T3KNiQe

Okay well this is a JDM B16a OBD1 integra XSi swap purchesed from hmotorsonline.com about 4 years ago. It has been a daily driver with about 60,000 miles on it since the swap, saying it had 50,000 miles when I got it, lets just say its around 100,000 miles on the engine. It has stock internals.

Everything has been maintained like a religion. I don't abuse the car, but I could've been a lot nicer to it. I don't know how long this has gone on but one day I start the car with the music off and hear this god awful knocking. Now its hard to tell in the video, but I believe all the knocking is coming from the head, specifically above cylinder 1. Tomorrow I'll do a compression test and post the results, I wanna see what you guys suggest before I go taking everything apart.

Again, stock internals, maintained like a religion, 100,000 miles+/-, and here's the video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0FvhnZ56sM

mortificationrock

I would cry if my **** sounded that way. Sorry.

ALLxMOTOR EG

x2

BlackDeuceCoupe

Have you (ever) adjusted your valve lash?!?!?

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/v...alveadjust.php

That's where I'd start...

Froth

Lost Motion Assemblies. Also known as LMA's, Sounds like they're worn out and smacking around in there.

-Froth

vlc92189

mine sounded like that. i spun a rod bearing.

anothersickhatch

yeah it sounds like its coming from the head. i would take the valve cover off, double check everything, i.e. the lma's, valve springs, etc. and do a valve adjustment. just to be sure, i would adjust the valves to the smaller specs in the manual, i believe the intake is .006 and the exhaust is .007. also, check the timing belt tightness. i know its a long shot, but ive heard loose timing belts make a lot of noise, like flapping.

if that doesn't all check out, which i hope it does, its definitely something a little more major.

bossm

yea might be valve lash

check out this video sounds just like yours
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgBVBWe-hNs

zero708970

The time my old Integra sounded like that was a couple of hours before it threw a rod...hopefully your car doesn't do the same...

anothersickhatch

rod knock comes from the bottom of the motor. both of those motors sound like the noise is undoubtedly coming from the head. is that a turbo manifold i see there?

bossm

yes that was a turbo manifold and a bad *** one at that

anothersickhatch

yeah i figured. well the fact that the op's motor in question was completely stock with only 100k miles on it worries me. it has to be valve lash.

mortificationrock

Someonecheated you on the motor and gave you NON Vtec internals instead of the Godly known VTEC internals...LoL.....Im sleepy and bored. Sorry. 0_o'

nengx07

mines sounds just like that second clip... but its been running for awhile without any problems and still strong as ever.. the first clip you can actually hear knocking when reving up the motor..

mortificationrock

So your telling me that a engine that sounds like those clips is a HEALTHY,STRONG MOTOR? Wow........

anothersickhatch

no, theres something not right with both of those motors..they dont sound healthy at all. something is up with the valve train.

hoffmanb16

my sinciere apologies, it's like one of your best friends is in critical condition. what your address I will send you flowers

T3KNiQe

I get to all that this weekend, but now I don't think thats the problem...

Seriously?

Will I get the box of chocolates to?

Today after closer analysis the knock is indeed coming from the bottom of the engine, I think it might very well be a bad rod bearing. Now could a light weight flywheel & light weight crank pulley be the culprit to this? I had installed both of them when I got the swap.

DC5Chris209

I will throw my money on valves. And possibly but I doubt it could be LMA's

My K sounded just like that after my head build. Sounded healthy after a good valve adjustment

You won't really start loosing power from a problem like this until its too late.

Those could cause you to spin a bearing. I doubt the lighten flywheel could cause it. But cheap crank pulleys have caused spun bearings before. Plenty of stories about them.

T3KNiQe

Its a no-name flywheel and a unorthodox light weight crank pulley.

h224thgensedan

If your going to take weight off of the rotation assymbley, its best to do it at the flywheel. Lightweight crank pulleys have allways caused people problems with burning up oil pumps and really shortning the life of the main bearings

anothersickhatch

agreed. we all know about the harmonic balancer and how important that is. might have to pull that thing apart.

pemd5555

It's probably because you hit your vtec SO hard that it finally said "i quit". haha jk

but seriously when checking everything out and making sure its in spec. dont tighten things more than what spec asks. You can REALLY mess your engine up if you do so. keep it to spec and nothing tighter or looser

T3KNiQe

Would anybody else like to add to this discussion?

I havent adjusted the valves yet, but I already know thats not the problem. When I get to it I'm gonna put new rod bearings and piston seals, Thought about CTR rods/pistons but decided against that. Instead of building the bottom, im gonna spend my money on upgrading the valvetrain.

Now I've gone 60,000 miles with the unorthodox crank pulley, I'm tempted to rebuild and leave it on their and see how much longer I can go with it. Cause seriously 5-8whp is hard to just take away, or should I just go back to stock crank pulley with the light weight flywheeel?

Need_R

Ouch my friend.