1.8TTony

Ok, so I'm going to be replacing the v6 engine in a friends 2011 Honda Accord Crosstour. I have never removed a v6 engine from one of these generation Accords. Are there any tips or tricks to making this job go as smoothly as possible.

I plan on pulling the engine up thru the top of the car, not out thru the bottom.
A good/used replacement engine is at my house. I have already installed a new timing belt kit. New head gaskets, resealed the oil pan, new seals, adjusted the valves. Resealed various sensors. Basically, freshened up the engine.

I've looked at the bad engine sitting in the car. Just looking at it, I can see it appears that I will need to remove the oil filter housing, radiator with fan assembly. Front catalytic converter. Obviously the carrier bearing bracket (for the intermediate axle shaft) will have to come off the engine.

Anything else I should be aware of? I really don't want to drop the sub frame, but will (if necessary).

My level of experience with Honda is: I can replace clutches in a couple hours. I can replace Honda engines in a day. I am really familiar with the design and the way Hondas are generally assembled and have every tool needed to pretty much perform any repair a guy can do in his home garage. I work at a Volkswagen service shop and hold various ASE certificates.

Anyhow: Any tips or tricks for these engines installed in these cars? Year is 2011.

I don't care if any exhaust studs snap off. I'll just drill them out and re tap the threads.

Audripulls

Unplug the whole harness injectors,coils everything and move it to the side, while your there remove the p/s pump and move it to the side as well. remove the throttle body, maybe also the, battery tray to give you more room, pull the right axle out and intermediate shaft, since your not pulling the heads off, you'd have to remove the fans and then unbolt the cats, once you have that off you can either pull the alternator out followed by the compressor, or maybe you will have enough room to pick it out with those still attached. Also the starter will have to come off before you can separate the block, as for the mounts you can remove the side one and let it hang, the front and rear mounts have a cover on them I believe they're 14s go ahead zip them off by this time you might want to have the engine raised slightly with a cherry picker so you can fully unbolt the two 17s that each mount has. Not so sure if you might have to fully unbolt the front mount.
i might be missing a few things but if you run into trouble let me know

1.8TTony

Audripulls, Thank you for all the good information. I got the engine out in less than three hours using the tips you suggested. However, there are a few things I did differently. I'll list them below so that anyone else may find that information helpful as well:

Regarding the intermediate shaft and c/v axle. I did not remove the intermediate shaft nor c/v axle (to gain access to the intermediate shaft carrier bearing bracket bolts). Reason being is because I was being lazy and didn't want to reposition the car jacks, jack stands, wheel ramps, etc. What I did was (using a small 3 pound sledge hammer) I tapped the c/v axle toward the wheel hub.....doing this allowed the c/v axle to slide away from it's seated position (though still remaining) on the intermediate shaft. This provided a SMALL gap in which my wrench fit nicely into, allowing access to that one lower carrier bearing bracket bolt. As well as a socket with 1/4" stubby extension to gain access to one of the top bolts. In all, I removed the three bolts which secure the carrier bearing bracket to the engine..............I don't think using this method would be possible without a ratcheting wrench........luckily, I have ratcheting wrenches and removing the three bolts took less than 5 minutes time once I moved the c/v axle.

The rear catalytic converter: I did not remove it from the engine prior to pulling the engine from the car. It is a tight fit between the bottom of the converter flange and the c/v axle, but I was able to lift the engine straight up after removing the strut tower brace. I have an engine leveling attachment on the end of one of my engine hoists. Keeping the engine perfectly level is imperative when lifting the engine with the rear converter still bolted onto the engine. I think, without the engine being level, the bottom of the converter would get banged around and get snagged on things.

I did not remove the battery tray, though I did remove the battery.

The front lower motor/transmission mount/bracket. I pulled the mount cover off and removed the bolt at the top of the mount/bracket. I then removed the four lower bolts which secure the base of the mount to the frame. Everything remained place, nothing moved. Next I removed the bolt which attaches the top mount bracket to the engine. As soon as the bolt was removed, I saw the engine shift a little bit. I then supported the transmission and transmission from below. I next removed the bracket and engine mount......though I don't believe removing that front mount was necessary.

I think the key to removing this engine from this chassis in this manner is #1 Keep the engine level when lifting it out. And #2 Slide the c/v axle towards the right so that there is a gap to fit a RATCHETING wrench (bottom) and a socket (above) (to access carrier bearing bolts).

1.8TTony

Oh, and one other thing: I removed the oil filter housing. Removing the filter housing was necessary to remove the engine......if the housing was still bolted onto the engine, there would be no way possible to lift the engine up out of the engine bay because it protrudes out beyond the distance of the harmonic balancer.