Blaze511

Hey guys (girls too!),

Ok, short story...driving car and about 40 mph the front tires locked up, squealed. No grinding in the Transmission was heard. NOW...reverse does not engage, car goes forward in N, and D1-D4 but stays in first gear; in park, engine won't rev above 2500 rpm's (guessing this is the failsafe/VSA engine limiter). If nearing second gear, the car bunnyhops. Have not pulled codes yet because Auto Parts stores don't rent the OBD2 scanner anymore...I'm in AZ, can only imagine they stopped because wrench monkeys were complaining about lack of business.

A bit of history, for a year and a half, especially in hot weather the VSA would light infrequently and the engine power would be gone...pretty bad when turning left to beat oncoming traffic. Restart the engine would clear this. The transmission appeared to rev and catch when shifting from 2-3 and would feel sputtery on the freeway at a steady speed 60-65. Putting the cruise control on made it smooth.

Trans fluid is good and level, religiously changed.

A previous code showed EVAP shunt valve so I tried clearing all that out, but did not correct. Mechanic says engine mounts are bad also.

I realize not much advice can be given until I get codes, but I need reassurance that the tranny does NOT need to be replaced! I can replace solenoids and do Emissions checks, have all the tools. car is VERY well maintained ( I think) and has 244K miles.

Thanks for input.

Blaze511

Ok, a quick update. Honda Dealer repair "diagnosed" the vehicle for 2 days and came back with "Internal Transmission Failure" and "you need a NEW transmission" Would not tell me specifically what they found nor reveal any codes. Advised they will call me back Monday with "options"; says he will speak to a Factory Rep about what they can do for me. (probably try to sell me a new car)

So, now....should I buy a used tranny and swap it out and rebuild the broken one myself..(cheaper cost) and throw it back in when the used tranny fails?

Or, should I buy a rebuilt upfront...turning in mine for the core?

Thoughts??

GoLowDrew

Let me guess, you got a V6 right?

Anyhow, wait to hear what they have to say. I friend of mine got their AT replaced free of charge (not sure if they paid labor) on their Odyssey. They call it a goodwill repair. Others may be offered 1/2 the cost.

I would take whatever deal they offer, if any.

The "old" 2 shaft version of the AT have known issues when the car gets old. Honda knows this, so sometimes they are nice.

If they don't offer any deal, then it's up to you.

From what I read or heard, Honda just call it failure and suggest replacement.

Keep us posted on what they say.

Blaze511

Hey again,

So Honda Dealership in my area informs me that..due to the high-mileage (244K), Honda will not offer any assistance in the repair/replacement of my transmission. Quoted me $5100 out the door to repair the transmission. Well, I practically fell over with laughter. I said "...Well, I could put a nice downpayment on a NISSAN for that!!..."

I would think Honda would be happy that they had..HAD --HADDD a happy customer with a car that was this reliable for 244,000 miles...and would return to purchase a newer model in the near future...HAD they offered something a bit more pleasing to the palate!

Thank you Honda for making a tough decision easier for me!

GoLowDrew

My examples of goodwill was when an owner got 90K or maybe 100K miles.

Gearspeed-Performance

iTrader: (1)

Give us a call we can help you out!

0Steve@Spreen

Tires locked up at speed....I am going with catastrophic trans failure. Your options depend on what your plans are with the car. Keep it, trade it in soon?If you're planning on keeping it for awhile, talk with your local dealer, see if they have an alternative to the factory rebuilt transmission. We offer both factory and H & A (Gear Speed is the manual trans division of H&A). If you have the ability to do the swap yourself, then you can save big on the labor. If you're planning on dumping it, then put in a used trans and call it a day.
Good luck (call Gear Speed for more info on the H&A transmissions)

KWayRacing

244k and you are complaining---- really? How reliable do you want a product? F-in amazes me.

BLKFLSH

If my transmission lasts 244k miles, I'll be satisfied with that, and probably buy a new Accord. It seems like just because people own a Honda they expect it to last forever, and never need any repairs. I hope you don't think a Nissan will do any better.

Blaze511

Well, I suppose my BIGGEST complaint was that at 244,000 miles, the Service Manager's answer was "You need a new Transmission" which I anticipated...but quoting me $5100 at his dealership, but another dealership says $3800???

So, Anyways...a mechanic I know at another Honda Dealership told me the code is P0741, which I own a Service Manual and that says Torque Converter lock-up solenoid stuck. So I will follow the troubleshooting and replace the solenoid and go from there. I will be swapping the transmission with a used one and rebuilding the broke one myself over the next few months. I have the tools, ability and manuals to do this.

