xproductionz

dang.. took us about 4 hours but we finally got it done... dont trust what everyone else says u need.. u dont need the ECU from an EX to convert over.. heres what u will need if you want to avoid getting an ECU from an EX and reflashing ur key:


EX vtec head with solenoid
ex head gasket
and a vafc2


basically if you never have done a head swap before i highly suggest u take it to a shop to do it. we ran into i hiccup after completion cause i had some air bubbles in the coolant but we took care of that in about 10 minutes.. make sure u disconnect the battery before doing the the vafc install


and heres a picture of the cover taken off


the dx head looks like when its off


heres a picture of the ex head.. notice the hanging blue wire.. thats the vtec wire and solenoid...



heres the vafc2 controller.. this is the only way to bypass getting an ECU from an EX and getting your key reflashed


now heres the trick to wiring your ecu.. solder everything and no crimping.. i got a gas powered one so i dont have to worry about running extension cords



now while wiring the vafc2...


first tape off or cap the blue VTM wire cause u will not be using that... also tape off or cap the purple VTEC wire cause u will not be using that either (the DX/LX does not come with a VTEC solenoid signal from the ECU).... also tape the orange wire cause there is no VTC cam signal.. and for other people that are also running the VAFC2 on there EX's we do have a TDC wire on our cars... it would be on pin 26 on the first harness to the left... then follow the installation instructions according to the vafc2 manual using diagram H7-a and dont worry about the other DIY mentioned in another topic thats says to buy a diode.. dont need it... now all u gotta do is finish up ur head install.. as soon as thats done.. remember that blue wire hanging from the EX head.. well cut off the clip


and hard wire it (see the light green wire) from the engine bay into the car next to the ECU... then solder that wire to the pink wire from the vafc... almost there

clean up all ur wires and finish up anything under the hood... fill back ur oil.... add more antifreeze..and now ur car looks pretty much the same when u first started..



haha with the exception of the vtec solenoid and wire.. PLEASE NOTE that if u have had a DX intake then the place where it mounts has to be moved cause that bracket where it used to mount is now replaced with the vtec solenoid..


do the start up proceedures according to what the manual says for the vafc before starting the car... now as for me when i was done.. it took a few minutes before the car actually started... once it finally ran it idled pretty bad and fluctuated... then after a good 2 or 3 minutes the car ran perfectly fine.. my friend says the ecu is just adjusting to the new things we put on there... drove it around for an hour and set my vafc to kick the vtec from


Lo-->Hi at 4700
Hi-->Lo at 4000


just basic settings to get me started but its not even tuned yet and can feel the car pulling alot more when the vtec kicks in

hope this helps
-Mike

brjhnson

Wow i was asking around about doing this because I really want to. How much did you pay for every thing and how much do you think it would cost to get it done at a shop. also were did you buy everything from

theciv

you can get the head and **** at a junkyard from an es1 or an em2 i believe.


then jus by the vafc controller

xproductionz

well.. you have to use the em2... i got the head from a junkyard for $200 and had the head milled before i put it on to rasie compression.. gasket i think was like 30-40... its been a while forgot how much it was.. and the vafc2 was $200.. labor was done myself since we did it at the shop so i cant really tell you how much a shop charges.. call around cause shops differ in price from place to place and state to state

theciv

you could do it yourself though right?

can't be that hard?

pretty much bolts?

xproductionz

well... key things to worry about is..

making sure that everything stays TOP DEAD CENTER while doing it..

and making sure you loosen and tighten the bolts in the right sequence... other than that your good...


another if your going to do this you might as well change the timing belt while your at it

theciv

haha foo sho.


thanks alot. i will do this if i end up getting it


looks like a hell of a fun job and good gains considering i have no vtec

brjhnson

If I go get it from a junkyard what should I look for exactly if I do find the head. For example what pieces

brjhnson

Also I was wandering should I use a D16 VTECH head or a d17 VETCH head

MajinB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brjhnson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also I was wandering should I use a D16 VTECH head or a d17 VETCH head</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG D17!

brjhnson

calm down i have heard of people using a d16 I was just asking.

xproductionz

well.. if anyone wants my head that i used for that swap im selling it...

jivi

Hi newbie here, I have an 2001 LXI gulf specs with D15Y3 engine. Do you think a D17 with Vtec will work as a head swap?
No D15 vtec here in Dubai only a D17 which is a VTI engine has a VTEC.
Will these work also from auto tranny engine then swap to Manual tranny??
Sorry for my ignorance..
TIA

b0yg0tskills

what the heck is a es1? and can you feel a big gain in the head swap you did?

Vantage

es1 = 4 door.

Curiouz_G

is this in the FAQ? If its not, then it should be...

TODD PUT THIS IN THE FAQ!~~~!!

DJaeMac

i was wondering how'd you fix the air bubbles in your coolant?...because mine is also doin the same thing....but i also think its boiling....i still don't know if its my headgasket or my waterpump thats causing that because my car overheats like crazy

b0yg0tskills

the 4 door from the 01-05 ex?

b0yg0tskills

to do this swap...do i have to get the ex headers, and intake manifold?

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b0yg0tskills &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to do this swap...do i have to get the ex headers, and intake manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. Why would you? The mounting points are identical.

blackcivic20

do you know of a good place to bye a gasket set from for a resinable price? thats all i need to get

Honda Rules

nice very nice

Boilermaker1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackcivic20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you know of a good place to bye a gasket set from for a resinable price? thats all i need to get</TD></TR></TABLE>

hondaautomotiveparts.com
the head kit is around $120 for all of them

blackcivic20

thanks alot i needed that and now i am almost done.

blackcivic20

does anyone know what the black round thing is that is on the left side of the engine, wires would usually come down with the ones wraped in the blue and do you need it because i dont see it in this pic.
thanx.