gnt2001

My check engine light came on so I went to Auto Zone to get them to check it out on their machine. These codes came up and I am not sure what they mean. Here they are:

P0340 Camshift Position Censor

P0141 Sensor Heater/Circuit Malfunction

P0443 Evap Missions/ Purse Valve (c) Fault

P0498 Evap Emission Control-Valve Malfunction

P0420 Catalyst -Evaporation System (this code came up 2 times?)

Thank you for the help. If anybody can please explain this to me and how much it might cost to get fixed. I am totally confused. God Bless!

Targa250R

What model year and how many miles? Have you had a battery replaced recently at all or has the battery gone dead lately by any chance? Some of these codes can be related to low system voltage and may have been a one-time fluke.

No signal from the camshaft position sensor. I haven't messed with one of those yet on a K24 engine. May have been a one-time hiccup. If the car seems to run well, I'd reset it to see if it comes back.

This is the heater circuit for the secondary oxygen sensor. You need a new secondary sensor. Pretty common for K24A4 engines. The sensor itself is around $89.

A problem with the EVAP canister purge valve circuit. This is an emissions problem with the equipment that captures vapors coming from the fuel system. It does not affect the running or reliability of the car. I haven't dealt with this code yet on an '03+ Accord; it may need a new EVAP canister purge valve ($108), or it may have been a one-time problem. I'd try resetting it first, and see if it comes back.

Another fuel vapor emission control that doesn't affect the running of the car in any way. EVAP canister vent shut valve control circuit low voltage, specifically. I've replaced a number of EVAP vent shut valves on older Accords, Civics, and Odysseys. It very well may need a new one; cost of the part is $91. If it needs a canister as well, that's an additional $101.

The catalytic converter is below the operating efficiency threshold set by OBD-2 standards. This does not affect the running or the reliability of the car in any way; it is strictly emissions related. To make the light stay off, you will need to replace the cat converter. The converter itself is around $955, with additional cost for shields ($45), gaskets ($16), and hardware as needed. If the car is less than 8 years old and under 80,000 miles, Honda will replace it for free under the limited emissions equipment warranty.

Depending on ambient temperatures and how efficiently the cat may be operating at any given time, this code can come and go. Sometimes it will stay off for months if you reset it. Other times, it can come back within a matter of miles.

I can't estimate labor costs for you. The people who can tell you what exactly will need to be repaired and what it will cost to fix are the people who you should have paid to do the scan in the first place - service professionals at an independent Honda repair shop or a Honda dealership.

AutoZone - a parts store - only does free scans because they want to sell you parts. They know nothing about fixing cars. There's a reason it will cost you money for scans and repairs elsewhere; typically, repair shops will charge you again anyway to re-scan and reset the computer if you take the car in for repairs, so you may as well have them scan and diagnose it in the first place.

gnt2001

Much Appreciated!!!!

Honda Accord DX 2004 185,000 miles


1)left my lights on last week and needed a jump

2) replaced a fuse 2 days ago for the cigarette lighter

how do I reset the sensors?

so, if I am trying to save 2K over the next month or two to pay for the repairs.... i can drive the vehicle and it will not hurt the car?

Again, Thanks

redbull-1

Usually a car will not all of a sudden have so many trouble codes from separate items. It may all be related to the battery being jumped and/or what ever caused the fuse to the cigarette lighter to blow.

Targa250R

The dead battery/jump start is likely related to some of the codes.

To reset the computer without using an OBD-2 scan tool or digging through the fuse box, simply remove the negative battery cable for a few minutes. This will erase all stored trouble codes and reset the emissions monitors. If you have an anti-theft radio, you would need to re-enter the radio code to make it work after reconnecting the battery. I don't believe that DX or LX models had an anti-theft radio, so you won't need to worry about that.

Typically the check engine light will come back on within 15-30 seconds of starting the car if you have a bad oxygen sensor heater circuit, so don't be surprised if the light comes back on right away. Just drive the car normally for 50-100 miles and then have the codes re-checked if the light comes on and stays on.

Yes, you can drive it. No, it won't hurt the car. For the most part, you only need to be concerned about damaging the car if the check engine light is blinking, and/or if the car is running badly.

You probably won't need $2000 worth of repairs right off the bat. Odds are that with 185,000 miles the cat is indeed bad, and the oxygen sensor is almost certainly bad too since they're a common problem. These can both be replaced at the same time with a labor overlap since the sensor threads into the cat and must be removed when changing the cat. The cam sensor and EVAP codes were probably related to low voltage.