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$The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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Old 07-24-2014, 09:38 PM   #26
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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Originally Posted by NotARacist View Post
Depending entirely on the condition of the car, anywhere from $800 to $3000. You would need to post pictures for a more accurate answer.
It also skunk2 mani
Dc headers
Full tokata or something exhaust
Black housing headlights
Carbon fiber hood
Red CTR carpet
Clean interior
Nrg full QR steering wheel momo
And duckbill
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:14 PM   #27
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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Has the timing belt already snapped?

$3000 still seems high to me...but then again, Canada didn't get the HX trim level so I don't know what they go for.
Haha, no but I don't think it's been replaced, that's part of how I talked him down from $4200, then to $3500, then I told him no more than $3000 "at this point"

sooo yeah. little concerned about it but I will replace it 1st chance I get, AKA the day I buy it. with 155k I'm surprised it wasn't changed. I'm going to ask the repair shop that did the body work if they have images to share.

Here's how she looks:

Last edited by Figit090; 07-24-2014 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:36 PM   #28
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Haha, no but I don't think it's been replaced, that's part of how I talked him down from $4200, then to $3500, then I told him no more than $3000 "at this point"

sooo yeah. little concerned about it but I will replace it 1st chance I get, AKA the day I buy it. with 155k I'm surprised it wasn't changed. I'm going to ask the repair shop that did the body work if they have images to share.

Here's how she looks:
See if you can WITNESS a compression test done on the engine or do one yourself. If the engine has good compression with less than a 10% disparity between the highest and lowest cylinder, I would get it. It has the rims and the body is in good shape. Great on gas.

It concerns me that she claimed to have changed the fluids every 3K but no timing belt. Is she going senile? Maybe she did change it but forgot.

Strong engine= Strong purchase
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:56 PM   #29
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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It also skunk2 mani
Dc headers
Full tokata or something exhaust
Black housing headlights
Carbon fiber hood
Red CTR carpet
Clean interior
Nrg full QR steering wheel momo
And duckbill
None of which increases the retail value of the car, and none of which is a response to my previous statement.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:34 PM   #30
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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None of which increases the retail value of the car, and none of which is a response to my previous statement.
Lol I posted a picture of it bro...
It's the last post on the first page
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:38 PM   #31
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

No interior or engine shots. No mention of the suspension. Eh. Maybe $3,500. Maybe.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:46 PM   #32
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

I have a b16b complete swap with ecu and trans. Compression is 240 across the board. No grinds, some skunk2 dress up items, extremely clean with receipts. 50k miles. What's it worth if I wanted to sell it relatively quick? The car it came out of I bought for the shell and now have a b16b I don't want nor need. Still in the car, can be test driven.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:49 PM   #33
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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Old 07-25-2014, 02:51 PM   #34
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

Complete B16B's are usually in the $3500-$4k range from engine importers (start up warranties and all that jazz). If you wanted to unload it quick, and assuming you don't want to warranty it, $3k should sell it quickly.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:51 PM   #35
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

So $2000 cash should be obtainable? That's all I was hoping for. I'm in IL and the Honda market seems really weak.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:53 PM   #36
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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Lol I posted a picture of it bro...
It's the last post on the first page
Ah, so one shot that shows us...basically no real detail. Stretched tires? halfstanced? **** that noise, that only lowers value to people who actually have half a brain.

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No interior or engine shots. No mention of the suspension. Eh. Maybe $3,500. Maybe.
$3500 is a stretch. Wouldn't go a penny past three.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:55 PM   #37
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

Notice I said, maybe. I also was thinking 3k.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:18 PM   #38
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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Originally Posted by OptimisticWay View Post
See if you can WITNESS a compression test done on the engine or do one yourself. If the engine has good compression with less than a 10% disparity between the highest and lowest cylinder, I would get it. It has the rims and the body is in good shape. Great on gas.

It concerns me that she claimed to have changed the fluids every 3K but no timing belt. Is she going senile? Maybe she did change it but forgot.

Strong engine= Strong purchase
HOLY crap. ok, so thanks for the reply. Today I went to see the car and I was disappointed. Not severely because I tried not to get my hopes up and it worked.

I look at the car, it looks OK with some minor issues and a dent in the door from a large car door (scrape and a line where it stopped).

Then I open the door and it smells a bit...yep the dog smell was apparent. not horrid but not nice either.

Then I notice the door panel wiggles a lot when it shuts, I think it's been opened because it's so loose. Honda quality? I've driven one honda years ago so I don't know.

Then he says he's had both doors apart because the windows don't roll correctly and one falls off track. Ok...makes sense now. Then I notice the speaker grille falls off when I give it a pull and the plate blocking the side mirror bolts is loose. poor removal job bro....

Then I check the engine and this is where it gets good. The engine was corroded but that's not a surprise so I check the oil. The dipstick pull was broken clean off so I pry it up with my nails and see literally about 1/8" of oil at the end and some residue. so I clean it and recheck thinking "there's no way that's reading"

It was. The guy had only enough oil to touch the end of the dipstick a few millimeters up. not even CLOSE to the lower-level fill line. I asked him when he last checked, added, or changed it and it sounded like months. I also advised him when he was to drive home that he should definitely buy oil first, and air up the low front tire.

