murray195

Ok, so my mini-me swap is done except I have run into a problem. I checked for spark the old school way with a screwdriver in the plug end near the hood release and had plenty of spark. I put the plug wire back on the plug, went to start the car and it didn't fire. So I tested for spark again and got nothing! The coil is new so I thought everything was good to go.
On to my question, how can I check the coil pack?
I pulled the coil pack out, got the multi-meter, and put pos to pos and neg to neg. I set the meter to 200 ohms and got a reading of 1.2. But I don't know if that means its good or not. Now before I get told to google it or search the forums, I did both and got <U>zilch</U> haha. So any help would be greatly appreciated!


Modified by murray195 at 4:26 PM 6/9/2007

murray195

I don't know why I don't have spark yet, but I found some information on checking your coil and thought I would share it with the rest of you.

Procedures to check if your Igniter Unit or Ignition Coil is bad.

In order to reach the Igniter Unit, you should remove the Distributor Cap and Leak Cover, which is a plastic thing just under the Rotor (it might help if you remove the rotor as well). Ignition Coil is on top of the distributor (you'll only see it if you remove the Distributor Cap) and the Igniter Unit is a match-box like unit, just under the rotor. You can see it once you take the Leak Cover off. Now you should see 4 wires connected to the igniter: WHT, BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU and BLU.

Now here is how to diagnose problems with the Igniter Unit:
Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltate, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the igniter unit and the ignition switch.
Next, check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check for: faulty ignition coil or an open in the WHT/BLU wire between the igniter unit and the ignition coil.
Next, check for continuity between the WHT wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the WHT wire between the igniter unit and the ECU or poor ground.
Next, check for continuity between the BLU wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the BLU wire between the igniter unit and the tachometer (or the A/T control unit) or poor ground.
And if all continuity and voltage tests are normal (with a known good 50A fuse), but the engine won't start - replace the igniter unit.

Here is how to diagnose problems with the Ignition Coil:
There is a BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires connected to the coil. Call the terminal to which the BLK/YEL is connected terminal A and the other one terminal B. The circular thing on the side of a coil is a secondary winding terminal. Switch ignition to OFF. Remove the screws and disconnect the wires from terminals A and B. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within these specifications: between the A and B terminals - 0.63-0.77 ohms, and between terminal A and secondary winding terminal - 9,760-14,640 ohms.