When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello - I have a 2004 Honda Civic LX Sedan (4-door) and I'm having a hard time getting rid of the srs light. I've read the codes and I get two sets of real quick flashes, hard to count (maybe 5-4 or 4-3 or maybe 4-4). Then, I get two slow flashes and then three fast flashes and these two keep repeating. The set of two really quick sets of flashes that are hard to count only happens once at the beginning.
I believe the 2 slow and 3 fast flashes is the code for a short or low resistance in the passenger side front dashboard airbag. So, I've removed the air bag completely and I am trying to use resistors to diagnose and get rid of the srs light, thinking maybe the air bag is bad.
There are two pairs of wires that go to the front passenger dash airbag, a yellow pair and a red pair. Using resistors I've tried 2 ohm on each pair, 2.4 ohm on each pair, and 3 ohm on each pair and when I do the srs reset the light comes back on for all. I've had it go out for a couple days, a day, a few hours type thing, but generally it just comes right back on after resetting it.
Does anyone happen to know what I'm doing wrong or maybe what to do next?
This is an older car that I try to do the work on my self and really would like to figure this out and fix it myself if at all possible.
I'd never work on the airbags - too dangerous.
Did you get the recalls done for both airbags?
Get the actual SRS code to diagnose or better yet take to the dealer to repair.
Recalls are done and not showing - a while back I guess - I bought the car used. Airbags aren't too bad to work on, you just have to make sure the battery has been disconnected for a while before messing with them and don't go poking at the air bag with meter's and what not, which is why I have removed the air bag and using the dummy load resistors to try and bug it out. I am beginning to think that where the airbag connects to the harness leaving the SRS brain is the issue. The airbag harness has four pins the short out and when plugged into the harness that goes to the SRS brain I'm assuming they lift off the shorting bar. If they aren't lifting or if they lift and then slide back down that'd explain the short/low-resistance. This weekend I plan on putting the dummy loads onto the harness that leaves the SRS brain to see if that my do it.
Has the Seatbelt buckle been replaced? I had mine done with the airbag recall in July of 2018.
We'll, you may have been correct, but I'm going to drive the car a few more days to see. I put the dummy load resistors for the air bag directly on the srs harness going to the srs brain, tried to reset the codes and it made no difference, the lite stayed on. So, I assembled the dummy load resistors back to the air bag harness and added a dummy load resistor to the yellow srs connector under the passenger seat, tried to reset the codes again and the light went out. That was yesterday. We drove some yesterday shopping, etc, and about 130 miles today and the light is still out. I'll update if the light stays out, comes back on, etc. If the light stays out for the coming week, next weekend I will try hooking the air bag back up and see if the lite stays out and go from there.
The light stayed out, so, I put the airbag back in last weekend. I had to use two universal airbag plugs as the original ones had it. The universal plugs snapped in good and tight. The airbag lite stayed off all week So, today I removed the pretentioner to see if it had a broke wire or something. The short length of harness that connects to the pretensioner had continuity, but when checking it I noticed that the connector that goes on the pretentioner itself doesn't snap in. The plastic cover that goes over the pretentioner has a lip/shelf for lack of better words that is supposed to hold the cap down and keep it from popping off. Well, the plastic cover was warped enough that the cap could lift most of the way off. So, four holes and two zip ties later I had the cover pulled in tight with one zip tie and the cap secured down with another. I hooked it all back up and the light is still off with the pretentioner plug in and no dummy resistors. We'll see how things go for a while and I'll update whether it stays off or comes back on.
Here's what I've learned to watch out for.
1 - the srs code showing may not be the correct code. In my case the only code was the passenger dash airbag.
2 - you can get airbag plugs that snap in nice and tight.
3 - your seat belt pretentioner plug can pop most of the way off if the plastic cover that goes on the pretentioner warps.
So, I report back in a few, maybe a week or so, and let you know how things go.
I am not sure I follow what you did? Firstly, its super easy to read your srs malfunction codes with the OBD connector, two paper clips and the ability to count the codes. Just do a google search for how or find a copy of the service manual for this gen civic. The manual spells out all of the codes and what is needed to fix. I believe the system will only display two codes at a time, so fixing one might then allow another to pop up. On the Acura EL I got for my nephew recently the code was 10-1 which meant a curbside accident caused the seat belt tensioners to deploy and as a result-- the srs unit, both front impact sensors, and the drivers side belt and buckle assemblies had to be replaced.
