bunso

Ok Guy's amd Gal's,
Just got my car back from dealer it has a P1433, and they said I have to replace my whole battery pack for $2900. Is there any other fix for that?
I don't have that amount of money for the repair.
Also what will happen if I just keep driving the car like that would that mess up my engine?
I'm not usre if hybrid is required for Smog here in California. But if it is will I pass Smog without fixing the problem.
Thanks to all of you in Advance..

bunso

Bump!!! Need help guys and gals

It Wasn't Me

Sorry, bud, but there is a very limited number of Hybrid owners on this forum, and I have no idea. (no reference material) I'm not that familiar with California emissions standards, but I am fairly certain that you won't pass if your MIL is illuminated.

You might want to look around online for a service manual, or a pdf of one that you can download. Hopefully you can save yourself some funds and runarounds.

Good luck with it.

bunso

Tnx for the reply... Well the first Honda dealer I went too are trying to charged me $2900 they said Battery is out of waranty and need to be replace. So it's good I took the car back and pay the $100 fee for the diagnostic. I'm just about to give up and just drive the car with CEL and IMA light on. Then decided to take the car where I bought it for second opinion, and I was actually surprised when they said they will cover a new replacement of battery with no charge.
They did re program my ECU which I read a lot of negative things about loosing miles per gallon. But I was wrong the car was actually running a lot better and added 3 more miles per gallon than it used to be, I used to ran 42mpg now it's saying 45.9MPG.
Im happy about it and I just want to share it with the forum, someone might run as same situation as mine.
By the way I have 112K miles on my car.

gbarbur

Did you by chance ask your Honda Service manager about the extended Battery Pack Warranty?? 11 years or 120,000 miles????

joubaur

Hi,
I'm a California Smog Tech and YES, your car will fail smog.
In fact, I just failed one a few minutes ago which is why I found this thread... looking up those codes for my customer.
Here's the how and why and what to do about it.

Anytime your car has codes the check engine light is on and it will fail.
You have to fix the problem and then drive in order for your computer to run the "Readiness Monitors".

When one of these fails is when your check engine light comes on.
I used to tell people to drive about 30 - 40 miles after the fix and the light was turned off, but about two years ago the state changed the rules.
Now 2000 and newer cars will only pass with zero monitors not run, (except evap. monitor.)
This means that nowadays I tell people to drive more like 300 miles before coming back in for their free retest.
If you know how to read a scan tool, (or see your mechanic,) when ALL the monitors have run and there are no codes, you should then pass your smog.
This means, you will have to replace your battery if there is no other fix.
You can't even sell the car without fixing it since you have to have a smog to transfer the title and it's the sellers responsibility.

*SEE YOUR MECHANIC!
THIS IS NOT A DIAGNOSIS!
This is for informational purposes only.