Deemeetree

This is a write-up on how to install a D-Series header, or any header for that matter. I'm pretty sure it's the same for B, H, and K-Series (except it's on the firewall side for the K-Series).

Step 1:



Unbolt the 4 12mm bolts holding the heat shield in place.



Removed.

Step 2:



Unplug the O2 sensor harness. Make sure to pull it off the tab that you see right above it. I was trying to break it loose for like 10 minutes before I realized it needs to be off the bracket before it can be unplugged. Silly me.

Step 3:



You can use an O2 sensor socket to remove the O2 sensor. I picked this up at Sears for $9 (employee discount).

I found out that the socket is actually a little too fat/wide. You'll need to grind down the header in order to completely place the entire socket on the O2 sensor.

I used a 7/8" open-end wrench. It is not the specific size, but it was snug enough to break it free. Came loose pretty damn easy.

BTW, I removed the O2 sensor AFTER removing the header. It makes it much easier.

Step 4:



Drive your car on ramps and crawl under.

Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the pipe to the catalytic converter. Also, don't forget to use a 14mm box wrench to hold the other side (bolt) to keep it from moving.

Step 5:



Moving toward the front of the car, you'll see this bracket. The rear of the bracket is facing the front of the car, so you probably won't see the nuts on there. 14mm socket, off they came.

This bracket holds the pipe from moving around.

Step 6:



Kind of the pain in the butt part.

I realized at the end that I didn't have to remove this pipe from the header. I broke 2 nuts loose, the 3rd was a PIA.

Again, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE 2NDARY PIPE FROM THE COLLECTOR. It can be pulled out as one piece from under the car.

Step 7:



Unbolt the header from the cylinder head. Do this part SLOWLY. Take your time. Start inward and move outward. A few turns per bolt.



Removed.

Step 8:



Pull out assembly as one unit from under the car. Might take a little finesse to drop it ot of the way without bumping into parts on the way down.

Step 9:



Some headers come with the O2 bung welded into the stock location. This header did not. The O2 bung was relocated to the end of the Y-Pipe right before the cat. I was a bit skeptical that I was going to throw a code, but didn't.

I took the O2 sensor harness and cut it. Soldered te color-coded wires together. Used electrical tape on the connections. Placed heatshrink tubing over the electrical tape and shrinked them using a lighter. Taped everything together and placed it in the wire loom. EVERYTHING was supplied in the kit.

Step 10:



Use one snti-seize on the O2 sensor and thread into the bung. Tighten snug.

Step 11:



Assemble the Y-Pipe and header together to drop in as one unit.

Place the supplied gasket on the Y-Pipe.

Step 12:



Anti-seize on the bolts, supplied aswell.

Step 13:



Mated together. Tighten in sequence, snug aswell.

Step 14:





Remove the OEM gasket and install the new gasket, supplied in the kit.


Install is the reverse of removal. Don't tighten ANYTHING down until the very end when everything is lined up perfectly.

Tighten the header starting from the inside and working your way out, in a criss-cross pattern. Slowly tightening each bolt as you go.

Finished install:





As you can tell, I already scuffed the **** out of the coating. No biggie. Be careful if you don't want scratches.

Install time: +/- 2 hours with hand tools including soldering the O2 harness.

Hope this helps.


I am pretty much trying to keep to a budget. I'm DEFINITELY aiming toward doing a Mini-Me install since I can find a good, COMPLETE D16Z6/D16Y8 head for less than $125. I'm definitely aiming toward high-compression, all-motor setup using used, but great condition higher compression pistons, etc...etc...etc...this is pretty much the beginning to my build. Everything under a budget.

Lee_Delso

fourdoor

I have a set of four that I would give to you really cheap.

Curve

Write up isn't bad at all.

Deemeetree

Question for those of you who have aftermarket headers:

Driving down the block, I started smelling somethig funny. Nothing burning, no rubber melting or anything. I tucked the wiring away with zip ties so I know it's nothing of that nature.

It's a funny smell. I'm leaning towards it being the coating on the header. Has this happened to anyone with an aftermarket header?

jmk2888

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question for those of you who have aftermarket headers:

Driving down the block, I started smelling somethig funny. Nothing burning, no rubber melting or anything. I tucked the wiring away with zip ties so I know it's nothing of that nature.

It's a funny smell. I'm leaning towards it being the coating on the header. Has this happened to anyone with an aftermarket header? </TD></TR></TABLE>


The smell will go away after a couple of days, it's normal.

