Kjayden49

Hello, I’m a young lad trying to build my first high power motor. I currently have a D16Y7 in my car and am planning my to swap into a built D16Y8, I am wondering what parts I may be missing in my shopping cart since I’ve never built a high power motor before. Build list below, wondering what I don’t have on that list that I should get. Is a dual sump pump necessary? Turbo recomendations? Any specific bearings to upgrade or go all OEM? Tried researching but for my power goal cant quite find what else to go with. will be getting cylinders bored and honed, I see the stock pistons are 75mm is it necessary for 75.5mm? Just confirming what I know and asking the gurus before I fully start the motor build. Wiseco 75.5m pistons
D16z6 crankshaft

ARP head studs

Skunk2 Pro intake manifold

Skunk2 Pro Cam gear

Skunk2 Vitara connecting rods

70mm throttle body

Skunk2 MAP sensor

Skunk2 Valve stem seals

Skunk2 Valves

Skunk2 valve springs, Ti retainers, keepers

cosmetic street pro top end gasket kit

Mishimoto rad and thermostat

Skunk2 headers

RC Racing 550 CC injectors

AEM fuel rail.
If you’re very experienced in building these types of motors and don’t mind me asking questions please reach out to my insta, @jaydens_photoroom

Kjayden49

Just an FYI, will be running hondata on a p28, I know I need an engine harness for the swap, anything at all I’m missing?

Kjayden49

Bump

JRCivic1

You will not need a large throttle body. The throttle body needs to be the same size as the inlet piping... and 2.5" piping is more than large enough for 300 wheel HP. You will not need a header since you are going to turbo charge the engine in order to meet your power goals. RC 550's are really old technology, and if you are buying a new set of these, they will cost as much or nearly as much as a modern set from a reputable manufacturer like Deatschwerks or Injector Dynamics (ID). Forget the Mishi thermostat... a genuine OE Honda one works best. The cam gear won't be necessary... it will just look pretty unless you need to degree an aftermarket camshaft. The stock camshaft will work just fine at 300 wheel HP. Lastly, the Skunk2 Vitara Spec connecting rods are too long for using a conventional aftermarket piston... they will make the piston stick up out of the block. Get the regular 137mm length rods.

You mentioned a "Cosmetic" head gasket in your list... I believe you meant "Cometic" and it is a quality product. Use a standard thickness one UNLESS the head and/or block have been milled... then you will need a thicker one to make up for the material lost.

hondamark35

Most of what makes the Y8 "better" than the Y7 will be replaced or substituted by the time you're at your goal. I would consider building the Y7 if you can find a good source for a reground or upgraded camshaft. A Y8 intake manifold would be a good budget alternative to the skunk 2.

Oil feed holes on the Y7 crankshaft can be radiused to work just like the Z6. I have 100k+ miles of anecdotal evidence to support that.

you'll probably want to plan for a catch can and have ports added to the valve cover to feed it.

If this were my build, I would probably stick with the stock valves and only upgrade the springs if recommended for the new cam profile. then see what the dyno says.

If I remember correctly, stock rods and pistons are the week link past 250hp so it's good to focus there.

what's your plan for tuning solutions?

Kjayden49

Thanks for the sugestion so far, to start I already have a y8 motor and trans outside the car so building the y7 with what I can in the meantime. I already have RC550 injectors, but I might swap them out as they came with the motor when I bought it. I did more research and I plan to use the y8 IM and TB since I have it. The motor I got already has “Crower” springs but I’m unsure when it last ran so should I just replace them as is? I plan to run a p28 chipped, but from what I’ve seen that needs an OBD1 conversion

Kjayden49

copy, currently it has brand new felpro gaskets all around, cometic id what I meant, just wanna make sure I read it right, it’s only worth if it’s shaved? And ty for the info on the connecting rods, first car and first build so learning via experience so far 😅

Kjayden49

so far I plan to use skunk2 alpha connecting rods and wiseco pistons. Do you think a slunk2 cam is worth it? If not what cam would you recommend for the build? I see you don’t reccomend upgrading the valves, for me I bought a “mystery motor” it’s half built, no clue if I ran before pulled, still need to pull it all apart and look for damage but no room or time to do so yet. I see it has crower springs, but I wanna replace them aswell as the valves themself as I wanna make sure the motor will work in general. The turbo is the last part of the build, tbh I haven’t even planned too much of that out yet as I need to get the block and head built first which means I need to know what TO and NOT TO order. Finally, from what I heard the z6 crank has 2 oil holes and the y7 has 1 oil feed hole. From what you said do they both have 2 just different sizes? What would the feed Joel size be to “bore” it. Thanks for the help so far.

ps. Budget isn’t the main priority, I’m more focused on quality as I want to daily and track the car so don’t want it breaking often.

JRCivic1

Cometic makes high quality head gaskets. A stock OE Honda Multi-Layer head gasket is also a quality product. IF the head and block have never been cut/surfaced/milled, then you can use either brand and be fine. However, if the head has been/needs to be milled, let's say .010" (ten thousandths) for example, then you MUST buy the Cometic head gasket with a thickness of ten more thousandths than the factory thickness. Does this make sense ?

I never said I don't recommend aftermarket valves... I only stated that the factory valves are really good for an OE product and you do not need "better" ones for up to 300 wheel HP. If money is tight... spend the valve money on something you need. If money is no object... buy a set of Ferrea 6000's (or really get crazy and go the top-o-the-line Competition Plus valves) and install them. They are way more than you need for 300 wheel HP... but having them won't hurt anything