h22 kid

ok, i have a 96 accord non abs. originally had rear drum brakes then i swapped it out for disc brakes. is it wise to change the brake booster and master cylinder to that of ABS or will just changing out the MC to an ABS one be good enough? i do understand that if i change the MC i will need to flare out one of the brake lines.

nicolaselias

I'm not 100% certain but I cant see you needing to change the brake booster..
My mechanic claims that even if there is some pedal slack, he can just adjust the brake pedal to correspond to it..

I am not sure about the MC.. I was of the impression that you wouldnt use the ABS unless you had ABS

h22 kid

ok, i only ask because many people in civics usually change theirs to a larger MC and i wasnt sure if i should have done the same or just leave it as is.

Balwin

The EX Accord (with ABS) has a 1" diameter master cylinder.

You should also change the prop valve to the integra one since the accord one is useless.

SQ is the SQUAD

get the non abs integra proportion valve. best best it to get it from a 92-93 integra. make sure its marked 40/40 on the side.

if you can get the brake booster free/cheap then do it. make sure the mastercylender is marked 1" on the side.

h22 kid

ok so find me a 1" MC and i should be fine when stopping?

i have a 40/40 prop. valve but would not match up to the lines and i didnt feel like bending or messing with the lines just cause i didnt want to break one.

h22 kid

bump........got a 1 inch. gonna flare out the brake line. only thing now is will i have to adjust the pedal or will it be fine?

GhostAccord

Not sure if you will have to adjust or not. IMO the prop valve would be the most important part of this swap. Specially if you want your brakes to work at their best. It will still work without the 40/40 but it will probably have a tendency to act up under heavy braking in the rear.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Refer to the Helms manual on how to adjust everything. Make sure the booster's plunger is at the correct distances, etc.

nicolaselias

I'm assuming those 40/40 prop valves are directional? Seeing as my car is right hand drive, my brake master cylinder is inverted from yours... ie. the hardlines come on the opposite side, therefore im wondering if one of those valves will work for me

h22 kid

ok thing is i have and lx and the prop valve is way different from the 40/40, will not directly fit. what do i do to make it work thats the thing.
ok will do, what about chilton? i got one of those laying around.
not sure on what to say.

h22 kid

ok so i did some extensive searching and after a while i found that the lx prop valve looks very similar to that of the DA Prop valve. is this the 40/40 everyone was talking about? so if i change that then i can keep my stock MC without upgrading that to a 1in.?

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Chilton would probably work - I have not used one to do it. I used a Helms to replace my BMC awhile back and used it to measure the tolerances.

Thedriver33

Ive done the ex to LX converison on my 95....i just change out all the brakes in the rear, added the EX subframe as well along with the rear sway. swapped cables and drove it....have a new master cyl. on there with no issue, brakes like a champ

nicolaselias

Hi everyone, hate to bring this up again, but in what direction is the prop valve usually mounted on accords? ie. do the brake lines enter it from the drivers side or passengers side of the valve?

I am still trying to figure out if a 40/40 prop valve from a LHD car can work on my RHD without having to flare/extend lines etc..

If anyone can give me more information on this it will be GREATLY appreciated..

Thanks

Balwin

Drivers mounted on the bottom of the driver side strut tower I believe. The thing is tiny.

nicolaselias

Yea, I know its pretty small, I thought it was mounted near the middle of the firewall though..
I'm not by my accord for the next few months (its in a different country) so I have to figure out what parts I'm buying for it...

I guess if the orientation is wrong I can always flare and extend the brake lines to suit but i'm obviously trying to avoid that..

What is the stock prop valve on a 96 accord rear drum? How much of a difference on a rear disc swap will the 40/40 prop valve make?

Balwin

the integra 40/40 makes a huge difference I hear. Right now with the prop valve on these cars, the braking bias is probably 75%F and 25% rear.

uberEFtuner

I installed a 40/40 upsidedown in my 93 Accord. That way the lines fit and its working great

nicolaselias

uber, I actually thought about an upside down install but I figured it would then distribute the braking force in the reverse proportions... ie more to rear than front??

How did you get it to fit upside down? Do you have a picture of it by chance? I will greatly appreciate it if you can..
Where is the prop valve located on your install?

Thanks

uberEFtuner

The 40/40 valve it installed into the stock location on the drivers side wheel well area. Its a tight fit, and its not bolt down to anything. This is the way the valve works: the input is split each input splits a front and rear. So flipping it upside down doesn't matter! Cool


Input front left

right rear


Input front right

left rear

nicolaselias

Thanks for the help, thats good news there.. Means that I shouldnt have too much trouble getting it to fit hopefully...

Now just to pick up one in good condition and keep acquiring parts from there..

So far, I spent $44 on Stoptech street performance pads for the rear
Probably gonna spend about $50 on a 40/40
Brembo blank rotors for the rear will be about $75
New stainless lines for the rear to replace my drum line, about $70
Finally, the junkyard parts I need to make the swap itself happen will cost me about ~$150-$200

Its not a cheap swap in my case, but it should be worth it because I feel like my fronts are doing disproportionately too much compared to the rear right now , possibly as a result of the upgraded pads, rotors etc on the front and stock drums in the back

nus_dogg

I have a DA 40/40 prop valve that I bought many months back, because I plan on deleting my ABS module to clean up my engine bay a bit and that it didn't work anymore. Still have to do this in the near future when I have the money and time.

nicolaselias

How much did you pay for your 40/40 nus? I'm trying to get a feel for what they are worth so that I won't be overpaying..

So pretty much the 40/40 is the key to a drum to disc conversion.. without it there will not be enough fluid going rearwards to really justify the discs..

nus_dogg

IIRC, I paid somewhere around like $30.00 bucks or so? It was like early last year when I got it.