And for 244K...the way I drove that Accord...I am VERY pleased with it's reliability....it was the approach by the S.A. that chapped me!

Blaze511

Just a quick update on the 'new weekend project'.

Pulled the transmission out of the car and in the garage now, fully disassembled. Cleaning all of the parts, rebuilding the transmission myself.

Upon disassembly, the 3rd/4th clutch guide housing appeared very burned and the clutches/steels within seem fused together. All the gears and bearings appear to be in great shape! Specs for clearances all look good.

Any suggestions on a good and RELIABLE rebuild kit. Going with sonnax aftermarket valve.

Will post pictures soon!

Blaze511

Strange, but the preious post should have read "...1st/2nd clutch guide housing appeared very burned and the clutches/steels/plates within are fused/melted together..."

Will be replacing the 1st clutch piston, clutch piston also as they are both scored and chewed up.

I have researched rebuild kits, but found none as to the specifics of the friction type. I PREFER Raybestos frictions, but can't find a rebuild kit that specifies OEM or Raybestos frictions.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

ILOVEGIRLS

Dont forget to change the rear main seal whike the transmission is out. Good luck.

Blaze511

Some photos

DELuth

+1

ThunderToe

iTrader: (1)

You're wanting to trade your Honda off for a nissan because of trans failure after a quarter of a million miles. I work at a Nissan dealership, you would be amazed at how many transmissions we replace a month on Nissan vehicles, the majority with very low miles. I bet you not nearly as much as Honda replaces. What I'm trying to say is, keep a Honda.

Blaze511

It was a facetious statement...

ThunderToe

iTrader: (1)

Well. That makes more sense.

Almighty-Si

Good luck rebuilding that trans. We get people at our dealership all the time who have transmission problems and are amazed when we tell them they need a transmission after they "just had it rebuilt at a transmission shop a couple months ago".

$5100 is excessive, $3800 seems about right. You also have to remember in this price a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty is included. It will also more than likely qualify for "goodwill" repair if it breaks not too long after warranty expires.

Blaze511

Yes, and doing myself I can ensure it is gone over carefully...so one thing I notice is in the 4th/5th clutch drum, there were 5 steels/clutches measuring .063 in thickness. The Service manual calls for 4 steels/clutches at .079 thickness. Did I miss some update?? Service advisor had NO CLUE what i was talking about even after explaining it to him. Either way, the difference in the thickness is .001, which I don't think is critical, but has anyone heard of some update in the BAYA Transmissions?

Starangely, the Torque Converter is calling for a replacement match from an odyssey, and many clutches refer to Odyssey part #'s, the Accord's are different.

Blaze511

Correction, the STEELS measured .063

DELuth

Different specs for different year models

'03-'04 = .091
'05 = .079
'06-'07 = .063

DELuth

Clutch disc thickness
1.94 mm (0.076 in.)
---

Clutch plate thickness
1st, 2nd
1.6 mm (0.063 in.)
When discolored

3rd, 4th ('03-04 models)
2.3 mm (0.091 in.)
When discolored

4th ('05 model)
2.0 mm (0.079 in.)
When discolored

4th ('06-07 models)
1.6 mm (0.063 in.)
When discolored

5th ('03-05 models)
2.0 mm (0.079 in.)
When discolored

5th ('06-07 models)
1.6 mm (0.063 in.)
When discolored

1st-hold
1.8 mm (0.071 in.)
When discolored

Blaze511

Ok, cool. So mine is a 2006. The dealership says it doesn't matter if I put in 4 steels at .079 or the 5 steels at .063, which is what came out of it due to the fact that the end difference is .001. So, will it matter mechanically with 4 steels/clutches or 5 steels/clutches?

Accordman1

If my car lasts 244K miles with only an AT transmission failure, I would really be happy. These AT do not last forever, they will have to be replaced or rebuilt because they just worn out, no matter what car brands. Most AT would have to be serviced at much lower 150K miles. Even the manual tranny will require clutch service at about the same mileage. Given you live in the desert, the high heat does not help either but you got more mileage than an average driver can bargain for. Your best bet is really shop around for a rebuilt unit or used one. It does not make sense to put in a new unit as I am not sure your car will last much longer. Just get a used unit from the salvage yard and put on your car. Otherwise, use that $5100 for a new car down payment.