Originally Posted by RedShiftChris

Street "Mild Performance"
Front Camber: -1.0°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole.)
Front Toe: Factory setting
(0 total)
Rear Camber: -0.8° to -1.5°
(This range is the same as factory because not all Civic's had the same camber. Early on in the Civic's production, customers complained of too much wear on the inside edge of the rear tires; so Honda equipped some Civics with a "C" stamped upper rear control arm to reduce camber from approx -1.5 to approx -0.8. The less camber you run, the better your tire wear will be but the less grip you will have in back for extreme handling maneuvers. I would recommend -0.8 for anyone super concerned about tire wear and -1.5 if you want to retain the best rear grip at all handling levels (because that is where Honda originally set it.) Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.
Rear Toe: 0.06° per side (a positive number is toe in)
(on the safe end of the available factory range.)


Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.)
Front Toe: 0 total
(0 toe is factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.)
Rear Camber: -1.5°
(provides better rear grip for extreme handling. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)
Rear Toe: 0.04° per side (a positive number is toe in)
(on the more aggressive end of the available factory range.)


Race (Autocross or Track)
Front Camber: -2.0° or more
(2 Ingalls bolts per side needed at max adjustment setting provides a hair over -2.0°. Some super fast people are running over -3° with camber plates on coilovers. The ASR camber plates by themselves provide only up to -2.5° camber because more is not possible without notching the ~4" hole at the upper strut mounting position...and this is not a legal mod for most race classes. To get more than -2.5°, you must use a combination of camber plates and camber bolts.)
Front Toe: -0.16° to -0.32° toe per side (a negative number is toe out)
(This will make the car wander when going straight but will drastically improve cornering.... the range -0.16° to -0.32° equals 1/16-1/8" toe out for those doing toe settings manually. Best place to start is -0.16° if you are not sure. Toe out will chew up the inside edge of the front tires on a daily driver; so this is a race-only setting.)
Rear Camber: -2.0 or more
(more rear camber provides more consistent grip in back through the run/lap so you can attack the run all the way to the end without loosing the rear end. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)
Rear Toe: 0.04° toe per side (a positive number is toe in)
(or 0 if you can handle it.... but you definitely want to start with 0.04° toe in because 0 toe or toe out in back can creep up and bite you hard if you are not ready for it.)


Here is the link if you want to get more technical details about suspension setup and how other parts affect handling of the car:

http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/R...20Packages.htm

Originally Posted by DaveSi677 (Post 49877287)

So my friend didn't hook me up with his GoPro :(

Anyways the track was 5.7 km with a lot of turns... when I mean a lot I mean a lottttt lol!

I realized I need to upgrade to SS brake lines and better brake fluid. I reached the boiling point many times and would have to take 15 minute breaks between every 5 laps (this doesn't include the in lap and the out lap so 7 total but those 2 are at slower speeds)

Got to go for a ride in a race prep ITR with a K20... HOLY SHIT WAS THAT INSANE!!!!!!!!!

Forgot my gloves in Montreal so I picked these up at the beginning of last week.

http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalo...ge%20Large.jpg

Originally Posted by junkyard racer (Post 49920408)

Has anyone experienced any oil starvation issues with the K24? I know it was an issue for the K20's, just wondering if it has been addressed for the K24.

I have done some searching around but am only finding info for the K20, not the 24.

Originally Posted by vian11 (Post 49920503)

thanks for the info bro