Matthew Hewlett

Ok. Im 17 years old. No im not the typical teenager ricer that probably lingers these fourms. About 2 months ago i had zero automotive experiance until my d17a1 motor blew on the side of the highway. With zero automotive experiance aside from my own oil change i decided to replace it myself. Bought a d17a2 from a junkyard, courrired it home. Downloaded a service manual bought about 500$ worth of tools told my parents id need the garage for a bit and got to work. They were stunned when i told them id do it as they had no automotive experiance either. About 2 and a halve weeks later my car drives with no issues but a code for an o2 sensor. My junkyard sells any engine for 250$. Im thinking it would be a great project over the summer to build up another engine to be able to handle a 100 shot of nitrous. I dont want to k20 swap as it looks like all in all it would run me 4000$ or so. My parents also dont like it when i block thier garage.... Turbo requires a standalone ecu to run properly and thus all in all ends up costing 3000$. I have already ordered a NX Proton kit as i want to run a 35 wet shot until I can build up an engine to swap in. I am wondering what internal components would need to be upgraded to safely run a 100 shot. I already know of colder plugs and to retard timing. So would it be enough to upgrade to forged pistons and connecting rods? Those seem to be the major upgrades people do to hold more power. Also the re machining of the head and block. The people i have seen also seem to use aftermarket ARP head bolts. I have also heard that it is safer to run a direct port injection so as not to develop a lean condition in an individual cylnder. Am i correct in that it would be safe to run a 100 shot with those modifications? Or are there other things that should be done to protect the motor. I am trying to stay away from having to buy a standalone ecu as the price quickly gets out of hand. I know people will say not to mess with something you cant afford to fix however again a stock d17 in my area goes for 350cad verifyed running and my time doesnt mean very much to me over the summer. I also plan to get a window switch in the future to avoid hitting the revlimiter while spraying. Any suggestions are greatly apprechiated.

Thanks,

matthew

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

To run nitrous properly, you're going to want a standalone ECU of some sort. Otherwise you're not going to be able to adjust fueling for the increase in air in the combustion chamber. This will also hold true for your 35 shot, if you want it to be reliable. And, to be fair, forged rods and pistons are going to set you back some money. And, with those, you'd be foolish not to upgrade the cam, valvetrain, and cam gear if you want to optimize your build. All in all, if you're looking to run a 100hit, you're going to need just as much money as it takes to turbo the car... if not more.