ROWSC

First off, did the 02 LX come with factory keyless entry?

The previous owner had an aftermarket alarm installed, but it no longer works and isn't supported by the manufacture. She says the keyless entry that came with the alarm worked before the fob died, but she can't remember the last time the lock/unlock switch worked. The locks close fine with the key. I removed the alarm and am trying to get the switch to work again.

I removed the lock/unlock switch and tried jumping the wires, but got nothing. I checked for power and got nothing. Under the dash, I found the two power lock wires that the alarm tapped into (white/blue and white/green) and got 12+ volts. I checked and there is no connectivity between this point and the wires at the switch in the door. Using a long jumper wire, I can make the doors lock and unlock by connecting the wires under the dash to those in the door.

Is it as simple as I have a short somewhere between the foot well and the door switch? I would think that if two hot wires shorted out that I would have a blown fuse somewhere. I Googled the subject and found people who say you have to disconnect the power lock switch to use aftermarket keyless entry systems. My thought is to simply run two new wires from the point I have power and splice them into the wires just before the lock/unlock switch. But I figured I better ask before I start surgery.

Thanks!

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

No it didn't. If there was an aftermarket one added, you'll need to talk to the manufacturer of the aftermarket unit.

Unfortunately, the factory kits that you could add in to your car to add keyless entry, has been long discontinued and the parts are rather hard to find.

silkypillows

Your car has a negative trigger power lock mechanism. meaning at the switch there should be no 12v+. only one wire with continuity to ground at all times, and two others that have continuity to ground when the switch is in the lock or unlock position. if this is not the case your switch is bad or there is no ground to activate the switch.

as far as the lock/unlock wires in the kick panel white/blue - white green. you say they are 12v when metering them to each other, correct? try metering these the same way you did, while operating the switch.


if all that checks out, i would lean towards the Multiplex Control Unit. the mcu digitally controls quite a few functions in your car that were left to separate standalone analog electronics in older Hondas. Are there any other electrical problems? do the door locks function differently with the driver door closed? a/c, dome, chime, wiper-fluid spray all if functioning order? >>even if everything electronic in your vehicle is functioning, the mcu can still go partially bad. although most of the time, several functions of the component are lost.

I don't have a schematic so i cant go in-depth. i would say start by checking all of your fuses. paying close attention to fuses 9-16/hood fuse box and fuse 8/dash fuse box. all three directly MCU related, but it almost definitely has more fused circuits involved.

hope this helps,
silky

ROWSC

Thanks Silky! I'll be able to check those tomorrow. BTW, where is the MCU physically located?

The white/blue and white/green wires had 12v when connected to chassis ground. From what you're saying, that sounds wrong. I think I need to take the kick panel off and make sure the alarm installers didn't do something funky with wiring that I can't see.

Rich

silkypillows

The MCU is located inside the dash fusebox. should be a few threads on HT, if not a google search will help you if removal is needed.

the wiring is most likely correct. negative trigger(from switch to input side of mcu) with a positive output(mcu). with same color multimeter lead one wire should read +12v and the other -12v. reversing to -12v and +12v with lock/unlock.

-silky