OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM.
04-09-2007, 10:40 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM.
well, where do i start. i recently acuired a 89 4 door honda accord (automatic) as my daily driver. the car is in great condition, with an exception of a few, minor discrpencies.
so i figured i would come to the accord forum so the accord gods can bless me with their knowledge.
ok, when i start the car sometimes (when sitting to long and is cold) it's hesitant to start. then once started the engine (always) idles up to about 2k-3k. i let it warm up for alittle bit, once this is done and i'm ready to drive, i place it into reverse or drive and the car jerks, sometimes jerks hard when i'm putting it into reverse.
so i wanted to know, is my idle just too high? can it be adjusted?
is my tranny slipping? or is this the cause of the high idle?
thanks guys
so i figured i would come to the accord forum so the accord gods can bless me with their knowledge.
ok, when i start the car sometimes (when sitting to long and is cold) it's hesitant to start. then once started the engine (always) idles up to about 2k-3k. i let it warm up for alittle bit, once this is done and i'm ready to drive, i place it into reverse or drive and the car jerks, sometimes jerks hard when i'm putting it into reverse.
so i wanted to know, is my idle just too high? can it be adjusted?
is my tranny slipping? or is this the cause of the high idle?
thanks guys
04-10-2007, 09:00 AM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM. (philosofy1)
wow, no one? also i forgot to add, when i start the car the temp gauge hits the normal running temp, but when i start to drive the meter goes down. any clues?
04-10-2007, 02:22 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Re: OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM. (steerh67)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steerh67 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the car fuel injected or no? </TD></TR></TABLE>
it doesn't appear to be fuel injected. i haven't really noticed, i was under the impression that it wasn't, but i could be wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steerh67 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> how are the motor and transmission mounts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the mounts appear to be good. no vibration when i drive, smooth like a cadillac.
it doesn't appear to be fuel injected. i haven't really noticed, i was under the impression that it wasn't, but i could be wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steerh67 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> how are the motor and transmission mounts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the mounts appear to be good. no vibration when i drive, smooth like a cadillac.
04-10-2007, 03:40 PM
#5
Member
Re: OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM. (philosofy1)
If it has LXi on the trunk it is fuel injected, also check to see if it has a sunroof.
If it says LX on the trunk it has a carb, but will have power windows & cruise control.
If it says DX on the trunk, you have to roll the windows down with a crank handle, and cruise control consists of a brick to put on the gas pedal.
If it says LX on the trunk it has a carb, but will have power windows & cruise control.
If it says DX on the trunk, you have to roll the windows down with a crank handle, and cruise control consists of a brick to put on the gas pedal.
04-10-2007, 05:12 PM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM. (hondadude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it has LXi on the trunk it is fuel injected, also check to see if it has a sunroof.
If it says LX on the trunk it has a carb, but will have power windows & cruise control.
If it says DX on the trunk, you have to roll the windows down with a crank handle, and cruise control consists of a brick to put on the gas pedal. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i haven't had the chance to go down stairs and look, but i think it's a lx.
it has power windows, locks, mirrors, steering, cruise control, and a/c (no sunroof).
when i opened the hood, it had a **** load of hoses running to or around the intake side, right under the air filter. they seem to be some type of vaccum hoses?
never seen it before, don't have them on my civic.
If it says LX on the trunk it has a carb, but will have power windows & cruise control.
If it says DX on the trunk, you have to roll the windows down with a crank handle, and cruise control consists of a brick to put on the gas pedal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i haven't had the chance to go down stairs and look, but i think it's a lx.
it has power windows, locks, mirrors, steering, cruise control, and a/c (no sunroof).
when i opened the hood, it had a **** load of hoses running to or around the intake side, right under the air filter. they seem to be some type of vaccum hoses?
never seen it before, don't have them on my civic.
04-10-2007, 05:34 PM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM. (philosofy1)
Sounds like you have an LX, which is carb'd. All those hoses -- vacuum lines. There's a LOT of them. And when one leaks it can cause you all sorts of problems. I always suggest checking all the vacuum lines for leaks first, as they tend to cause a lot of problems on those Accords.
The fast idle (cold idle) on your car should not be reaching 3000 rpms. If memory serves me right, 2000 rpms is the max. Either way, if you're putting it into gear when the rpms are that high, it's going to cause the car to jerk quite a bit. You should be able to blip the throttle just a bit to get it to come down from fast idle. Once the rpms come down you should not have any jerking when you put it in gear.