For what it is worth I learned that the SRS control units have to have the same part number as your original to work. I first tried a 2001 used unit, but while I was able to fix and clear some of the codes it would not recognize the front impact sensors. By checking a Honda parts site I was able to determine that the srs control unit from a 2001 was not compatible with a 2002, and that there was a further change in 2003. There was also a change in the front impact sensors part number in 2003. Anyway I was able to identify the proper part numbers needed, went to a pick and pull place and with the proper parts was able to fix everything and reset the srs light after initiating the occupant sensor using two paper clips and the srs reset plug to be found in the underdash fuse box.
I really don't see how your connectors got warped, but then the climate in Canada is a bit different than some hotter regions.
The connector on the seat belt part didn't warp, the plastic part that covers the connector warped. When it warped it allowed the connector to slide up. The codes are easy to read and I have the Honda, by Honda book for the car. The code didn't match the problem in my case...
??? If I read your first post correctly, the original code you had was 22-3-- Short to another wire or decreased resistance in front passenger's seat belt buckle tensioner. So you found the problem was the connector under the seat? I guess I am just unclear how the spring latch would warp from heat in that particular location. I can see it getting physically damaged by something wedged under the seat or disconnected, but I cannot see how it would get hot enough to melt. So if I understand you cut your old connection out and spliced in the new wiring with the universal plug to your passenger seat seat belt buckle and that basically resolved the short in the wire harness, and fixed the error code.
PS the fast dashes at the start count as 10 and if you have two sets of them it counts as 20. Then add the 2 long dashes and the final 3 short ones. I assume you had the one code repeating itself.
It wasn't the spring latch that was warped either. On this honda if you follow the air bag wires under the seat they lead to the seat belt pretentsioner. The pretentioner has a cover. That cover is that only thing that holds the srs connector to the pretentioner and does so by a ledge/lip. The cover warped out of shape and led let the connector slide up enough so it wasn't making a connection. I've attached a picture of the pretentioner. This was the only thing wrong in my case. However, since I remove the single use connectors from the dashboard Airbag I replaced those with the new ones shown in the picture above. The original code point to the dash board, not the seat. Anyways - easy fix and hoping it may save someone else some time and money. If it didn't remove the dash airbag connectors the total cost of the repair would have been a little time and a couple zip ties... Anyways... Hope this helps someone out there... Have a good one and end of post for me...
I just looked at my old one, I still don't see how that would happen. All I can think of then is that one of the wires in the section wrapped in electrical tape that goes under the seat frame got stretched and frayed, hence the short. Still curious what you think the original code was because what you described is code 22-3, and the buckle you replaced assuming its the one in the pic was the passenger seat belt buckle, correct?
PS-- for anyone seeking a replacement at a pick and pull yard, one way to tell if the buckle tensioner has ever deployed is that it will have a curve to it where the flex part is. A good one is much straighter. I would take a pic of my old bad one and post it, but it appears I cannot post pictures yet.
The original code was 2 short and three long (2-3). The warped plastic allowed the srs/airbag connector to slide up and no longer make contact - it's an open, not a short. The connector on mine does not snap in, only the little plastic ledge/lip that is part of the cover holds the connector down and in place. The warped cover allowed the ledge/lip to no longer hold the connector down to make a good connection, hence the open (again, not a short). So, a couple holes and zip ties later it was fixed and is all that was needed from the get go. Hopes this helps someone out there...
I don't know how to make it any clearer than that, best I can do
''I've read the codes and I get two sets of real quick flashes, hard to count (maybe 5-4 or 4-3 or maybe 4-4). Then, I get two slow flashes and then three fast flashes and these two keep repeating.''
The two sets of real quick flashes count as 10+10 then +2 slow flashes and 3 fast ones= 22-3
Near as I can tell the original diagnostic code was correct in guiding you towards the problem. Normally they suggest to replace the buckle receptor assembly. What you did was more brilliant in that you found the source of the fault, and that your fix allowed you to reuse your existing buckle receptor rather than having to replace. I think the confusion was I did not see how the computer would misdiagnose a component fault. I think you just misread the code.