Deemeetree

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmk2888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The smell will go away after a couple of days, it's normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh ok thanks. I actually called Hedman right now and they also said it's normal. It's the oil-based paint burning right off. I guess I'm going to have to get some aircraft stripper and some high-temp BBQ paint and remove the header again and strip and re-coat it.

One question, do you HAVE to use a new gasket? Since I'll be removing the header again, soon, will I need a new gasket or can I get by with the existing one?

Ricochet.

Great writeup, but imo butt connectors are better than soldering.. either way though,

wushubrian

bump for a good usefull thread.

Soccerking3000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Install time: +/- 2 hours with hand tools including soldering the O2 harness.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol it can be done in 15 minutes lol

Deemeetree

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol it can be done in 15 minutes lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the detour of trying to remove the bottom piece of the header when I didn't have to, that took most of my time. Plug, aligning it back with those gay spring bolts for the exhaust piping was another beotch.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricochet. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great writeup, but imo butt connectors are better than soldering.. either way though, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Since when? I don't trust butt connectors for ANYTHING. If it can be soldered, I'll solder it. Butt connectors can come loose, solder can't. Butt connectors look UGLY, solder doesn't. It's the other way around, solder is better than butt connectors. Ask any Electrician *cough*iamone*cough* or someone who does wiring on cars, soldering is the best.

And summamabitch, there's a pinhead sized hole on the Y-Pipe flange where it connects to the bottom of the header. God damn exhaust leak. Guess you get what you pay for. Need to remove it this weekend and get that hole welded in.

igo4bmx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricochet. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great writeup, but imo butt connectors are better than soldering.. either way though, </TD></TR></TABLE>

why would you say that?

soldering looks and is much cleaner

Ricochet.

Soldering can be unreliable sometimes.. I guess it depends on how good of a job one is able to do. With butt connectors you just pop the wires in and crunch it, where a bad solder spot can have a weak connection like if you burn the solder too long. On an O2 sensor where something as minute as wire length resistance has an impact on sensor readings, I'd trust butt connectors.. plus if you mess up soldering you gotta cut the wire instead of simply taking off the butt connector. It's really not that hard to solder though, and that rarely happens, that's why I said "either way ." I really don't want to argue over it because it's more personal preference I guess.

Deemeetree

Indeed, wire length does make a difference on resistance, but what does soldering or butt connectors have anything to do with the resistance? Regardless, the length will be the same, just the connection is different.

Indeed, just personal preference.

BTW, I can remove solder from a wires tip without cutting it. Heat the solder and wipe quickly with a damp sponge, off it comes.

POE

u can reuse the gasket. just becarefull not to mess it up. i wouldnt re use any other gaskets though.

Ricochet.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Indeed, wire length does make a difference on resistance, but what does soldering or butt connectors have anything to do with the resistance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just using wire length as an example of how touchy the O2 signal is, and with a bad solder spot there will be more resistance

huntarrr

good write up

but ****.. if you can't figure this one out on your own, i think you need to stay in the kitchen

Luserkid

Good Write up, i use to have a write up a while back but i think all my pictures are on Photobucket so there up and down. Good job though

Deemeetree

Sometimes n00bs on here have a hard time installing an intake. Leaning more towards them, so they won't ask anymore questions.

mulletov

Nice writeup. Keep them coming. I was gonna do a header install but changed my mind and sold it instead.

SkRiBLaH

that is the most peice of garbage header ive ever seen...

and using a paper gasket over a metal one... tsk tsk tsk...

Deemeetree

Thanks.

SkRiBLaH

im not hating on you. you seem a very thorough person and detail oriented. nice write up, but the product is trash, and if it were me i would re-use the metal gasket.

green-

Nice write up. I think the hardest part for my install was breaking the bolts loose under the car. Taking out the o2 after you get the exhaust mani out is a good idea, much easier.

I reused my old gasket as well, no problems yet. It's been installed for 3 or 4 months now.

743power

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Since when? I don't trust butt connectors for ANYTHING. If it can be soldered, I'll solder it. Butt connectors can come loose, solder can't. Butt connectors look UGLY, solder doesn't. It's the other way around, solder is better than butt connectors. Ask any Electrician *cough*iamone*cough* or someone who does wiring on cars, soldering is the best.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


They both have their places. Soldering wires that will hang loose can cause them to break at the point where the solder meets the wire, due to vibration and moving. You can use a strain relief at the end of a wire, i.e. where the wire meets a connector, but putting heatshrink over the connection in the middle of a wire is the best thing you can do to prevent breaking.