Check the vacuum lines first and make sure they're not leaking before attempting to adjust the fast idle. I can't remember how to adjust it anymore (it's been a long time since I've even looked at one of those carbs), but even if I did I probably wouldn't be able to desribe where to look. A Haynes or Chilton manual should have the adjustment procedures in it, and you can find either manual at most local auto parts stores for relatively cheap.
There should be a sticker on the underside of the hood displaying the correct idle speeds.
The fast idle (cold idle) on your car should not be reaching 3000 rpms. If memory serves me right, 2000 rpms is the max. Either way, if you're putting it into gear when the rpms are that high, it's going to cause the car to jerk quite a bit. You should be able to blip the throttle just a bit to get it to come down from fast idle. Once the rpms come down you should not have any jerking when you put it in gear.
Check the vacuum lines first and make sure they're not leaking before attempting to adjust the fast idle. I can't remember how to adjust it anymore (it's been a long time since I've even looked at one of those carbs), but even if I did I probably wouldn't be able to desribe where to look. A Haynes or Chilton manual should have the adjustment procedures in it, and you can find either manual at most local auto parts stores for relatively cheap.
There should be a sticker on the underside of the hood displaying the correct idle speeds.
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04-10-2007, 10:19 PM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: OLD TO HONDA-TECH, NEW TO THE ACCORD FORUM. (philadd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you have an LX, which is carb'd. All those hoses -- vacuum lines. There's a LOT of them. And when one leaks it can cause you all sorts of problems. I always suggest checking all the vacuum lines for leaks first, as they tend to cause a lot of problems on those Accords.
The fast idle (cold idle) on your car should not be reaching 3000 rpms. If memory serves me right, 2000 rpms is the max. Either way, if you're putting it into gear when the rpms are that high, it's going to cause the car to jerk quite a bit. You should be able to blip the throttle just a bit to get it to come down from fast idle. Once the rpms come down you should not have any jerking when you put it in gear.
Check the vacuum lines first and make sure they're not leaking before attempting to adjust the fast idle. I can't remember how to adjust it anymore (it's been a long time since I've even looked at one of those carbs), but even if I did I probably wouldn't be able to desribe where to look. A Haynes or Chilton manual should have the adjustment procedures in it, and you can find either manual at most local auto parts stores for relatively cheap.
There should be a sticker on the underside of the hood displaying the correct idle speeds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i kind of figured that i had to adjust the idle. when the car is cold or i'm in park, the idle sits at 2200 rpm. i looked under the hood and it suggests 2500-750 rpm when in park or neutral, so i'm going to have to adjust it.
do you have any suggestions on my temp reading?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when i start the car the temp gauge hits the normal running temp, but when i start to drive the meter goes down. any clues?</TD></TR></TABLE>
is my thermostat bad? i've had thermo's go bad before and the car gets hotter when they are bad. is mine opening to much when i drive?
i also noticed a burning smell, almost like metal, kind of like when a clutch begins burn. i can't really put my finger on it. is this due to the temp reading? or is this common with carb motors? i wouldn't know, i've never had a carb motor before.
The fast idle (cold idle) on your car should not be reaching 3000 rpms. If memory serves me right, 2000 rpms is the max. Either way, if you're putting it into gear when the rpms are that high, it's going to cause the car to jerk quite a bit. You should be able to blip the throttle just a bit to get it to come down from fast idle. Once the rpms come down you should not have any jerking when you put it in gear.
Check the vacuum lines first and make sure they're not leaking before attempting to adjust the fast idle. I can't remember how to adjust it anymore (it's been a long time since I've even looked at one of those carbs), but even if I did I probably wouldn't be able to desribe where to look. A Haynes or Chilton manual should have the adjustment procedures in it, and you can find either manual at most local auto parts stores for relatively cheap.
There should be a sticker on the underside of the hood displaying the correct idle speeds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i kind of figured that i had to adjust the idle. when the car is cold or i'm in park, the idle sits at 2200 rpm. i looked under the hood and it suggests 2500-750 rpm when in park or neutral, so i'm going to have to adjust it.
do you have any suggestions on my temp reading?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when i start the car the temp gauge hits the normal running temp, but when i start to drive the meter goes down. any clues?</TD></TR></TABLE>
is my thermostat bad? i've had thermo's go bad before and the car gets hotter when they are bad. is mine opening to much when i drive?
i also noticed a burning smell, almost like metal, kind of like when a clutch begins burn. i can't really put my finger on it. is this due to the temp reading? or is this common with carb motors? i wouldn't know, i've never had a carb motor before.
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