WARNING its been maybe 3 years since i did this. I didn't take good enough notes about it and i am trying to do this from memory and the pictures i have left. This write up isn't very good and may not be very clear. It is still a work in progress. I will answer questions and try to clarify anything that isn't.
I'd like to thank Long Grain Wild for his help with this and deschlong for motivating me to get off my *** and do this.
These are the parts you will need:
Dash harness/also called engine room harness PN 32200-S04-A52 (EX manual) 32100-S02-A42 (SI)
Instrument cluster harness PN 32117-S04-C02
Floor Harness PN 32107-S03-A44
Radiator support harness PN 32200-S04-A52
Cruise control on/off switch PN 36775-s01-a01zA/C/B (A is charcoal, C is grey, B is taupe)
Cruise control set/reset switch. You will need the plastic panel from a steering wheel that has the cutout for this as well. Or you can get another wheel…
Cable Reel PN 77900-S04-A92 Cruise Control Unit (cruise ecu) PN 36700-s01-a11/21 (a11 is the manual version a21 is auto. But I am running the auto in my car so it appears the difference is just in the numbers)
Cruise specific pedals. Any EX or SI will do. There are no part numbers for the complete assym. Just pull one form a yard.
Cruise control cable PN 17880-s01-a01/a23 (a01 for non SI. A23 = SI)
Cruise control actuator PN 36520-p2f-a01
Cruise control vacuum tank PN 36625-p2f-a01
The metal mount for the vacuum tank
Various amount of vacuum line
wiring pins. You can get them here:
The female pins are CONN-11656
The male pins are either CONN-00115, CONN-100451, or CONN-100558. I don’t remember which. I’d recommend you buy some of each. They are handy to have around. Also get the pin removal tools and the crimper from this site as well.
You will need to pull the interior out. All of it! That includes the dash and steering wheel.
remove the steering wheel first. pull out all the bolts circled in red. but first, get this thing out of the way:
then move to the steering column: remove the plastic cover. It just slides off if you pull straight down.
undo the U joint.
loosen these 2 bolts, one on each side. Don't take them out yet. Its best to remove the next set of bolts then finish taking these off
remove these 2. Then you can lower the column to the ground. Once its on the ground, disconnect all the plugs and set the whole thing aside
Now that the wheel is disconnected you can pull the dash.
Disconnect everything from the dash. I mean everything; the SRS system, the fuse box, the radio and ac controls. ALL OF IT!
To remove the dash you need to pull out the bolts circled in red.
Drivers side bolts:
You don't need to remove the one circled in yellow. Just loosen it. Leaving it in allows the dash to rest on it until you have all the other bolts out and are ready to pull it up.
Near where the steering column used to be
at the cup holder. one bolt on each side
center of the dash
passenger side. don't forget to disconnect the main relay
You can now lift the dash out. Once the dash is out you need to strip the dash harness out of it. Its the wiring you see in the pic.
it kinda snakes around in there a bit and can be a pain to get out/back in.
You will have to strip the gauge cluster harness out of the dash. The reason is that the CX/DX don’t have the connector used for the cruise on/off switch in the dash. It’s also missing the indicator light switch for the cluster as well.
Here is a pic of the CX/DX and the EX/SI cluster harnesses. CX/DX on top, EX/SI on bottom.
The EX/SI has a green terminal block and the 4 pin connector. The indicator light plug is visible in the next pic CX/DX top, EX/SI bottom:
Once this harness is replaced you can put the dash back into the car.
With the dash removed you can now get to the Cabin Harness. This is also called the Engine Room Harness by the Honda Parts Manual. This job is a LOT easier if you also remove the AC blower and evaporator although it's not necessary. I didn't remove mine but i have small hands and can weasel them behind the ac parts. you may want to remove them. It really does help
Here is the harness we need to replace.
But before you pull it you need to disconnect the wiring under the hood. On the passenger side it runs to the fuse box and a plug on the shock tower. You will need to disconnect these and stuff the wiring though the firewall as best you can. On the drivers side its about the same. You have 2 plugs on shock tower. You also have the brake fluid level sensor to unplug. Then get this ready to stuff though the firewall using the port beside the clutch master cyl.
the driver's side wiring feeds though here. (thanks long grain wild for the pic)
and connects here
With that done we can move to getting the harness out of the inside of the car.
Its held in with 2 bolts.
the rest is held in by clips like this one
After you get the harness in you will need to change the pedals out. It’s easiest to do this now with the dash out than it is to do it later.
