Battery Light Problem
#1
Battery Light Problem
I'm having issues with a 2003 honda civic coupe. D17A2.
1.Battery light is always on
-had code1298:ELD voltage high, i have replaced it and the code is gone
-no codes
-unhooked sound system they have
-all grounds are good, im talking extrmely low mv.
-alternator brackets all tight, charging voltage is good, battery is new, starter is new.
-ELD working properly(watched scan tool values on modis)
I do know what im doing and am good but this has me pickled.
this is a customers car and the first time i have ran into this problem
if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.
1.Battery light is always on
-had code1298:ELD voltage high, i have replaced it and the code is gone
-no codes
-unhooked sound system they have
-all grounds are good, im talking extrmely low mv.
-alternator brackets all tight, charging voltage is good, battery is new, starter is new.
-ELD working properly(watched scan tool values on modis)
I do know what im doing and am good but this has me pickled.
this is a customers car and the first time i have ran into this problem
if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by neuhauser1; 07-08-2011 at 10:16 AM. Reason: wrong engine code
#3
Re: Battery Light Problem
yes, but it is currently unhooked from the entire system so it does not draw juice, and yes i did mean the D series. thanks for catching that. another thing, i have heard of the pcm keeping the light on or the inst. cluster computer keeping it on as well. im curious if i shuold take the i/c and search for a shorted wire or am i wasting my time
Last edited by neuhauser1; 07-08-2011 at 11:03 AM. Reason: added for less posts
#4
Re: Battery Light Problem
You need one of these. http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...C01&itemtype=N
Start simple, though. Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the alternator. Turn the ignition ON (II) and measure the voltage between terminal #1 (black/yellow wire) and a ground. If there is no voltage, check fuse #4 (10 amp) in the under-dash fuse box. If the fuse is bad, replace it. If the fuse is good, there's an open in the wire between the alternator and the under-dash fuse box. You'll need to find it and fix it.
Possibilities are an open wire, loose connection, a short, or a bad ECU. The troubleshooting is rather lengthy, so hopes of someone drawing it all out is minimal.
Also, do the gauge assembly self-diagnostic.
If the charging system indicator doesn't flash, replace the gauge assembly.
Good luck with it.
Start simple, though. Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the alternator. Turn the ignition ON (II) and measure the voltage between terminal #1 (black/yellow wire) and a ground. If there is no voltage, check fuse #4 (10 amp) in the under-dash fuse box. If the fuse is bad, replace it. If the fuse is good, there's an open in the wire between the alternator and the under-dash fuse box. You'll need to find it and fix it.
Possibilities are an open wire, loose connection, a short, or a bad ECU. The troubleshooting is rather lengthy, so hopes of someone drawing it all out is minimal.
Also, do the gauge assembly self-diagnostic.
Gauge Assembly Self-Diagnostic: Link
Good luck with it.
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