crxaddikt

my car is an 03 accord LX V6 coupe,

my original master window switch had broken buttons that were loose, so i bought a new master switch from honda.
but after putting the new one on, everything worked except the drivers side window did'nt work at all and you only just hear a click sound when pressing the button.

i started troubleshooting it, the fuses and relay are good,

the wires of the switch harness looked good, only weird thing is that there was a jumper wire on the wires there from the previous owner, it jumped the white wire over so its connected to a black ground wire, and the white wire has something to do with the door locks, but i have no problem with the door locks and so i guess its fine to leave that as it is?

i was testing stuff with a test light, probing the backs of the wire terminals, and the green wire with white stripe and the yellow wire both light the test light up, and when probing the red wire with the black stripe while pressing the window down button, it lights the test light when pressing the down button, but all of the other wires did'nt light up the test light at all ?, and i did this while the ignition key was in the on position at (II).

i also pulled the rubber boot to expose the wiring between the door hinge area and looked at them, and they seemed good, and i wiggled them around as i tried the window switch and did'nt do anything.

then i tried to test the window motor to see if it operates or not, and i did what the helms shop manual steps said, to unplug the 6P plug from the motor, and to connect direct battery power to the terminals 1 & 4, (+ & -), so i did that by clipping my alligator clip test leads to the jumper cable clamps of my portable jump-box, and clipped a skinny nail at the ends of each of the alligator clips of the test leads, and put those in the holes on the plug, and turned the ON switch of the jumpbox ON, but it did'nt do anything at all or even make a sound ?, and i think i did it all correct as far as how it said to test it ?, but it still seems weird that it says to connect to the disconnected plug instead of to the motor itself to test if the motor operates or not ???
if i did do that right, then i guess my motor is the problem ?

i was thinking if i wanted to confirm that i did that test the right way, i could take the door panel of the passenger side off and test the window motor of the passenger side ?, since the passenger side window works when pressing the switch button, so means it should go up or down when testing the motor on that one, therefore i would know i did the driver test right, and know i need a driver side motor.

after the buttons of my original old switch were broken, i still was using it with the buttons removed from it, and i used a skinny metal stick to put through the slot in the circuit board of the switch and slide the little white thing up or down to operate the window, but i usually had to look straight down with a flashlight to just line up the stick to the slider thing, but sometimes i would be just sticking the stick in there while driving, just trying to guess and go by feel, then later the driver window would'nt even work using the stick method either ?, but pass. did, but i was thinking there could be a possibility that i could of shorted something out by sticking that metal stick in there so much ?, around the circuit board and those other parts inside ?, or maybe shorted out the motor for the driver side doing that ???

other than that, i think it would just end of being something in the wiring, cause it seems like there should of been more of them lighting up the test light when probing all of them ?, or maybe putting a jumper wire from one wire to another would make the driver window work ?, cause i have seen lot of people online doing stuff like that and got it working afterwards ?, like jumping the white/green wire to black ground wire, etc...

next i was going to do more wire testing, more in depth, going by the steps in the helms manual,

i just wanted to get people's opinions or feedback on what they might think could possibly be causing it not to work with a new switch ?, and give any guidance on what to try next ?, thanks

SIR-G Amp

First thing I would do is get an etm and make sure it's wired correctly. The make shift wiring the previous owner did is probably cause for this. Anytime someone bypasses something or wires it up different is simply because there was a problem with the original circuit. Have it be a fuse, bad window regulator, wiring.

Wire it back to factory. THEN start your testing. The tests can be pointless if it's not wired factory. In this case, I would put my money on a faulty regulator motor. Which I think on those cars are part of the unit. But, who knows without it being wired up properly

-Amp