7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
07-11-2010, 09:19 PM
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7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
My alt is dieing in my 05 Accord SE V6 and I need to replace; obviously I'd like to put something in the car that won't die anytime soon and keep the electronics in good shape.
I noticed an 06 Honda Ridgeline has a 130A Alternator with the same bolt positioning, connector, and nearly the same spacing for the ground as the 110A in the car now; has anyone here every swapped one in?
Is there anything that could go horribly wrong if I swap these?
I noticed an 06 Honda Ridgeline has a 130A Alternator with the same bolt positioning, connector, and nearly the same spacing for the ground as the 110A in the car now; has anyone here every swapped one in?
Is there anything that could go horribly wrong if I swap these?
07-12-2010, 03:15 PM
#2
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Re: 7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
My guess is you have the Delphi alternator. I'm pretty sure you could swap it out for the Denso, and that would be an upgrade IMO. Denso alternators are not cheap though.
07-12-2010, 07:30 PM
#3
Re: 7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
just get an oem replacement . why go through the hassle. Have you confirmed 100% its the ALT? I have 140k on my Accord and no issues.
07-17-2010, 10:40 AM
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Re: 7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
Alt+Battery replaced, car runs great.
Went to napa and blew $220 on a 130A Bosch reman; trans shifts MUCH better now.
After talking with some mechanics they all agree the 130A Ridgeline alternator would work OK in an accord V6; the only real difference is the location of the negative terminal. After doing the replacement myself I can confirm it'd work ok. If you hit autozone and check their listings you'll see the pictures show everything is the same and after going to the local autozone hub store and seeing them side by side you'll see how similar they are.
Went to napa and blew $220 on a 130A Bosch reman; trans shifts MUCH better now.
After talking with some mechanics they all agree the 130A Ridgeline alternator would work OK in an accord V6; the only real difference is the location of the negative terminal. After doing the replacement myself I can confirm it'd work ok. If you hit autozone and check their listings you'll see the pictures show everything is the same and after going to the local autozone hub store and seeing them side by side you'll see how similar they are.
07-17-2010, 02:07 PM
#5
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Re: 7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
Alt+Battery replaced, car runs great.
Went to napa and blew $220 on a 130A Bosch reman; trans shifts MUCH better now.
After talking with some mechanics they all agree the 130A Ridgeline alternator would work OK in an accord V6; the only real difference is the location of the negative terminal. After doing the replacement myself I can confirm it'd work ok. If you hit autozone and check their listings you'll see the pictures show everything is the same and after going to the local autozone hub store and seeing them side by side you'll see how similar they are.
Went to napa and blew $220 on a 130A Bosch reman; trans shifts MUCH better now.
After talking with some mechanics they all agree the 130A Ridgeline alternator would work OK in an accord V6; the only real difference is the location of the negative terminal. After doing the replacement myself I can confirm it'd work ok. If you hit autozone and check their listings you'll see the pictures show everything is the same and after going to the local autozone hub store and seeing them side by side you'll see how similar they are.
07-18-2010, 04:00 PM
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Re: 7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
On Honda's, everything.
Normally a Valve Body within the transmission handles all the upshifts and downshifts, however ever since the 80's honda has included solenoids to actuate the fluid passageways and on newer models, integrated them directly into the servo's. The idea is to keep the engine under 2000RPM by allowing the ECM/TCM To control shifting which saves gas and wear. This is where your various dynamic shift points come from and the reason you can "manually" downshift the trans when you let off the pedal a little during hard acceleration and also the reason why when braking you can let up off of the brake pedal and the car will upshift accordingly; one of the tricks you can use to make the trans last longer is to make sure you are not braking during shifts by letting up off the brake pedal slightly as it's about to downshift; this increases pressure during the shift and helps the shift happen faster, thus less clutchpack wear. If the solenoids don't have enough juice they actuate slowly adding wear to the clutchpacks and burning the fluid.
Additionally, the torque converter lockup on nearly every Honda build since the 80's has been actuated by a solenoid which, if it doesn't get enough power, won't lock up correctly and may miss.
