solex

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my LCA vertical bushing with Moog bushing/bearing this weekend at 88K miles. I read up on how to do this but came up with a slight variation that made the process easier. I have a 6 ton press and highly recommend having access to one, if not this job becomes difficult.

I removed the center of the original bushing with a coping saw and then heated up the arm around the bushing for about 1 to 2 minutes using mapp gas. I then sprayed the bearing interface with PB Blaster. You need to have a bearing die set or a socket with the correct diameter to fit on the lip of the bushing. To my surprise it pushed out with quite a bit of force. Most You Tubers cut the bearing with a hack saw or sawzall, I did not want to take the risk of cutting the LCA.

The original bearings were OK but did show some tearing and probably could have gone a bit more but I wanted to fix the rattling. The installation is the reverse, I lubricated all surfaces with lithium grease and made sure the new bearing was square before applying force.

My only problem now is that my Koni Yellow insert just failed and I'm sure the rattling in the front end was due in part to the insert. I ordered a replacement and will send mine back for a complete refund. I was happy to find out that my dampers are warranted for life.

In hindsight it would easier (and cheaper considering time) to purchase new LCA, but hope that the new insert in combination with the Moog Problem solver will tighten up the front end.

bbarbulo

did this job a couple years back, except my rear bushing bolt was badly seized in place. took some oxy-acetylene and a 3/4 inch impact and it came out. glad yours wasn't as stubborn.

you make a reference to buying a whole new arm... I actually prefer to change only bushings where possible. I just trust the original arm a little more I guess, in terms of geometry and strength. When we built OE parts (actually we used to build lower control arms for Jeeps and such) our specs were tighter than when we built 'service' parts a couple years later. Service parts didn't have to pass gauging in the check fixtures for the most part, so geometry could have been off as the fixtures wore out over time.

solex

iTrader: (1)

Good point, I will keep that in mind next time I think about an easy way out...

Thanks

solex

iTrader: (1)

Update, a few weeks ago I replaced the Koni insert, the front end is now smooth and noiseless. The insert is now back at Koni for analysis and hopefully a full refund...