Ok guys, I just want to start this thread by saying if you plan to do this mod only to turn the fuel pressure up to the maximum possible setting, you are a ricer and you can leave my thread right now.
However, if you are an adept self-tuner or are having your car professionally tuned, this is an ideal modification. It requires little time and skill, and doesn't cost very much. Happy modding! </FONT>
You must have a fuel pressure gauge installed, or a fuel pressure tester that plugs in on top of the fuel filter. My car has a gauge installed on top of the filter. (I sell these for $18US shipped, PM me for details)
First, we have a picture of what we will be installing.
It's a B&M Command-Flo Fuel Pressure Modifier, Part# 46057 in silver. These are available in a variety of colors, ask your seller.
Open up the package and make sure you have everything.
You should have:
-1 Command-Flo Body
-1 Command-Flo Base
-1 Brass threaded piston
-1 Red silicone O-ring
-4 6-32 bolts
-1 Jam nut
-1 Vaccum line
-1 Tube of LocktiteŽ
-1 Instruction sheet
You will also require a few tools:
-3/8" drive socket wrench, 6" extension, and 10mm socket
-1/2" box wrench
-New O-ring for the regulator (Honda part#16741-PG7-005 for the D16Y8 anyways...)
-And of course,
... not required, but certainly recommended as with any do-it-yourself job.
Tools not pictured
-3/16" wrench (under the rag)
-7/64" Allen key (also under the rag...)
Now, you're going to want to get your fuel pressure readings first. With the fuel pressure gauge installed and the engine idling at operating temperature, remove the vacuum hose from the top of the fuel pressure regulator, plug the vacuum hose and read the fuel pressure. Write it down, because this is what you're going to set it to when you're done. (unless you're self tuning)
Now reconnect the vacuum hose to the regulator and take that reading as well.
readings for my
300kPa and 250kPa respectively. The Helms manual says it should be between 260-310kPa (38-46psi) line disconnected, and between 200-250kPa (28-36psi) with the vacuum line connected to the regulator, so I'm good here.
Now you're ready to take the stock regulator out, so shut the engine off. I'd recommend letting the car sit for a little while to cool off since you're working on the fuel system, but hey... whatever. Relieve the fuel system pressure by whatever means you prefer. If I'm in a rush, I usually remove the gas cap, put a rag around the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter and loosen the bolt a little. If you have a good fuel pressure tester, it will have a relief button and a relief tube as well.
Ok, fuel pressure relieved. Now find your regulator, looks like this:
Place a shop rag underneath the regulator, as some fuel will drip out.
Now, disconnect the vacuum line from the top, and focus your attention to the back. Before you remove the two 10mm bolts (red arrows), remove the clamp for the return line (yellow arrow) and remove the return line.
Now remove those 10mm bolts.
Once those bolts are out, put them in a safe spot... and the regulator is off.
Now it's time to cut the top of that OEM regulator off.
You should make your cut a little more than half way from the top. Don't get too hung up on precision for this part, because it doesn't really matter. Just make sure there's no sharp edges sticking out. Also note there is a spring inside the regulator, so be careful.
Now it should be apart and look like this.
Discard the spring and the top section of the OEM regulator, unless you like to save stuff like this.
Assemble the Command-Flo body (new top section)
Thread the brass piston all the way down, (not tight though) thread the jam nut on the other side all the way down. (also not tight) Carefully insert the red silicone O-ring that was provided with the new regulator, and place the spring in place on it's seat in the body.
Now, dab some of the provided LocktiteŽ on the threads of the new 6-32 bolts, place the base over the OEM regulator below the lip, and install the Command-Flo body over the top part of the OEM regulator. Make sure the spring stays seated in the OEM regulator and the Command-Flo body. Push them together as far as you can, and tighten all for 6-32 bolts with your 7/64" Allen key. IMPORTANT: Make sure you don't over tighten these bolts.
These bolts are very small, and it doesn't require much force to make the body meet with the base. It just needs to be snug. Should look like this when you're done this step:
Now, re-installation is reverse of the removal process basically. Place the new OEM replacement O-ring onto the regulator and position it on the fuel rail to thread the bolts back in.
Attach the provided vacuum line to the intake manifold, measure and cut the hose to the appropriate length.
Reattach the return line to the bottom of the regulator, use a new clamp if necessary. For me, it was necessary because I hate those stupid OEM clamps.
Almost looks like it belongs in there!
Now you're ready to start it up and adjust the pressure. Start the engine, remove the vacuum line from the new regulator, and plug it. Watch your pressure gauge as you adjust. To raise the fuel pressure, turn the shaft clock-wise with your 3/16" wrench. To lower, counter-clockwise obviously.
Right on the money! Now, reinstall the vacuum line and tighten that locknut on the top with your 1/2" wrench. Don't be an animal, don't over-tighten this. Just make it snug because if you break anything, you won't have a drivable car.
Now remove your fuel pressure gauge if it's a non-permanent one. (being sure to relieve the fuel pressure once again of course
) Remember, I sell those gauges as pictured for $18 shipped, <FONT COLOR="red">they are permanent, meaning they stay on top of the fuel filter all the time.</FONT>
Congratulations, you're finished. Total time should be less than an hour... probably took more time to read this!
Modified by CycloneBlue_1.6EL at 2:25 PM 4/30/2005