SIRCOOKS

Guys please view the attachment! I have had this problem for some time now, and cant figure out why?

I have purchased an obdII scanner, and found no problems coming up with the abs or tcs? I have ever found this helpful page on this site, which will help me clean my abs sensor. (https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-%2A%2A%2A-check-clean-your-rear-abs-wheel-sensor-2205909/) I am wondering how easy it would be for me just to switch out the abs modulator, and what i should be cognisant of when buying one. I found this one on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...AMESINDXX%3AIT or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...AMESINDXX%3AIT)

What can i do turn the brake light switch off? My cousin has an 07 and his own does the same thing, with both the abs and tcs, thats why im wondering, if i just change the modulator, how hard would it be and would it work?

SIRCOOKS

sorry, im not allowed to post attachments yet!!!1

SIRCOOKS

Just uploaded the pic guys...........please tell me what i should do, and if changing the abs modulator would be the right thing to do!!!

redbull-1

Many regular OBD II scanner do not have the capability to read ABS trouble codes. Go to a shop that can properly scan for any ABS trouble codes first, even if you have to pay a fee. It would be better than just changing a part ($) without even knowing what may be the problem.

SIRCOOKS

Where are the rear abs sensors located in the vehicle? Is it in the trunk under the mat? I have located the front two, in the hood, and am just gonna change these after i am able to clean all the sensors first!!!

SIRCOOKS

Aiight guys, i went to my local Honda dealer today, and they gave me a free diagnostic run...here is what my computer is spitting out..
61-1 - Battery Voltage Malfunction
83-1 - ecm/pcm Relation failure
121-1 - RF TCS NORMALLY OPEN SOL VALVE failure
112-1 - internal power source failure

Any one can tell me what i need to do next, after seeing these codes? I think i need to replace my r/f abs sensor...am i right? I would also like the rest of those lights off, what else do i need to do???????

Hope to hear from the experst soon.

Stuff

Fix the battery/charging system issue first as it can cause false alarms for the other stuff.

SIRCOOKS

Which means fix alternator first right? what about the front right abs sensor, does it make sense to change it the same time? Should i also buy a new battery?

Stuff

How old is the battery? Alternators are usually all or nothing. Both can be tested - usually free at a parts store.

Note: Experts not usually on line. Any that do show up get worn out quickly. The dealer is supposed to be the expert but in reality the best is a good independent Honda shop. Lots of informed do-it-yourselfers are on line.

pmktwo

First get the battery checked at an autoparts store.
If it is bad, replace it.
Once you remove it the codes should reset.
Start and drive the car for fifteen minutes to see if the check engine light comes on, if so get another fault check and match up with you old lis.
If you are lucky all is good now and no codes

SIRCOOKS

So you are saying all of these codes may be because the battery is running down? As well as the lights on the dash?

SIRCOOKS

After evaluating all my options, i have come near to the conclusion that, these lights may be on because of three things,
1. My voltage in my car is to high/low, meaning i need to change the battery
2. I need to change the map sensor, its tripping because of the high/low voltage
3. My front right abs sensor, is not totally working.

See here for a better understanding of the diagnostic codes above (http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...scriptions.pdf)

In my 2004 honda accord ex v6 3.0 where is the map sensor? and what does it do? Can someone please provide me a pic, of where it is, and how easy i can change it

Stuff

ummm... You have a diesel in your Accord? Codes are different.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Map_sensor

SIRCOOKS

?WTF

Stuff

That link is for a Ford diesel truck - not quite the same as a Honda automobile. Also, you are confusing DTC codes and ABS codes. DTC codes usually start with a P. The codes you were given were for the ABS system. Replacing the MAP sensor for ABS trouble is like going to the dentist for a haircut.

Go to this site for the ABS codes:
http://www.wellsve.com/custom_search...y=21&confirm=1

SIRCOOKS

All of these ideas have bought me closer to understanding what my problem is. However, i would like to know a few more things.

What exactly do all those lights individually mean? (i don't need a generic answer, like there is a "fault" in my system)

How do i remove the cluster, in order to remove the actual light bulbs behind those signals?

SIRCOOKS

Update:- My Alternator is on the blitz...i either need a new one or to have the old one rebuilt by a neighborhood store. Only the bearing in the pulley is really gone. Would this add to the problem?

All of these ideas have bought me closer to understanding what my problem is. However, i would like to know a few more things.

What exactly do all those lights individually mean? (i don't need a generic answer, like there is a "fault" in my system)

How do i remove the cluster, in order to remove the actual light bulbs behind those signals?

SIRCOOKS

Can anyone show me a picture of, or the part number of the brake light switch close to the pedal, that i may also need to change? I understand that this might also be an issue because, now that i notice, my full brake tail light section does not come on at the rear of the car when reversing!@!!!

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

ABS fault
VSA off or fault
TCS fault

And do not remove the bulbs, fix the issues to remove the error codes....removing those bulbs is some shady **** - like you're going to try to sell it without the buyer knowing there is a problem.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

If the full brake light and the third brake light comes on when braking then the switch is not your problem.

99blackcivicSi

check pin fit and power and ground @ the abs modulator IF you have power and ground and pin fit is GOOD replace the modulator the 112 61 and 83 code are all likely phantom codes your getting because of the 121 code best guess i have without looking at the vehicle you have a ****ed up wire due to poor pin fitment @ the terminal or a mouse who decided to eat some wires or a bad modulator

enjoy

SIRCOOKS

Sounds interesting, will look at. I know there is a slight crack in the modulator. I will take a picture and post as well!

forbes march

I am having similar issues in my '05 Accord Hyb after miss-wiring a new battery (yup... I did that)
Where is the abs modulator located and is there a specific abs fuse box I may be missing????