gstephen70

Hi all. This is a great site. Thanks in advance. I've replaced the o-ring as per Redbull's advice, but the noise has become even louder and the steering has become even harder. Fluid levels are ok. Honda fluid used. No leaks that I can find (except for a small leak by the crimp on the pressure hose nearest the pump). I've tried to bleed the system by turning the wheel many times. No help. I am about to replace the pump, as it seems relatively easy. I am wondering though, should I flush the fluid first, hoping that the flush will rid me of the noise while turning the wheel? I doubt it will, but I thought I ought to ask.

Also, if I am to replace the pump, from what I can tell, I don't need any tools other than those already in my toolbox. Is this correct? And would you suggest I locktite the bolts? And speaking of bolts, clamps and hoses, should I spring for new ones, or will the original ones suffice. The pressure hose alone is close to $75.

If I am overlooking anything, please feel free to chime in. And again, TIA. Dealer wanted close to a thousand bucks, so I am really happy I found you great group of guys.

BlueKat

If you found a leak on the pressure hose you should fix that first. The pressure in that hose is normally 100 - 200 + psi. Pressure too low for full assist could explain the hard steering effort.

Just my $0.02

gstephen70

Thanks BlueKat. Since the hose itself is barely leaking and costs $75, I am going to go with the PS pump. After just replacing the clamps on the hoses (they are one-use) there is no improvement. I'm gonna replace the pump.

Can anyone see a reason for me to use a OEM Honda part for this, or would a AC Delco (Rockauto)/Autozone part work just as well?

FishyMan

is this an easy DIY?

BlueKat

Hopefully a new pump fixes your problem (and if the noise comes from the pump it should) but before you do, at least check the belt tension and make sure all the lines (esp. the feed and return lines) and cylinder lines aren't kinked or deformed. There's a lot of troubleshooting you can do for a hard wheel before you change the pump, including a pressure test using a valved connector to a P/S pressure gauge that can stress the pump seals if done incorrectly. The pressure test, for e.g. can show if teh prob. is with the steering gearbox, rack guide, or valve body unit (and of course the pump assembly) but requires (three) special tools to connect the gauge in-line.