kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Hi, I recently swapped in a jdm b16a into my eg and it ran beautifully with no leaks or problems what so ever for months, until two weeks ago. I was driving and my check engine light came on then motor started hesitating n eventually turned off. I was able to start it but I'd lose power every time I accelerate and then quite oftenly it would die on me as I got to a stop light. The car now sounds like some beater truck or go-kart or lawnmower when i step on the gas n even the rpm gauge trips out and jumps like crazy going past 9k. I pulled the code n it's 41, primary oxygen sensor heater that's causing the problem. I bought a new sensor and as I went underneath I discovered that the plug was disconnected. So I reconnected it and reset the ecu. The check engine light hasn't came back on but the problem still remains. I then replaced the o2 sensor with the new one. Problem remains. I did some research and saw that it could be the map sensor so I replaced that one too. But again, it still dies out or runs sluggishly. Not sure what to do now, hopefully someone has good advice on what else to check. I am reluctant to take it to the shop, hoping to solve it at home n only going to one as a last resort. Thanks for reading.

1994 Civic Si w/abs
Stock jdm b16a motor
Sir stock intake box
Oil 5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic with hamp oil filter
No other mods on the car.

the171

problems like this can be tricky, especially when there is no CEL. The MAP sensor was a decent guess. The RPM jumping thing would tell me to look at the distributor. Take trip to the junk yard, where you can load up on coils and ignitors for next to nothing. Distributor parts from pretty much any Honda made between the early 90s to early 2000s will work so long as we're talking about internal coil cars. I would also check the rest of the ignition system. Make sure there are no fuel leaks, and that fuel pressure is normal. Also have a look at all your wiring, etc. Good luck.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the fast response! Yeah I think I will head out to the junk yard tmr n pick up another dizzy (not sure if im capable of replacing the internals lol) How would I check on fuel leaks/pressure? Maybe I should replace the fuel filter too just in case.

the171

taking the parts out of the dizzy is very basic. Screw drivers and small sockets are all you need. Its much cheaper this way, plus you can take a bunch from different cars to make sure you get good parts. Another bonus is that you keep the timing on the b16 intact.

I guess you would need a gauge to test fuel pressure. But its always a good idea to inspect the system for leaks and problems.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Ah I c, I just found a junkyard nearby filled with Hondas. I'll just go your route, after seeing some pics of internals it looks simple enough. Thank you so much! Ill post tmr after replacing the internals, I sure hope that's the problem.

rhymeshark916

Why would you rev pass 9k? But anyways, rpm gauge trips out is most likely a dizzy. How does the car start when you turn the key? Check grounds? Try a different ecu? Good luck luck though. Si with a B-series is sweet.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

I'm not trying to rev it past 9k lol, like I would drive it on the fwy n normally it would be between 3-4k rpm n all of a sudden the needle jumps all over the place n goes over 9k. If I start it 10 times, 4 of those times will have a choking start up then it just dies. It'll crank, ignite, then dies. 2-3 other times it'll start up but sounds like a lawn mower n if I step on gas it sounds horrible, maybe misfiring? Then it'll be normal one or two starts but I can't make it down the street without getting whiplash. Ppl think I am learning to drive stick because it chokes or something while accelerating. Grounds look good, I even have a new ground line that goes from motor to chassis. As for ecu, I switch between p28 chipped n usdm p30 to test n they both have same results, except the p30 will have a cel for knock sensor n the p28 won't. Haven't gotten around to wiring it yet but it shouldn't cause this especially if p28 has ks disabled.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Yah si with b series would be sweet if it's not having problems lol

rhymeshark916

Do proper maintenance like dizzy, cap and rotor, wires, plugs o2 sensor. You put the swap in yourself or bought it with the car?

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

I just bought some new plugs and wires today. Was gonna go get parts to rebuild dizzy too but gotta postpone that til Tuesday. I gave up a poor man type r for someone to give me their b16 n do the swap for me. Trying to get it bar'd eventually. Ran fine for awhile

rhymeshark916

Yeah do the proper maintenance and you need to get it BARD?

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I wanna get it bar'd whenever everything is fixed

94EG8

The coil or igniter in the distributor sounds like it's going bad. (i'm leaning more towards the igniter) both can easily be found in junkyards. D-series units will work here as well.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

One QQ before going, I read some posts from others and some say if igniters are bad the. The whole distributor needs replacing, others say if the icm is bad then the whole distributor needs replacing. I'm not sure which is true but I still plan on gutting a couple dizzy and getting whatever I can but it'll be helpful for future reference as to which is true. Thanks!

94EG8

Igniter/ICM is the same thing. Neither statement is correct. You can absolutely just replace the igniter/ICM or the coil.

You can't replace the CYP/CKP/TDC sensors by themselves in the sense that you can't buy them, but they're very much replaceable if you have access to used parts.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Thank you guys so much for the info! I went to the junk yard today but no luck, someone gut all the Hondas/Acuras. Might just have to buy them new but for the price of them, maybe buy msd? Any suggestions on aftermarket brand parts or just oem? It's just my DD construction truck wannabe car, but I do take care of it with Mobil 1 synth, hamp filters, iridium ix plugs n ngk wires etc.

94EG8

MSD is junk as far as Honda stuff goes. A brand new OEM coil from Honda isn't that bad, around $100 or so, the ICM is pricey though, they're about $250 from what I recall.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

just replaced the coil and ignitor today... right before putting the rotor back on i dropped the screw and searched for hours n still cant find it. had to order a new one. =/ pwned

rhymeshark916

Sucks. Get a magnet tool. Any update?

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I should... I did the same thing at work that day. Dropped a bolt and it convenient got eaten by the scissor lift n disappeared lol. No, my parts haven't came yet. Since I had to order a new screw, I bought a new cap n rotor, air filter, and fuel filter. I'm hoping it comes today but I'm assuming the latest will be mon.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, here's an update! My parts came in today (from hondapartsunlimited.com) and I installed everything minus the fuel filter (ran outta time). Upon start up, the car pretty much started up as if it's been waiting for me to crank! But then when I started driving, it started bogging or choking or hesitating (however you want to put it) when accelerating. Feels/looks as if a newbie was driving stick for the first time. However, I got upset and just floored it and boy was she a beast. Never felt stronger! I dunno what happened but for the most part I guess she's fixed? Runs and drives normal now, the only problem that's left is the rpm gauge still jumps all crazy every now n then. Should there be anything else for me to troubleshoot? I'm gonna drive it again later to see if anything changed. Thanks everyone for your help and input.

beecee18

I would make sure your ignition switch isn't on its way out.

When the tach starts jumping around try to gently turn the key clockwise and counterclockwise and gently hold it there and see if that helps any.
I've seen it many times

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

I tried it today but it didn't change anything. I also think my rpm gauge is dead. It pretty much stopped moving or showing any signs of life, will take gauge out n run some tests. car drives great now except for stalling only once but maybe it was just a fluke?

rhymeshark916

gj buddy. glad to see some positives.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

thanks!