replace it was because it was the last remaining broken/painted part from my full interior de-rice when I bought the car. When you lift the plastic console portion up, you will see that it has the two plastic slots for the metal clips on the boot to slide in to. It also has the two screw holes for the other part of the metal boot piece.
Cliffs Notes: Keep auto throttle cable, Keep Auto Console Piece (buy a shift boot), Chip your ecu instead of buying a new one, and buy wire to wire the reverse lights!
</TD></TR></TABLE>do you have pics of the auto console piece with the shfit boot on? i'm interested in seein that
12-20-2005, 10:51 AM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (byronl)
No I don't, but I can get the broken POS out of my shed some time and take a pic..
Do you have some disagreement with it too? If so, I may have bought an auto car that someone replaced the piece with a manual one.. I will research this some..
Do you have some disagreement with it too? If so, I may have bought an auto car that someone replaced the piece with a manual one.. I will research this some..
12-20-2005, 12:58 PM
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Re: **Official CORRECT parts list for an AT/MT swap on an EG** (90civichb)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. A different throttle cable IS NOT necessary. If you actually do the job, you will see that when people tell you to replace just the brake pedal without removing the whole set, it is easier said than done (that crap is hard!). If you drop the column (easy as changing underwear), you can remove the pedal set. once you do this, you can replace the brake pedal and re-install the brake/gas pedal set, then when you are ready, install the clutch pedal. I could see no difference between the gas pedal connections, so I don't know where that info came from.. who knows, I threw the manual gas pedal away. Whether you remove just the brake pedal, or the whole pedal set, replacing the gas pedal is a total waste of time, and therefore, the throttle cable shouldn't even be an issue.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do need a did a different throttle cable if you use the set of manual pedals. However, if you keep the automatic/break pedals you can use your existing automatic throttle cable. The mechnisms that connect the cable to the pedal are differnt, this why you need one for the corresponding pedals.
3. A different throttle cable IS NOT necessary. If you actually do the job, you will see that when people tell you to replace just the brake pedal without removing the whole set, it is easier said than done (that crap is hard!). If you drop the column (easy as changing underwear), you can remove the pedal set. once you do this, you can replace the brake pedal and re-install the brake/gas pedal set, then when you are ready, install the clutch pedal. I could see no difference between the gas pedal connections, so I don't know where that info came from.. who knows, I threw the manual gas pedal away. Whether you remove just the brake pedal, or the whole pedal set, replacing the gas pedal is a total waste of time, and therefore, the throttle cable shouldn't even be an issue.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do need a did a different throttle cable if you use the set of manual pedals. However, if you keep the automatic/break pedals you can use your existing automatic throttle cable. The mechnisms that connect the cable to the pedal are differnt, this why you need one for the corresponding pedals.