The reason for this is that the cruise equipped cars have an extra lever for the cruise actuator cable.
The CX/DX is on the left. The EX/SI pedal assembly is on the right. Notice the cruise actuation lever on the gas pedal.
Don't forget to add in the clutch switch to the pedals if you haven't already
While you are here you may as well put the cruise control brain in.
And add the cruise actuator cable though the firewall and connect it to the pedals
If you have a CX or DX without the rear wiper you can just go ahead and replace everything with your EX/Si harnesses and put the dash back in.
Then get the steering wheel column back in and take off the steering wheel.
once the wheel is off you will need to change the cable reel.
Here is the CX/DX reel.
If you notice it only has black wires for the horn and airbag. Here is the EX/SI reel.
This reel adds the necessary wiring for the steering wheel cruise set/rest switch.
You will need to unplug the reels horn and srs wires. Here is the clip that holds them in on the steering column.
To remove the srs (yellow plug) press that long white tab and pull the plug straight down. The horn/cruise connector is just beside it. It’s the grey one
To remove it you need to slide it off the clip
Once these are disconnected you can pull the reel out and place the EX/SI one in. A note, though. The Ex wiring is thicker than the wiring on the dx/cx reel. It’s routed under the plastic above the key interlock. Here is a comparison shot of the EX/Si and the DX/CX wiring with the correct routing. The CX/DX is being held up for comparison sake. The EX/SI has a yellow jacket around these wires
Now you can remove the reel itself. To replace this you need to unscrew the 3 screws holding it down circled in red.
Install is the reverse or removal. Just make sure you route the wires to their proper places and reconnect the plugs.
Now you need to move onto the radiator support harness.
The CX/DX lacks the 4 pin connector to go to the cruise actuator. You will have to remove the CX/DX harness and replace it with the EX/SI harness. This is actually very easy to do. It’s all plug and play if you have a CX/DX without a rear wiper. Just run the cables, mount the actuator, connect the vacuum lines, put the cruise control brain in its place behind the driver’s side kick panel. And you’re done.
DX Hatch specific info.
you can ignore all of this if you don't have a DX hatch or don't care about keeping the rear washer/wiper
Things get fun if you plan on keeping your DX rear wiper. The DX stalk switch has an additional plug for the rear wiper. You will need to transfer this to the new harness if you want to keep it functional. The wiring will have to go into this part of the EX/SI harness i'm holding here.
The easiest way to do this is to depin the pins in the DX harness at their terminals in the floor connector and on the back of the fuse box and pull them loose. They should all be green or green/black wires... You will then need to feed these though the EX/SI harness to their original pin locations. Its not easy but it can be done.
for the radiator harness
The DX radiator harness has an additional 2 pin plug for the rear washer motor. The EX/SI has a grey 6 pin where our 2 pin connector is. (Connector C202 on the radiator harness to C309 on the Cabin harness)
The EX/SI has 6 pin connector in place of the 2 pin. (connector C202/C309)
As you can see we have 2 wires going to the washer motor. The black one we can splice into a ground. The green one we need to add to the EX/SI harness along with our plug.
We need to move the green black wire from the DX harness over to the new one. You also need to move the red/black wire over. This is the turn signal wire. I move the DX red/black to C202 as pictured here.
I then added the Green/black wire to C201 as seen here (the wire pushed up in the grey grommet):
Make sure both sides of the connectors match up.
It’s been a while since I did this and I don’t remember if I had to cut and repin these wires or not.... I think I did for both. You can get the pins needed here:
Now to the dash/cabin/floor harness.
On the dash/Cabin harness .(I don’t remember which one this one is in) You need to bring this green wire over to the EX/SI harness
There are also 2 green/white wires that need to come over. I moved them to these locations in the cabin/dash harness.
Here in this pic I have one wire installed and the other slot is occupied by a yellow/black wire. If I think this is part of the security system wiring. Its optional and not needed. (unless you have the optional security system) Remove it and put the green/white wire in its place.
Now on the floor harness we have to take these 3 green wires from the DX harness and transfer them to the EX/SI harness. They are the 3 at the bottom. 2 mint colored ones and 1 dark green at connector C602
Here are the wires at the other side. Front side on connector C555.
You need to put them into the locations indicated by the multimeter probes. The white/green wire under the red probe can be removed as it’s not used.
Once these wires are moved over you can button everything up. The rear wiper and washer will now work. :D