We ended our meet shortly after and he left the parking lot without buying oil. We were at walmart.



Glad I dodged that bullet. Poor car. His for sale sign was faded and read $4000 which is $200 less than the CL ad. Now the ad reads $3500 so I'm guessing his other interested parties either saw what I did or he was lying about other interest and he's been trying to sell for months elsewhere.

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll continue my search.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:37 PM   #39
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Default Re: $The Value Thread$ What's It Worth? Should I Buy? What's the Cost?

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Then I open the door and it smells a bit...yep the dog smell was apparent. not horrid but not nice either.
That is ******* GROSS. That's the worst type of smell, too. Someone may as well have **** on the floor.

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Then I notice the door panel wiggles a lot when it shuts, I think it's been opened because it's so loose. Honda quality? I've driven one honda years ago so I don't know.

Then he says he's had both doors apart because the windows don't roll correctly and one falls off track. Ok...makes sense now.
This is very common. The window tracks need to be lubricated with silicone lube to prevent the window from falling off the track. Even a tiny bit of resistance causes the track to flex until the window falls out.

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Then I check the engine and this is where it gets good. The engine was corroded but that's not a surprise so I check the oil. The dipstick pull was broken clean off so I pry it up with my nails and see literally about 1/8" of oil at the end and some residue. so I clean it and recheck thinking "there's no way that's reading"

It was. The guy had only enough oil to touch the end of the dipstick a few millimeters up. not even CLOSE to the lower-level fill line. I asked him when he last checked, added, or changed it and it sounded like months.
I didn't read the entire thread, but if this was a D-series engine, this is also quite common. D-series and H-series engines just like to burn oil with age, no matter how well they are maintained. Obviously the worse it is maintained, the worse it will burn. But it is very common.

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Glad I dodged that bullet. Poor car. His for sale sign was faded and read $4000 which is $200 less than the CL ad. Now the ad reads $3500 so I'm guessing his other interested parties either saw what I did or he was lying about other interest and he's been trying to sell for months elsewhere.

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll continue my search.
Yeah, definitely a good idea to stay away from this money pit. Good choice
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:41 PM   #40
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Wondering how it only has 90k on it but has the engine replaced. The pics in your other thread show the car being in quite the unmaintained condition. I would pass unless you plan on doing most of the work to get it back to where it needs to be.
probably never changed the timing belt. There's a Spanish guy in the town over from mine who is selling a Honda that needs a timing belt every couple of months. "160k" "170k, 100k on motor" "engine half rebuilt" they just keep showing up and its ALWAYS his phone number.. IV called him a few times, even had a translator once, they dont understand that it costs less to maintain a car than have heads rebuild and still install a timing belt. I tried telling them but no they no listen.. No.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:05 AM   #41
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:06 AM   #42
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No interior or engine shots. No mention of the suspension. Eh. Maybe $3,500. Maybe.
I posted a link to the engine bay does it work? And is that a real gsr or an ls??
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:07 AM   #43
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Ah, so one shot that shows us...basically no real detail. Stretched tires? halfstanced? **** that noise, that only lowers value to people who actually have half a brain.



$3500 is a stretch. Wouldn't go a penny past three.
What do you think ?
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:34 AM   #44
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What do you think ?
Is this YOUR car? Are you trying to get one of those ego estimates?

As was said, no more than $3k.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:17 PM   #45
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That is ******* GROSS. That's the worst type of smell, too. Someone may as well have **** on the floor.

This is very common. The window tracks need to be lubricated with silicone lube to prevent the window from falling off the track. Even a tiny bit of resistance causes the track to flex until the window falls out.

I didn't read the entire thread, but if this was a D-series engine, this is also quite common. D-series and H-series engines just like to burn oil with age, no matter how well they are maintained. Obviously the worse it is maintained, the worse it will burn. But it is very common.

Yeah, definitely a good idea to stay away from this money pit. Good choice
Thanks for the feedback. The smell made me feel "cheap" and "kinda dirty" if that makes sense. I'll remember the tips about the window but I've been told they shouldn't shake like I noticed unless they're missing screws.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:29 PM   #46
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Is this YOUR car? Are you trying to get one of those ego estimates?

As was said, no more than $3k.
Nah it's a car I'm looking at but I want to know if it's a real gsr ??
He said take it for 2600
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:35 PM   #47
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Nah it's a car I'm looking at but I want to know if it's a real gsr ??
He said take it for 2600
I mean, it's a VTEC head, but we don't know what the block or transmission are.

$2600 seems reasonable, as long as the CEL works and isn't on, and the car runs smoothly.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:42 PM   #48
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I mean, it's a VTEC head, but we don't know what the block or transmission are.

$2600 seems reasonable, as long as the CEL works and isn't on, and the car runs smoothly.
How can I check if the transmission and block are gsr ?
And that's with my steelies haha.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:44 PM   #49
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Update he said it is on... For o2 sensor and he can even show me it is that I'm assuming he has a scanner
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Old 07-27-2014, 03:26 PM   #50
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How can I check if the transmission and block are gsr ?
Check the part number on the transmission and the engine code on the block.

A USDM/CDM GSR block will say B18C1. A JDM GSR block will say B18C.

A GSR transmission may be difficult to identify. Refer to this chart:
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