OSK Automotive

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tadehi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if I buy the Kamakazi headers and the downpipe with the cat. I simply take off the old manifold and cat, put in the new headers, put the downpipe w/cat screw them together and screw the downpipe with cat to the rest of the exhaust? No welding required.

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, sorry I didn't make my post or my edit clear. If you want to keep a cat for everything to bolt up you have to by an ex header and an oem ex downpipe or the random tech downpipe. A Kamikazie header will not work with an oem downpipe or the random tech one since it is designed for a lx.

Vantage

just get the header, drive it to a muffler shop, pay the $$ to get an SRT-4 cat ( bigger diameter, and in my experiences works awesome) and get a flexpipe added to connect the downpipe to the cat, and the car to the rest of the exhaust.

Ahknodd

Here's the scoop man...
The LX exhaust system is gay... I don't believe there is an aftermarket header that will bolt up to your stock cat. So you want to get a good EX header (like I said my buddy has a Tsudo header and it was awesome! And I hear the DC Sports headers don't gain much in the 01+ Civic, just what I've heard from others). The EX header will bolt right up to your head and you'll have to get an OEM EX cat or an aftermarket cat. -OR- you can make a test pipe which will delete your cat. This is the most powerful setup, but your car will not pass emissions. But what I did is I got a Catco OEM replacement cat (cheapest I could find) and flanged it the same as my test pipe and so when I need to go register my car and pass emissions I put on the cat and I'm good to go. The come home and pull it out and slap in that test pipe. It's not hard to do and will get you the most gains, and most exhaust shops can do it, I don't my cat flanged and my test pipe made for 45 bucks... my buddy had to pay 75 though, so somewhere in there.
Anyway, you'll also have to get an O2 sensor simulator like one from Casper's electronics or else your ECU will throw a code and you'll run rich. They cost like 75-85 bucks from their website and you need it because you no longer have a cat and the second O2 sensor (which is after the cat) will see the wrong amount of Oxygen and will throw a code. The simulator stops that, but telling your ECU a the correct numbers and everything is all good. My buddy has that and has had no codes and no problems too. He hit a 14.3 a few weeks ago in his O1 LX, so I think it's runnin hella good.

So it's either, stay stock, buy EX header and cat, or EX header test pipe and O2 simulator... I'd go with the last one. It makes a huge difference... and if you get and exhaust (again for an EX, works okay needs a bit of modifying, but not too much) then you'll really have a fun car.

Let me know if you don't understand somethin or need more info... I've deleted my cat and so has two of my friends, so I know what needs to happen. Good luck.

Lates, Davey

Vantage

no one will ever run a 14.3 on a LX with i/h/e ever.

with a 75 shot, ill believe it... N/A... i doubt he broke 15.3's.

and as ive said b4, get the Kamikaze header, its the best header made for either a d17a2 or d17a1, get a SRT-4 or Catco cat, and 2.25" exhaust.

THIS WILL BE DAMN NEAR BEST LEGAL POSSIBLE SETUP FOR AN EM2.

Ahknodd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18a_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no one will ever run a 14.3 on a LX with i/h/e ever.

with a 75 shot, ill believe it... N/A... i doubt he broke 15.3's.

and as ive said b4, get the Kamikaze header, its the best header made for either a d17a2 or d17a1, get a SRT-4 or Catco cat, and 2.25" exhaust.

THIS WILL BE DAMN NEAR BEST LEGAL POSSIBLE SETUP FOR AN EM2.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I forgot he is using nitrous. It's only a 50 shot though. He's only got intake, header, no cat, exhaust, ACT flywheel, Ram Clutch, and energy suspension motor mount inserts. The kit is a NOS 50 shot wet kit. And he's rolling on 40 lbs. Chrome Alba wheels... check it out.
http://www.dragtimes.com/Honda....html

I would say either go no cat, or just stick with an OEM EX... That's my 2 cents.
Lates, Davey

Vantage

No cat = best
highflow = next best
OEM cat = OEM flow


Think of it this way,

I have no idea what the OEM EX cat diameter is.. but lets say its 1.5" ( its around there probably)

So using a area formula, u get 1.77 inches squared

Now use a 2.25" cat, your area goes up HUGE.. to nearly 4 inches squared.

This is the reason why a larger cat is better ( within reason)

Flow is ONLY as fast as the narrowist section, if u have ANY small pipe, you may as well have everything that small.

For optimum flow you want a 2.25" collector to a 2.25" cat to 2.25" mandrel exhaust.

I wouldnt go any larger than 2.25" for our engines with minor boltons as u will lose backpressure, therefore losing torque.

Trust me on this, I get paid for sizing pipes for city water system's... a cars exhaust is basically the same thing but smaller.

Tadehi