My srs light stays on sometimes for a few seconds when I first start my car and then goes off, is this a cause for concern? I don't see any codes when I use an OBDII reader and had the recall done at the dealership.
That is perfectly normal. You will notice whenever you start the car or turn the key to the II position that the srs light will come on for approx 5-6 seconds and then go out. Basically, the system is doing a self-check. If it stays on then you have a problem in the srs system.
Anyone deal with a 1-1 srs code? I have the 1 long and 1 short blinks (after bulb check sequence) on my 1999 Honda Civic EX. Came on all the sudden for no season. That, and my cruise control stopped working. Related? Would the srs fault stop the cruise from functioning? Is this a safety measure. Everything was working fine, then one day, srs light on and no cruise control.
Worth mentioning : vehicle has an open recall for the driver side airbag inflator. Going in for recall replacement 12/7/2021
SRS DTC 1-1 is an open in the Driver's Airbag Inflator. Wait until you have the recall performed as it is likely this code is related. Similarly with the cruise control, it may be related.
SRS DTC 1-1 is an open in the Deriver's Airbag Inflator. Wait until you have the recall performed as it is likely this code is related. Similarly with the cruise control, it may be related.
I'm hoping the recall replacement does fix the srs 1-1 code. It's weird, however with the cruise. I can get it to work sometimes. I THINK the button on the steering wheels is faulty. When it DOES work, and I try to cancel it out by pressing both buttons simultaneously (it's a 2 button cruise) it'll only accelerate. It's as if the DECEL/SET button isn't registering, only the ACCEL/RESUME is registering.
The cable reel in the steering wheel is common to both airbag and the cruise control buttons... See how you make out first with the airbag.
@NDNV : Back from dealership from the airbag recall replacement (replacement of the airbag inflator). So before I had an "intermittent" failure, reading code 1-1 from jumping the plug behind the passenger kick panel. It was intermittent because the code (main code and sub code) cycled only once. Now, the code repeats indefinitely, meaning a "perminant" failure. AND, after I reset the code successfully, it comes back on and stays on. It'll never go out completely and stay off. Think it's the cable reel? My horn works though. Cruise was working intermittently, but hasn't worked at all for days. When it WAS working lately, it wouldn't cancel. Like when I pressed both cruise buttons simultaneously, it would only accelerate, not cancel. Leading me to believe the button control itself were faulty. Weird. Any thoughts?
I may just buy a used cable reel online and see if that fixes it.
Last edited by D16HighMileage; 12-08-2021 at 04:49 AM.
Honestly don't know what to tell you at this point.
You should troubleshoot the cruise control first before considering replacing the cable reel.
Did the dealer say anything about the SRS code? Did they let you go with the SRS code 1-1 Open in the Driver's airbag inflator? Could be a faulty airbag, an open or increased resistance in the cable reel - replace cable reel, faulty SRS unit or poor contact at the SRS main harness connector and the SRS unit, or a faulty SRS main harness.
Honestly don't know what to tell you at this point.
You should troubleshoot the cruise control first before considering replacing the cable reel.
Did the dealer say anything about the SRS code? Did they let you go with the SRS code 1-1 Open in the Driver's airbag inflator? Could be a faulty airbag, an open or increased resistance in the cable reel - replace cable reel, faulty SRS unit or poor contact at the SRS main harness connector and the SRS unit, or a faulty SRS main harness.
So yea, dealership let me go with the SRS light on. I told them I knew it's on and that I read a 1-1 code and what that meant. I wasn't gonna pay the $80+ diagnosis fee just for them to tell me what I already knew. TheyThey're no help. I literally only went in for the recall because the SRS light suddenly came on one day. Figured it could be the inflator, since I was getting the 1-1 code. I'll troubleshoot the cruise next week. It's just strange both happened simultaneously and I still have my horn. Maybe my horn will go out then I'll KNOW it's my cable reel.
01-21-2019, 04:06 AM
SRS Lite Questions, Help...
