Beats Bang

Today I went to buy a better work light and torqued down the head bolts in sequence to the 3 torque settings and started to adjust cylinder no. 1's intake and exhaust valves but didnt get to rotating to set each cylender to tdc to adjust the valves since the cam and crank are already at tdc. I guess ill just have to take a chance and carefully rotate counter clockwise to set each cylinder to tdc to adjust the rest of the in and ex valves. I was just concerned cause i dont want to damage the valves, but then again the first time when it messed up a year ago, it did jump timing so maybe I shouldnt worry about bending valves just by simply setting each cylinder to tdc to adjust the valves. The only concern I had was simply having the machine shop replace all 16 valves.

tanked_honda

Cool let us know if you get it running.

Beats Bang

So i finally torqued the head down and installed new waterpump, tensioner with new upgraded bolt, timing belt and new crank pulley gear. Only one thing thing concerns me, when I put the timing belt on, I pushed it close up on the cam pulley so when I went to rotate by hand to make sure it was still in Time, the timing belt looks like it was a little shaved off on the a small section as if it were working itself the right way. Its like a thin layer but nothing serious just basically the black color or material was gone. There is not any cuts frays, or gouges. It was late and I was already tired I forgot to take a pic. So do yall think it would give me Any issues? Any thoughts?


Finally buttoning things up!! Just have to reinstall the starter, power steering, alternator, harmonic balancer and do oil change and coolant fill.

Beats Bang

Look pretty lol!
Good news!! I got it running and drove it around since the the day i first posted!!!!!!!! First I would like to say I appreciate the advice, responses and concerns from: in order of apperance lol.
Marcos barrios
holmesnmanny
Justin ripley
Tanked_honda
So Saturday I reinstalled the starter, power steering, alternator, new spark plugs, air resonator box, air filter box, oil change with new filter and crush washer which whoever was changing the oil before I came along stripped the bolt a little bit but just tighning snug was good. I also poured new fresh coolant into the rad and reservoir and burped the coolant lines by squeezing the lower hose. And finally Sunday I charged the battery a bit and plugged in the pgm-fi relay and prayed primed the relay 3 times and started it and it cranked good but I just wanted to get oil pumping so I turned it off and then started it and let it run and then proceeded to continue to burp it with no problems or cel lights until I drove it around and it never overheated or went past the half way mark. So I checked the codes and they were the p1505 Positive Crankcase Ventilation Air Leakage and p0505 Idle Air Control Valve. The engine was kinda funny maybe it hasent relearned the idle or the computer is still fixing itself but it sounded a bit noisy too. Maybe I need to adjust the valves or burp the system some more. Also I believe when i was taking the head off I tore the pcv hose but replaced it with a hose from autozone using the screw on hose clamp, maybe I cut the hose tighning it.

Beats Bang

Whats good people, so I went and bought a new pcv valve non oem, put it in and made the situation worse! Lol so took it out cleaned the old oem one really good and also I thought about why I was getting the p1505 and p0505 Codes and the high 2000 rpm idle. Sure enough I was reasearching that the iac valve and sensor could be gunked up. I removed it and Sure enough it was filthy and the sensor was stuck. I cleaned the valve with brake cleaner and the underside of the throttle body real good and cleaned the iac sensor with mass airflow cleaner and a little brake clean and used compressed air to dry everything. Success!!!!! Now it runs smooth and nice and quiet. I was dreading having to buy a new iac valve and such but finally!!!!!!! So next task is the front suspension!!!!