g35silversurfer

Hi,

I have another thread, but no one will answer my questions.

I have a 2001 Civic EX.

I have a p1259 code. I've tracked it down to being either the vtec assembly is bad, or the ECU is a dud.

I can get a ECU for $70 or a D17 Vtec for $60.

50/50 chance to fix my issue.

I called the local honda mechanic place and asked if I could just borrow a known good ECU for 5 mins to rule out the ECU being the culprit.

He said you can't just swap a ECU, you have to swap data from the old one to the new one.

Is he full of crap? I've never heard that before, and know for a fact on hondas up to 2000 it's just fine to swap ECUs

I asked him what are the consequences and he said the sensors wont work.

He said for $50-80 they can diagnose my problem.

But I could just take that money and have a 50/50 chance at just fixing it.

Someone please voice their knowledge.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

You'll have to have the new ECU programmed to match your keys/keyring for the immobilizer that comes in 2001+ Civics.

Lowman

I dont see what the issue would be with sensors but youll have to take it to the dealership to have the immobilizer and your key to work together

Yea what he said

g35silversurfer

This civic has a immobilizer?

my key isn't the kind that has a microchip in it... I'm confused...

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

If it looks like this, it has a chip in it.

http://img1.cdn.tradejob.net/Y201010...Master+Key.jpg

g35silversurfer

I guess I should take my chances and swap the vtec first then ehh?

because it's only $50, and the ECU will cost me $70 + however huge amount to have it installed by HONDA or a Honda-shop.

tonyscott67

There are a lot of DIY's online and also there are other shops much cheaper than the dealers.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

If you're referring to the VTEC solenoid, then I guess you could try it first.

g35silversurfer

Well I've already done every test in the Honda service manual that I can at my house without the hose pressure tests you hook up in line with the vtec pressure switch.

And without being able to do that one, I can't rule out whether it be the pressure sensor or the solenoid.

I did swap my d16Z6 vtec pressure sensor onto it and still got the CEL to come on.. but maybe the d16z6 switch is different? has diff part number...

if the "solenoid" is the entire thing that bolts to the head, then yeah, the solenoid is what I need to swap. To me it looks like a big piece of metal that houses a pressure switch and a solenoid, so I have a hard time calling it one thing versus the other.

I wish I knew someone locally who had a d17 so I could just swap the vtec momentarily to find out if that's my problem.

I'm very tempted to just follow the next d17 coupe I see and when they stop, get out and ask them if I could do that.

I almost did yesterday but I was too late, they already went inside lowes...

theineffable

You can aw the ecu if you have the key for the new immobilizer. You just have to hold the key near the ignition when starting the car.

Note I think 04-05 ecu's are incompatible because Honda switched from an o2 sensor to a wideband af sensor

g35silversurfer

update
have a 02 vtec solenoid coming in mail today. Will slap it on and post whether it fixed it or not.

and if not, then yeah, I'll have to go the ECU route.

so I could avoid taking it to the dealer/shop and swap the ECU out myself if I find a 01-03 EX ecu and hold it's key close to the ignition every time I start my car?

That would be irritating lol, probably just fork the cash to have them do the ecu swap...

g35silversurfer

update

Well the vtec came in the mail today.

I reset the ECU, swapped it on.

Took off for a drive, no CEL. got on it a couple times and no CEL and just as I was starting to smile thinking it was fixed, CEL came on

So now I guess it is the ECU.

Is there any other possible culprit?

Since it's not the vtec solenoid, or the pressure switch, and no shorts/breaks in the wires to the ECU.

g35silversurfer

okay I found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160700855890...witem=&vxp=mtr

will that be all I need to swap it over? key/locks/ignition/PLR vtec 5spd ECU ?

will it be okay that it's coming from a Canadian model???

and this is costing me $100 and probably 4 hours in my garage swapping it all.

Am I really avoiding much trouble/money by doing this myself versus buying just a ECU and having Honda install it?

I figure they would charge a grip...

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

To be honest, I don't even know if this will fix your issues. I would have the car inspected at the least (some Honda dealerships will inspect without going into parts replacement).

theineffable

You said you wanted to borrow an ecu for testing. I offered the solution to you so you don't end up paying for programming before you find out whether the ecu is the problem

g35silversurfer

well the problem is i don't have access to a ecu...

92lxsleeper

pretty sure if it was the ecu, the light would come on asap. you may need to dive in deeper, maybe the oil galley in the block for the vtec is plugged, if its like the d16 blocks and is between cylinder 2+3

g35silversurfer

well if it's a vtec code p1259, it would only come on once vtec is engaged, therefore the blockage would present itself and the CEL would come on.

I'm hoping it's just the ECU.

And next on my to do list.

I mean, when I first got the car about two months ago, the CEL would go away occasionally and I would have vtec, and rev past 4k.

it was back and fourth until it just became where the CEL is on all the time now...

when I bought the car it wasn't on. two days later I notice once in a while i couldn't rev past 4k rpms.

a few days later I get the codes read, one for the IACV and one for p1259 vtec.

... and as time progressed I fixed the IACV and revving idle by replacing the complete throttle body with another one w/ all sensors and low mileage.

because the iacv would "NOT" come off the throttle body. it's phillips screws, and they strip dammit.

anyhow swapped that. fixed idle. no iacv.

cant get rid of p1259.

continuity in all wires between vtec and ecu.
swapped vtec. nothing...

mike93eh2

lol...i hinted to you the problem. stop wasting your time and money.

g35silversurfer

^wasn't the oil weight. did a fresh 5w20 change, reset ecu, drove it, first time I went up to 3500rpm CEL came on...

going to go ecu route, or take it to the honda shop up the road and have them diagnose it for $50-which I really hate to do, because it's most likely a bad ECU.

only other things it could be is it had the head gasket replaced and they put it on wrong blocking the oil passage for vtec, *but I doubt that because when I first got the car the cel would go away sometimes.

blockage in oil passage between cylinders like that one guys says it could be.
I hope it's not that...

someone told me oil pump may be going out.. but in the dealer manual a p1259 never in any way points to oil pump.

and wouldn't the oil light be on in my cluster?

civicjunkie17

iTrader: (1)

The oil pump is driven by the timing belt on most Hondas, not completely sure about yours. But if you vtec is not engaging it could be because the solenoid is not reaching the right amount of oil pressure it needs to see. The oil pump does not create pressure it moves volume.

Think about it like this. Take a water hose, turn the hose on, now put your thumb over it. It creates more pressure. The clearances in your engine are what create pressure not the pump. Good luck on figuring out what it is.

g35silversurfer

i don't understand why the service manual would never point to that being the cause.

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/11...lfunction.html

if it doesn't show high enough psi it just says check the solenoid...

90civicstdgold

Sounds to me like you need to do a better job with your diag

g35silversurfer

^ you want to explain pal ?

blindrosco

Did you ever figure out the problem with this? My 03 is doing the exact same things, and I am down to the ecu and don't want to replace it either.