mainah

I have an '06 Accord LX SE, my rear drivers side pads are worn, so I thought that I would replace them. Got a decent price on rotors instead of having them turned down. All things were going better than expected, got the rotor off without diffuculty and then things went bad. Well not bad, I couldn't proceed forward from there. I was unable to open the caliper at all to get the new pads in to fit. I opened the bleed valve and just couldn't compress the caliper. If I hit the caliper with a hammer a shot of brake fluid would come out. I pushed and pried and nothing seemed to work. I put everything back together without a problem. Is there a hidden secret that someone has that could help me out. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help in advance.

BLKFLSH

The piston on the rear calliper has to be turned clockwise, for it to go in. There is a special tool made for doing this, but most people just use a needle nose pliers. It takes quite a push and turn, but it will go in if you are turning it. Just make sure you line the groove back up square, so the tab on the rear inside pad will line up with the groove. You shouldn't even have to loosen the bleeder screw. The brake fluid should just back up in the system. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is not too full when you push the piston in. Hope you didn't screw something up banging on it.

mainah

So on the piston there is an "X", I assume using the needle nose pliers and pushing in and turning clockwise will get it to go in? How about on the passenger side? Is it still clockwise or opposite. Thanks again for the help.

BLKFLSH

I'm pretty sure it's still clockwise, but hey if it will not go in turning it clockwise try the other way. I don't think it would hurt anything if you turned it the wrong way. The screw (I think) is so the emergency brake (which is connected to the rear brakes) doesn't get loose, as the rear pads wear. The screw action takes up the slack. The rear inside pad should have a small tab sticking out the back side. This has to line up with the X in the piston head. Leave the cover off the reservoir, so the brake fluid can go back as you push the piston in. If any brake fluid spills, rinse it off quickly. If no air enters the system, you shouldn't even have to bleed the brakes afterwards. I'm sure, if you did a search, you could find a good how-to here.

philafelman

yes, you turn them both clockwise....just make sure when theyre compressed, there is probably a lil protruding circle on ur new pads, you need to make sure that that goes into the groove on the caliper piston....so make sure its lined up before you install the pads. also, if ur getting irregular wear, use a wire brush to clean all the caliper mounts for the pads and i personally use a lil bit of bronze hi temp anti seize on the mounts and pads so that the pads cant get hung up.

mainah

Thanks a lot for the great tips. Took me only 20 minutes per side to complete the job once I knew the tips. This is like a Haynes manual except it talks back. I will deffinatley be checking out more.

BLKFLSH

See, sometimes talking back is a good thing. Glad we could help.

ch0baca

i hope you didn't bleed the brake fluid through the caliper / piston. i did this bc i didnt knwo this stuff and now my caliper is ruined and my rotor is all gashed up and not smooth anymore. the caliper will freeze if you are in freezing temperatures and using the e brake will not release after parked. this will keep the caliper shut closed frozen on your pads and the pads will constantly contact the rotors, resulting in overheating and burning. then rust will occur and you will have to get new caliper / rotors. my brakes are f***'d. =[

ch0baca

actually, it also could've frozen up bc i didn't line up the groove on the caliper piston to the brake pad notch on the middle. this has a lot to do with compression and e brake. i just changed my pads today and did everything properly, and i'd say my brakes and entire car are feeling much more "free" rolling. i really f*d up my last attempt. eek!!! using the m77 paste and lining up groove to tab is key elements my friends...

001

[SIZE="4"]Your info saved me $219 plus tax and shop fees and whatever fees. (Honda dealer was asking that for rear brake replacement service)
I couldn't fiqure out how to push the pistons back so I resorted to making an appointment at Honda. After reading this string, it took me 25 minutes to change both sides. Most of that time was removing and replacing the wheels.
Even the videos on youtube didn't describe "screwing"the pistons back in. This is a design flaw because rear brakes should last twice as long as the fronts. They stop well but I suspect this is a way for honda dealers to make more money. Thanks again!

001

I hope the front brakes are easier, when I do those, next month.

R_ACE1

LMAO, I just posted last night with the same exact problem. Their right , you'll have to turn the piston clockwise to compress it. Make sure you line up the notch on the inboard brake pad with the groves on the piston. Also, (for my 05 HAH) check your parking brake adjustment after you swap out the rear pads. A very easy job.

DAMN JAPANESE WITH THEIR SECRETS........ HA HA

FishyMan

You run a big risk, by opening your caliper and hitting it.

Your supposed to turn the piston back in w/ that special tool. You should bleed your car, and check to see if your brakes are uneven. They should be even normally.

I normally do both sides @ once.

hometheaterman

Yea on the rears you turn them and push them in. Sounds like you got it now but for future reference they sell a tool at Advance Auto that goes on a ratchet for this job. Makes it super easy and the tool is pretty cheap. I'm thinking under $20.