I can floor it now and the TCC locks up correctly and doesn't miss and the car shifts a fair bit quicker. The fluid in my car is old (slightly dark reddish) so the next thing, after brake pads, is to have the dealer flush it with a new filter for the 60k checkup.
Just did the oil today and boy she's happy to have it.
Normally a Valve Body within the transmission handles all the upshifts and downshifts, however ever since the 80's honda has included solenoids to actuate the fluid passageways and on newer models, integrated them directly into the servo's. The idea is to keep the engine under 2000RPM by allowing the ECM/TCM To control shifting which saves gas and wear. This is where your various dynamic shift points come from and the reason you can "manually" downshift the trans when you let off the pedal a little during hard acceleration and also the reason why when braking you can let up off of the brake pedal and the car will upshift accordingly; one of the tricks you can use to make the trans last longer is to make sure you are not braking during shifts by letting up off the brake pedal slightly as it's about to downshift; this increases pressure during the shift and helps the shift happen faster, thus less clutchpack wear. If the solenoids don't have enough juice they actuate slowly adding wear to the clutchpacks and burning the fluid.
Additionally, the torque converter lockup on nearly every Honda build since the 80's has been actuated by a solenoid which, if it doesn't get enough power, won't lock up correctly and may miss.
I can floor it now and the TCC locks up correctly and doesn't miss and the car shifts a fair bit quicker. The fluid in my car is old (slightly dark reddish) so the next thing, after brake pads, is to have the dealer flush it with a new filter for the 60k checkup.
Just did the oil today and boy she's happy to have it.
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07-27-2010, 05:38 PM
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Re: 7th Gen Accord V6 OEM alternator upgrade
On Honda's, everything.
Normally a Valve Body within the transmission handles all the upshifts and downshifts, however ever since the 80's honda has included solenoids to actuate the fluid passageways and on newer models, integrated them directly into the servo's. The idea is to keep the engine under 2000RPM by allowing the ECM/TCM To control shifting which saves gas and wear. This is where your various dynamic shift points come from and the reason you can "manually" downshift the trans when you let off the pedal a little during hard acceleration and also the reason why when braking you can let up off of the brake pedal and the car will upshift accordingly; one of the tricks you can use to make the trans last longer is to make sure you are not braking during shifts by letting up off the brake pedal slightly as it's about to downshift; this increases pressure during the shift and helps the shift happen faster, thus less clutchpack wear. If the solenoids don't have enough juice they actuate slowly adding wear to the clutchpacks and burning the fluid.
Additionally, the torque converter lockup on nearly every Honda build since the 80's has been actuated by a solenoid which, if it doesn't get enough power, won't lock up correctly and may miss.
I can floor it now and the TCC locks up correctly and doesn't miss and the car shifts a fair bit quicker. The fluid in my car is old (slightly dark reddish) so the next thing, after brake pads, is to have the dealer flush it with a new filter for the 60k checkup.
Just did the oil today and boy she's happy to have it.
Normally a Valve Body within the transmission handles all the upshifts and downshifts, however ever since the 80's honda has included solenoids to actuate the fluid passageways and on newer models, integrated them directly into the servo's. The idea is to keep the engine under 2000RPM by allowing the ECM/TCM To control shifting which saves gas and wear. This is where your various dynamic shift points come from and the reason you can "manually" downshift the trans when you let off the pedal a little during hard acceleration and also the reason why when braking you can let up off of the brake pedal and the car will upshift accordingly; one of the tricks you can use to make the trans last longer is to make sure you are not braking during shifts by letting up off the brake pedal slightly as it's about to downshift; this increases pressure during the shift and helps the shift happen faster, thus less clutchpack wear. If the solenoids don't have enough juice they actuate slowly adding wear to the clutchpacks and burning the fluid.
Additionally, the torque converter lockup on nearly every Honda build since the 80's has been actuated by a solenoid which, if it doesn't get enough power, won't lock up correctly and may miss.
I can floor it now and the TCC locks up correctly and doesn't miss and the car shifts a fair bit quicker. The fluid in my car is old (slightly dark reddish) so the next thing, after brake pads, is to have the dealer flush it with a new filter for the 60k checkup.
Just did the oil today and boy she's happy to have it.
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