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Old 09-25-2018, 08:04 AM
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Default 2006 Civic AC question

I have a 2006 Honda Civic EX coupe.

When I got the car I was told the a/c compressor was on it last leg, it is full on freon and it would blow cold then warm for a bit them cold. What I didn’t know if I was suggested to replace the good portion of the system.

can I just replace the compressor or do I have to do the other item replacement.
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:25 AM
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Default Re: 2006 Civic AC question

Why/how is the compressor on its last leg? Blowing cold for a bit, then warm, then back to cold can be any number of things. An accurate diagnosis couldn't really be made at this point. What is the service history on the A/C unit? How was it recharged last? What is the ambient temperature? Do you know what the high and low side pressures were reading when the issue occurred? Does it EVER cool decently?

Typically when a compressor is replaced you will also replace the receiver drier. The receiver drier's purpose is to absorb moisture and air contamination in the system. It is usually replaced whenever the system is exposed to the atmosphere. Companies will not warranty a compressor unless you also change the expansion valve. I've gotten away without doing this, but your mileage may vary.

If you were suggested to replace the whole system, then I assume the compressor killed itself internally and shed metal through the system. Is the A/C oil clean, or is it dark/murky or shiny with metal shavings? If this is the case, I would personally replace the condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, receiver drier, and compressor; then flush the lines. Then measure oil, and charge refrigerant by weight with a digital scale.

A/C work is out of the question for most people. It takes several hundred dollars in specialized tools to do the job correctly. Please get back to us so we can at least point you in the right direction.
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Old 09-25-2018, 12:20 PM
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Default Re: 2006 Civic AC question

Originally Posted by sumdewd
Why/how is the compressor on its last leg? Blowing cold for a bit, then warm, then back to cold can be any number of things. An accurate diagnosis couldn't really be made at this point. What is the service history on the A/C unit? How was it recharged last? What is the ambient temperature? Do you know what the high and low side pressures were reading when the issue occurred? Does it EVER cool decently?

Typically when a compressor is replaced you will also replace the receiver drier. The receiver drier's purpose is to absorb moisture and air contamination in the system. It is usually replaced whenever the system is exposed to the atmosphere. Companies will not warranty a compressor unless you also change the expansion valve. I've gotten away without doing this, but your mileage may vary.

If you were suggested to replace the whole system, then I assume the compressor killed itself internally and shed metal through the system. Is the A/C oil clean, or is it dark/murky or shiny with metal shavings? If this is the case, I would personally replace the condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, receiver drier, and compressor; then flush the lines. Then measure oil, and charge refrigerant by weight with a digital scale.

A/C work is out of the question for most people. It takes several hundred dollars in specialized tools to do the job correctly. Please get back to us so we can at least point you in the right direction.
the last leg but was stated to me by the guy that was selling it, I put Freon in it but only was able to take 3oz. The places I called all wanted to do a complete ac work to it, I was wondering if I can only just change the compressor. But I also didn’t check the oil and what not.
Old 09-25-2018, 12:51 PM
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Default Re: 2006 Civic AC question

Last leg is a very broad label. I just did a compressor on Saturday in a 350z that would not pull the low side down AT ALL (worn compressor), and I've also replaced a Civic compressor that blew the casing into pieces. The difference is the 350z had clean oil, so I took the risk in just doing a compressor/receiver. The latter had to be a full system rebuild as described.

Were any of those shops able to cite a specific failure point of your system? Generally the best way to troubleshoot is to start with a fresh recovery, drain, and refill by weight. With the system being monitored on manifold gauges the shop can determine the correct repair procedure. Have they done this, or are they taking your word for it being on the "last leg"?

At the bare minimum the receiver drier needs to be replaced. This is only assuming the compressor hasn't shred its guts through the system. The shops are quoting you for a full rebuild because they can't guarantee anything except a full rebuild if the compressor contaminated the system.
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